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 on: April 17, 2015, 12:42:27 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
Our 8 year old Sanicon macerator pump failed due to a broken bolt getting lodged inside which damaged the grinder and also broke off a couple of internal black plastic impeller blades.
Notice one of the 4 bolts is missing.  It is placed on the side.

I priced a new Sanicon pump.  Phoenix and Thetford sell them for around $450.  I did find someone else selling one for $379.

On Ebay, a number of sellers offer a Seaflo pump that is a very close copy to my Sanicon.  They cost around $58 including shipping.
Don't get confused as I was at first.  The pictures on Ebay here shows the Seaflo pipe flanges with large lips that appear as stubby stops.  Those are just protective rubber shipping caps.

With the protective shipping caps removed, the pump looks like this.

I bought a Seaflo pump for $58 and it arrived just 3 days later.  Here are my old Sanicon and new Seaflo pumps side by side for comparison.

I disassembled both pumps to find the inlet components to be an identical match.  Since my old inlet was still in perfect condition, I reused it.

If you determine that your original Sanicon inlet component is damaged, you can easily saw the extra plastic off the new one to create a very close working copy.

For the curious, here are the two grinders.  The new Seaflow blades resemble a kitchen blender.  One Sanicon blade is folded over, damaged from grinding the broken bolt.  Both types are very strong, bendable only with good plyers.  The Seaflow blades have a sharp edge on them for effective grinding.  The Sanicon blades might have been sharp some time ago, but are surely dull 8 years later.

The new Seaflo pump did not have a screwdriver feature as did the Sanicon for freeing up a jammed pump, but upon opening it, it did have a slot in the end of the motor shaft so I drilled a 3/8" hole in the end cap to access the slot, just like the original Sanicon.

Limited water will get inside through the screwdriver hole in both pumps, so a weep hole in the bottom of the motor case becomes critical.  The two holes from the screws of the new pump stand make a great pair of weep holes.

I intentionally drilled the screwdriver hole in my new pump smaller to reduce water potential and offer a nice surface for a stick-on pad to seal the opening.

Not Shown: When done, I capped the hole with a nice stick-on-pad to protect the inside of the motor.

Water did get inside and damage my old Sanicon bearings.  They spin as noisy as old roller skates.

I assembled the Sanicon inlet component to the Seaflow pump for a perfect replacement at a fraction of the cost.
To further demonstrate component-compatibility, I assembled the leftover parts on the original Sanicon pump.

The Seaflo pump came with a mounting stand but I determined it best NOT to use it.  The holes from the stand screws make great weep holes.


Now for the Tips & Tricks.

I had to disassemble everything to determine compatibility and such.  But that is now learned.  I recommend you DO NOT disassemble anything at all with the new pump.  Simply cut off the inlet nozzle to resemble the Sanicon, and drill the hole on the opposite end for the screw driver.  Use common sense and care when drilling and cutting.  The most important thing to watch out for would be plastic debris getting inside the pump.  While cutting and drilling, I advise to setup yourself with a vacuum cleaner over the inlet and in the work area around the screw driver hole.  Once done, continue vacuuming anything that might have fallen inside.

I suggest this because it is tricky to reassemble an opened pump.  The 3 sections (motor, pump, and grinder), plates and gaskets all need to be in perfect alignment when assembling.  Just behind the grinder plate, there is an odd shaped plate that must "seat" exactly proper inside a slight indent.  That is very easy to miss.  To avoid all that inconvenience and detail, I advise DO NOT loosen any bolts.  Just cut-vacuum, drill-vacuum, and be done.  Very simple, very fast, risk-free, completed in just 10 minutes.

I initially thought I would use the stand to mount the pump, but it would require reassembling the pump with the motor case 180 degrees, and then I would need to drill a weep hole.  With the stand off, the two mounting screw holes become weep holes face down.  Taking the pump apart again was a deterrent.

One final suggestion.  The pump bolts require a 5/16" thin wall socket.  I suggest you make sure the bolts are tightened up.  When loosening mine during disassembly, they were almost loose.

Closing point:  My original Sanicon is 8 years old.  That company was bought by Thetford around 4 years ago.  It is conceivable the pump in recent years could be different than the pump made by the original company.  Before buying a new pump, I advise to first remove your original pump to see if it looks like my old pump.

 on: April 16, 2015, 11:11:26 pm 
Started by David J. Rotelle - Last post by Pax

Same with my rig, which is a 2552.  My thought has been that it is because the tank is on the passengers side of the rig, very close to that sides overflow.  I would imagine that if I closed off that side overflow the water would eventually come out the drivers side.  Not sure where your water tank is.

   - Mike

 on: April 16, 2015, 10:30:56 pm 
Started by mrkenney41 - Last post by David J. Rotelle

I noticed you spend part of the year in Hilton Head. Our family has been going to Hilton Head for several years to visit my father and mother in law, they had a home on Ibis. We have a large family so we always took our Motorhome when we went to visit.
My in laws sold their house a couple of months ago. My wife just reminded me this evening that their house in Hilton Head went to settlement today................sad to say we no longer have ties to the Island it's a beautiful place to visit.
It must be interesting to be down there with the Heritage golf classic going on. Smile


 on: April 16, 2015, 10:13:46 pm 
Started by David J. Rotelle - Last post by David J. Rotelle
When I fill my fresh water tank I have always used the hookup on the driver side of the coach with the dial set to TANK. The overflow always comes out of the opposite side of the coach, it never comes out of the breather hole on the side I'm filling. Does anyone know if this is normal?

Thank you,

 on: April 16, 2015, 07:28:22 pm 
Started by larry06 - Last post by donc13
my water pump works fine in the shower and bath room. but in kinten the pump just goes on and off all the time hot or cold but  bath room works ok . works ok on city water.

hope some can help.

have a nice day
javascript:void(0);  Larry06

That sounds like something limiting the flow in the kitchen so the pump cycles as the pressure changes.   Is there a filter in the kitchen?   Is the aerator at the end of the kitchen faucet clogged with debris?

 on: April 16, 2015, 07:06:59 pm 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by ron.dittmer
Technically, not enough to matter.  Basically the same benefits as a car, alloy wheels versus steel with wheel covers.

In order of importance to me.
 - A Nicer More Quality Apperance (especially considering my full body paint job)
- Reduced Unsprung Weight (takes bumps & holes better, and improves handling)
- Better Balance & True-Spin (reduced vibration)

If you look close at 18 wheelers, all cross country rigs have alloy wheels on the front for steering & handling, and most have them on the rest of the tractor.  Trailer wheels are steel unless owned by the trucker.

I really don't feel a PC will benefit much.  I just like the idea of having alloy wheels like my other vehicles have.

 on: April 16, 2015, 06:00:32 pm 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Barry-Sue
Even though I thoroughly clean my countertops and always use cutting boards, after three years they were looking dull and scratched to me.  I did some research on line and folks suggested using Countertop cleaner by Magic

I found a can for $6.00 at a store in Shipshewana, IN and thought I'd give it a try.  What an amazing job it did.  They look and feel brand new.

I bought some Scotch Brite non scratch scour pads, and gave them a light rubbing with that, I then sprayed the countertop cleaner on them and immediately wiped it off, buffing very lightly.  I am very,very pleased with the way they look and feel. As I mentioned before they look and feel brand new.


 on: April 16, 2015, 05:13:13 pm 
Started by mrkenney41 - Last post by donc13
Yesterday morning after all the heavy rain here in KY i went to check on my new 3100.  The commode was almost full of water. There is no water hookupin use and the pump was not on.  I flushed it and checked it this AM.  A small amount of water was in the bottom.  Any ideas how this could happen.  I thought maybe rain came in the vent somehow.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  Thanks

Mike  Newbie

If the pump had been on, and then turned off, some pressure remains....especially if there is air in the system.   If the toilet valve had a slow leak..that excess water would have (could have) slowly run into the bowl.   But typically that would only be 4 to 8 ounces.   Not enough to almost fill the bowl.    Did you by any chance check the toilet right after you parked it?   If the toilet valve had a slow could have been leaking while the pump was on....and you just didn't notice it.

No way rain could have backed up into the bowl.

 on: April 16, 2015, 04:29:09 pm 
Started by mrkenney41 - Last post by Barry-Sue

We had the same thing happen the other day.  Our toilet bowl was half full of water even though we were not hooked up and the pump was off.  We figured there must have been some built up pressure in the pipes. We flushed it and it hasn't happened since.  This was the first time in six years.


 on: April 16, 2015, 04:26:36 pm 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Joseph
Ron, what are the advantages of the Alcoa wheels? I'm guessing weight but are there other advantages as well?

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