Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
 21 
 on: August 20, 2014, 01:28:25 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Carol
I am far from an expert on anything, but just passing along that when I picked up my PC in early July, Earl said that even if I saw the 85 octane out there, that I must not use it.  He said to stick with 90 percent octane.  I didn't ask why, since I probably wouldn't understand the answer anyhow.

 22 
 on: August 20, 2014, 01:15:13 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by dickreid1
Last summer I commented to the group about encountering 85 Octane "regular gas" at Cody, WY.  My feeling then was that this was a marketing gimmick to increase profit.

This summer driving coast to coast I encountered both 85 octane in the mountains and 86 octane gas in high altitude areas.   Curious, I found the following in Wikipedia so I guess this gas is legitimate.

"United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. In the Rocky Mountain (high elevation) states, 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel.[38] The reason for this is that in higher-elevation areas, a typical naturally aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle because of the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to less fuel and reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill a carbureted car that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage..."

Because my mpg was lower this summer and the engine lugged on hills and downshifted more than usual when using this gas, the following is of interest:

"Many modern engines are equipped with a knock sensor (a small piezoelectric microphone), which sends a signal to the engine control unit, which in turn retards the ignition timing when detonation is detected. Retarding the ignition timing reduces the tendency of the fuel-air mixture to detonate, but also reduces power output and fuel efficiency. Because of this, under conditions of high load and high temperature, a given engine may have a more consistent power output with a higher octane fuel, as such fuels are less prone to detonation."

 23 
 on: August 20, 2014, 01:14:45 pm 
Started by Carol - Last post by Carol
Posting this just in case there are any electricity gurus out there who might have insight into an extraordinarily odd problem going on with my electrical system (cab, not house).  So far, Kermit from PC, the towing people, the RV shop, and the Ford technicians that I've spoken to on the phone have all been flummoxed by what my vehicle is doing.  To a person, they say they have never heard of anything like this.

After being parked for a few hours while I was visiting a friend, I entered the vehicle and heard the headlight-on beeping sound...  I went up front and the instrument panel lights were all blinking randomly (brights, turn-signals, anti-theft light, etc.)... even the radio would turn on by itself.  On the outside, the headlights were on, and the turn signals were randomly going on and off.  If we turned the headlights on, they actually would turn off, and vise versa.  When I tried to crank the engine, I got absolutely nothing.  Except the first tow-guy had success when he tried to crank the engine at the same time as turning the headlight switch on, then it did crank right up.  But that only worked a couple of times.

The RV shop disconnected half of the circuit board and got the engine to crank fine.  But driving it that way would mean having no lights or blinkers.  Plus, when I actually did try to drive it (they wanted me to go elsewhere because the problem was too hard for them), it turned out that the parking brake light was on, so it refused to come out of park.  If you reconnect those fuses so that the vehicle can be moved, then you end up going down the road with all the lights and blinkers going on and off all crazy-like.  Hardly legal or wise.

It is being towed today to a Ford dealership that will run diagnostics on it and hopefully locate and kill the gremlins, but they can't look at it for a week.

Guess I am posting this just in case anyone out there has had a similar experience or is knowledgable enough to give me some useful tips or ideas as I talk to technicians and repair people.

Good news is my doggie and I were visiting a friend when this happened and we are safe and sound as a guest in their home while our house-on-wheels is being exorcized.

 24 
 on: August 20, 2014, 12:55:27 pm 
Started by AMW - Last post by AMW
Barry, nicely done.  My coach door is in the rear but the pantry cabinet is right there and already has a tall space for the trash can on the bottom, so you have given me the idea to put one there...maybe two, both the ABC and the CO2.  So, only one more to figure out.  Since I will rarely have a passenger, I'd like to have one in front of the passenger seat, reachable from the outside through the passenger cab door.
Ron, for some reason there was no extinguisher in my vehicle from PC, but the ones manufacturers supply are usually very small.  I have always had multiple extinguishers in every vehicle, with the goal of fast accessibility from inside and outside, at each door, and each corner of the unit if possible...and they are about 17" tall, 7" diameter, so I do have to sacrifice space for them.  My 3 CO2 units rate 5 sqft coverage each, and my 2 ABC units rate 10 sqft coverage each.  That seems like barely enough to me, and I was thinking of adding a third ABC unit and maybe increasing all the sizes.  I guess I'm just paranoid, but with all the fuel, engine, generator, LP hot water/furnace/refrig, and electrical running through the paper walls everywhere...an RV seems very high fire hazard to me.

 25 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:30:15 am 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Pax
We've never been here, but this place was recommended more than once to us.

Liberty Harbor Marina and RV Park
Jersey City, NJ
http://www.libertyharborrv.com/

The views look amazing and appears to be a great location for side trips to NYC.

    - Mike

 26 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:18:46 am 
Started by AMW - Last post by ron.dittmer
We have one right where PC-USA mounted it against the kitchen cabinet by the main entry door.  It seems ideal for both inside and outside coverage, and has never been in our way.  I never considered additional extinguishers, but if I did get a second one, I think I would mount it in the outdoor rear storage compartment, a place to get to if the inside is too filled with smoke.  It is also located opposite the engine area.

 27 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:15:24 am 
Started by BarbRN - Last post by ColoRockiesFan
Photos??

 28 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:12:10 am 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Barry-Sue
Our plans have changed for our upcoming trip and we are now headed to DC and then Delaware/New Jersey.  Looking for suggestions on campgrounds in either Delaware or New Jersey.  We'll be staying at Cherry Hill in College Park and then heading out after Labor Day.

Sue

 29 
 on: August 20, 2014, 11:06:48 am 
Started by Sparky - Last post by ron.dittmer
Like you say Sparky, unpainted rigs have a collection of raw plastic parts & trim that yellows from sun exposure.

I had wondered if our rig was unpainted with yellowed components, I might consider having the entire rig painted, even if only plain white.  But that provides opportunity for something more extravagant.  Taking the rig to just anywhere can cost a fortune, but the factory might be able to bring the cost down to consideration.

 30 
 on: August 20, 2014, 10:51:26 am 
Started by Sparky - Last post by TomHanlon
Several years ago when I had a white Chinook I read about a purple spray. I think it was called purple power but not sure anymore. I got it in the auto section of the store. Sprayed it on the yellow, waited a few seconds and wiped it off. I did that a couple of times and it was back to white. Then I sprayed on Protect all.  You might want to try this before going to all the work of sanding and painting. If it doesn't work, then paint.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10