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 21 
 on: February 22, 2017, 09:35:26 am 
Started by tnedator - Last post by ragoodsp
The armless Carefree awnings are very cool and you do not constantly wack your head on the sliding arms used on PC's awnings.   The wind/rain sensor is all so nice since there is really nothing that holds the armless awaning donw if a heavy wind came up.  i have the armless carefree on my Renegade and it works very well. good luck

 22 
 on: February 22, 2017, 09:11:53 am 
Started by tnedator - Last post by randallandchris
"So, you think a single 15,000 BTU unit will cool a 2552 even when the temp tops 100?  I would like to avoid the extra hole in the room and take away from room I might use for Solar that will come with adding a second unit."

Been there in a 30 ft class A, granted more volume but was also better insulated, thicker walls and much thicker roof.  Bottom line, one AC won't keep wife happy in those temps except maybe a no slide 2100.

 23 
 on: February 22, 2017, 09:08:41 am 
Started by garmp - Last post by 2 Frazzled
We carry a 25' and a 10' round hose. We've only hit one campsite where we couldn't hook up water or electric, even with our extension cord and extra hose but we were able to switch sites so we didn't have to go out and buy more gear. They all store easily in the rear cabinet.

As for getting supplies: Walmart is ALMOST everywhere, camp stores usually carry potable water hoses (you may pay more but if yours blows out, it could be worth it) and if you have Amazon Prime, you can frequently have gear delivered General Delivery to a nearby post office - it may take two days but if you are far away somewhere, it might be the best bet. We've had equipment and even cat food delivered to a PO on our route and picked it up on the way through.

We like to sanitize the spigot with bleach, then turn the spigot on to flush it out PRIOR to hooking up the hose, tip a touch of bleach in our hose then hook it up to the spigot and flush THAT out before hooking the other end to our rig. It's extra steps but I've seen nasty stuff on spigots and we drink from our taps if we've sanitized the system before going out. When were full time on board, we knew our water supply was clean and good to go.


 24 
 on: February 22, 2017, 08:56:33 am 
Started by tnedator - Last post by Pax
In our real world experience with a 2552 and a 15,000btu A/C unit (non-heat pump) while camping in 90-100 degree weather, we can generally assume a maximum 20-25 degree differential between indoor and outdoor temps.  Heat loads play a huge role though.  In our case it is two humans, two small pets, some lighting, tv, shades drawn, usually parked in the sun.  Our preference would be two non-heat pump A/C units for the additional cooling capacity as well as the option of using just one (the smaller unit would be quieter) when highest capacity isn't required.  With one unit in a hot climate, (as long as possible) we ensure we have the cab A/C cranked up while parking and setting up.

    - Mike

 25 
 on: February 22, 2017, 08:55:43 am 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by 2 Frazzled
John regularly lifts the front tires off the ground. Many campsites slope away and down to the front for drainage. We only lifted the rear tires once... and rolled forward off the jacks. It was a serious HOLY COW moment and we've never done that again. I think part of our problem is we've never calibrated the jacks. I read somewhere you should do that. John is an engineer and if the control pad on the jacks says he needs to lift the front, he lifts it unless I can pull out a level and prove the control panel wrong (and after a mild discussion - NO, we are NOT level - it's lying to you again, look at the tilt - sometimes my argument works, sometimes not. Engineers go by the numbers.)

We don't mind mild tilt but there are some areas with enough tilt that the fridge goes into fault mode (like the driveway where we are staying). We have to get level enough for safe operation of the fridge. We've camped tilted to the side badly enough once that I had to hang on to prevent myself rolling off the side of the bed (we were not able to use jacks where we were). This does not make for a restful night.

We love having jacks and use them most nights but John really covets jacks that can be leveled individually as we frequently have one low corner and it's tricky raising and lowering front then side then back then side to get one jack lower than the others. It's all personal preference though.

 26 
 on: February 22, 2017, 08:42:39 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by 2 Frazzled
We had one of the bayonets crack a few years back. We caught it when it had just a small leak as the parts started to separate. When we took it to an RV repair shop, they called Thetford and the parts and repair were free so I think this is another of those items that the manufacturer knows has issues but they either don't have a better solution or just don't want to deal with a recall. They fix them as they go... and as complaints come in. We hit the same deal with the Onan generator fuel pump, the Atwood Furnace igniter, the lense covers on the motion sensor for our outdoor light and then the Thetford macerator bayonet. They know there is an issue, they just don't recall them.

 27 
 on: February 22, 2017, 07:40:00 am 
Started by tnedator - Last post by tnedator
If you live in Florida.. Up the A/C from the 13,000but to the 15,000 btu.   The 13,000 can't quite keep up in my 2551 once the outside temp is about 85 or so.   

I live in Arkansas, but will travel to and stay in it in FL or other similar climates (Arkansas is quite often 95-105 with heat index in the 100-110 range in the summer). 

So, you think a single 15,000 BTU unit will cool a 2552 even when the temp tops 100?  I would like to avoid the extra hole in the room and take away from room I might use for Solar that will come with adding a second unit.

Thanks

 28 
 on: February 22, 2017, 05:48:58 am 
Started by garmp - Last post by Pax
Regarding the flat type hoses, keep in mind that they will naturally 'inflate' with water and so none of its length will be or can be coiled.  For instance, if the connection is 10 feet away and your flat hose is longer, the entire length will naturally snake around the ground (not coiled up like a regular hose). They also have a tendency to kink so it needs to be gently curved on the ground.  Due to kinking you'll probably want to buy something like a 45 or 90 degree entry elbow such as this as well: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/90-degree-water-hose-entry-elbow/1745

    - Mike

 29 
 on: February 21, 2017, 11:03:56 pm 
Started by tnedator - Last post by donc13
Ok, i'm getting close to pulling the trigger on my first RV and a PC.  Likely a 2551 or 2552.

As PC is very accommodating with changes unlike most other companies, I want to make sure I get it right. 

What I'm really wondering about is non standard options.  So, not talking about full body paint or levelers, but instead items like Gandalf described in his thread (pure sine inverter, extra backer board in places, etc.).

Some of the items I have so far:

110, USB and 12v outlets in cubbies over head side of twin beds.
Possibly a little flip down ledge for cell phone/alarm clock near head of bed
All 110 outlets tied into inverter
110 outlet near (behind) passenger seat if there isn't one already
Solar panels and charging system
AGM batteries
Insulate/heat Sanicon pump
AC w/heat pump (not sure if I need two HVACs for southern US/Florida type travel). Someone mentioned the Coleman fan not cycling on/off (so less annoying at night), need to investigate that.
Side cameras
Maybe collision avoidance/lane departure (need to read more of how this works in E450 setup).

Seems like there are a few more things, but that's what comes to mind at the moment. 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions on what I should consider.


If you live in Florida.. Up the A/C from the 13,000but to the 15,000 btu.   The 13,000 can't quite keep up in my 2551 once the outside temp is about 85 or so.   

 30 
 on: February 21, 2017, 10:56:57 pm 
Started by RheaNL - Last post by donc13
Only a reference by Sparky a year ago about replacing a windshield so would welcome any/all input.

Is it the original Ford E-350 windshield or was it modified?
Was there additional cost because the vehicle is now a motorhome?
If you have had it replace, any problems with leakage after?

Thanks,
Nicki - Colorado

Original.   Very common windshield.

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