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 on: August 29, 2015, 09:28:01 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Carol
I 100% agree.
Despite leaky water connections and a TV that was totally unsecured on one side, I've given PC the benefit of the doubt.  But I've also wondered, at times, just what their final quality control process is, especially when I see other postings about problems that should have been avoidable.  I still think they are a high quality manufacturer--especially compared to many others--and their after-sales support is tremendous.  But I'd rather see things come out right the first time.  Consistently.

 on: August 29, 2015, 07:12:47 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Joseph
Many of these items may seem insignificant however it really shows a lack of Quality control at the factory. I E  I thought the antennae on my rig was a joke, it never made a difference which way I turned it. I simply figured it was the nature of the antennae . On my last outing I saw that the cable and boot had come out of the antennae base and was laying loose on top of the rv. I removed the Antennae to find the
cable that should be connect to it laying inside with a cut blunt end. It had never been connected from Day one. Its not a huge deal but it  shows a lack of quality control. These kind of things can hurt a manufacturer and they need to address it. For that matter mine is a 2011 and they very well may have addressed these kind of issues already.

 on: August 29, 2015, 05:00:35 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Joseph
Dickreid.. I use a slightly different method. I fill up the tank and drive till I need more gas and repeat.   Cheers

 on: August 29, 2015, 02:00:33 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by dickreid1
Ok everybody, time to cover what was not covered related to driving for mpg.

First, turning off your injectors.  Injectors squirt fuel as needed. One for each cylinder.  When, at speed, you take your foot the accelerator, fuel is no longer needed, the injectors tun off. The engine continues to turn which gradually slows the mph.  This is the way to get "free mpg" as you approach a stop or go downhill.

Second. There is an injector technique that can be used in long rolling hills which I think of as "driving above the average mpg (Scangauge)".  I find that rather than taking my foot off the gas to turn off the injectors, I can accelerate while driving downhill and still drive considerably "above the average mpg". 

For example, the Scangauge shows the average mpg so far is 9.0 mpg.  Rather than taking my foot off the gas to get "free mpg" on the next hill, I give just a little gas to hold at maybe 20 mpg and also accelerate to get a run at the next hill.

The result is that the speed build-up carries me farther up the next hill before a downshift occurs and the average mpg slowly but steadily gets better.  This is more effective than just taking your foot off the gas on big hiils... and more interesting. Eventually, I catch up to the average mpg and cannot improve but only maintain the highest mpg.  From this I determine the true mpg of the engine under those conditions with that specific gas.

Finally, I note that the mpg can be as much as 1 mpg higher or lower than normal with some gas.  Ethanol free gas seems to do better a little more frequently.

 on: August 28, 2015, 11:08:57 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Joseph
jfcaramagno ......The engine downshifting,, (Engine braking as its called) doe not use gas. Engine braking uses the drive train to slow the vehicle to the selected speed, not fuel. Adding fuel will increase engine speed not decrease. Electronically controlled fuel systems shut down the fuel unlike the carburetors of yesteryear so in reality your actually using less fuel than coasting with the engine idling down the hill although the amount of fuel is not significant..   Also the v10 is designed as a high revving engine so your doing no damage.  Its doing as it was designed to.  What you are doing is saving on over heating your brake pads if your slowing using your brakes compared to the engine assisting in the braking.

However if your goal is to coast to a higher speed going down one grade to make headway on the next upgrade then there is that advantage.

 on: August 27, 2015, 01:56:59 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Doneworking
Here is the use for the Bypass copied and pasted from the manual.  Essentially, as I understand it, it simply allows the gray to run out by gravity.  "Dripping Gray" is acceptable in some National Forests and BLM lands in the West.  I have had forest officials tell me out there that it is helpful because of the drought.  It also allows you to drain your gray tank without running the pump.  

Using the Gray Water Bypass

Caution: To avoid the risk or the
pump running dry, do NOT turn
the pump on to use the gray water
bypass, as the gray water bypass
relies on gravity.
1. Make sure that the black and gray
water RV dump valves are closed.

2. Point the nozzle upward and remove
the nozzle cap.

3. Insert the nozzle into the sewer
connection and give it a half-turn to
lock the nozzle into the connection.
Note: The nozzle has a 4 in. (10.2 cm)
and a 3 in. (7.6 cm) threaded
section that adapts to 4 in.
(10.2 cm) and 3 in. (7.6 cm)
threaded sewer pipes.
Note: If the sewer pipe is non-threaded,
use the tapered press-fit section
on the nozzle to connect to the

4. Open the gray water valve to let the
gray water drain into the sewer.

Obviously, with the kink many are experiencing she be a no-go until the kink is removed.  I carry a 15 foot garden hose (called a "remnant hose at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) and hook it up the standard "emergency drain" on my rig.  In case a kernel of corn or something goes down the sink, I suspect that little bypass tubing on the pump might be vulnerable to being clogged.  Works good for me on this and previous units.

MODIFICATION:  I posted this seconds after TomHanlon made the same post.  Sorry for the same info twice.


 on: August 27, 2015, 01:56:42 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by TomHanlon
My understanding is the hose just bypasses the pump. If you open the gray valve with the hose connected to the sewer hole the gray will just run out and bypassing the pump. This will keep the gray tank from filling up with out running the pump. You can leave it this way for days if you are staying in one place.

To equalize the two tanks, just open the gray valve and then the black tank. The pump has nothing to do with this procedure. Or you can hook up a 3" hose to the back hole, open the valve by it and open the gray valve.

 on: August 27, 2015, 12:51:52 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by JOVIC
Hi Mike,
That short piece of clear plastic tubing is to bypass grey water into the black tank by gravity. You might use this feature when you are dry camping and you run out of capacity in the gray tank with no place to dump so you can let the grey water feed over into the black tank through the little hose to you give you more time to use  your grey tank before dumping. I have not used this feature but in looking at my own bypass it would not have worked anyway due to the kink.
I think Sanicon can provide directions on the best use of this function.
Hope this helps.  Help

 on: August 27, 2015, 11:38:39 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
An analogy of the vacuum on the drain hose is like what happens to liquid in a straw when you put your finger over one end and the liquid no longer flows out of the other end.  You break the vacuum by letting some air into the system.

 on: August 27, 2015, 11:27:04 am 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
The Tow/Haul mode is activated by pressing the button on the end of the gearshift lever.
We always tow our Honda CR-V, but only use this mode for engine breaking on downhills or to come to a slowdown or stop quickly.
The Ford owner's manual contains a section under Transmission.

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