Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
 on: June 27, 2015, 12:52:46 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by gradygal
Thanks. I found that video this morning but the design of the pedal is different than ours. I hammered that sucker on and we pray that it holds 'til I call Thetford and see what to do to repair.

One guy on some Forum that I was on this morning bought a new base unit to fix his problem. Hope we don't have to do that. Shipping to Maine would be a bear!


 on: June 27, 2015, 11:21:53 am 
Started by gradygal - Last post by Barry-Sue
Yikes is right--thetford does have a you tube video on taking off the old pedal (not a problem for you) and replacing with a new one.  It does show what a good pedal should look like on the back side, maybe you can determine what went bad on yours and come up with a temporary fix.  Apparently you can get foot pedal repair kits for these.  Here is the link to the you tube video

 on: June 27, 2015, 10:55:31 am 
Started by gradygal - Last post by gradygal
Yikes--the pedal on our Style II Thetford toilet fell off--not good. I took a mallet and tapped it back in and for now it is holding. After checking on-line, It seems that this is a problem with this toilet. I will call Thetford Monday AM. It seems like the inside channel was worn which allows the pedal to pop off.

Has anyone had this problem? If so, what was the fix?


 on: June 27, 2015, 10:23:59 am 
Started by savvydog - Last post by keelhauler
I hard wired a Progressive Model EMS-HW30C into my 2006 2551 cruiser. I had Phoenix install one when I bought the 2012 2552.

As discussed, other than finding a good place to mount and the stiff wire, it was no problem to install. The read out unit has telephone wire cord that is easy to route where it is convenient to view, I put mine next to door under light switches.

I also love the readout unit that tells me what voltage is or any error signals. Once we had a really big power surge that blew a fuse on the circuit board, You could still use the power thanks to bypass switch and Progressive sent free a new circuit board which just plugged in and you needed to return the old board.

So where you install it, make sure you can get the cover off. You do not have to unwire it from your unit.

 on: June 26, 2015, 05:32:36 pm 
Started by GoPhoenix - Last post by TomHanlon
So sorry to see you go. Keep in touch as you still have a vast knowlege of infomation that can help others on here.

 on: June 26, 2015, 05:24:37 pm 
Started by PJ Corey - Last post by Jim and Beth
Our refrigerator bottom door hinge broke on a return trip from Florida in May. We have always been cautious about not letting the door swing open and hit the opening to the bedroom area. However we have probably put some heavier items in the door, but not necessarily overloading the door shelves. For the rest of the trip home I folded cardboard from a cereal box to put under the door to keep the spacing correct and keep the fridge seals tight because we continued to use the fridge to keep the food cold. I used Gorilla tape (would not travel without it) to hold the door in place.

Now for the fix - I used the slow curing JB Weld to set the broken piece back onto the base of the door hinge. If you do this you need to be sure that the broken part is correctly positioned to fit on the hinge pin later. To hold everything in place I used masking tape and also filled the "pocket" of the hinge with JB Weld. For additional support I also filled all the "pockets" of the other three hinges on the fridge and freezer. After the epoxy dried I used "Wrought Iron" black paint from a craft store to match the existing color/texture of the fridge trim.

Next I ordered Norcold Retrofit Door Hinge kit, part #634166, from Amazon for $26.51. This kit comes with two hinges, two flat washers and very poor instructions. One hinge is for a right hand door and the other hinge is for a left hand door. I used the right hand hinge on the bottom and secured it with small self piercing screws. I used the left hand hinge on the top of the fridge door for added support. Instead of using the larger flat washers from the kit I used #12 stainless steel flat washers which are the perfect size for use on the hinges. To install the door, I put some silicone lube on the bottom hinge pin, placed a washer on the pin, set the door, used another washer and then used washers above and below the top hinge as I inserted the top hinge pin. The end result is a very solid repaired door system reinforced top and bottom with JB Weld, metal hinge supports and flat washers that remove any vertical movement. So far has worked great...

For those who have not experienced this you might want to take preventative measures.

 on: June 26, 2015, 03:47:54 pm 
Started by PJ Corey - Last post by Barry-Sue
I have talked to Norcold three different times about why there are two retrofit hinges in the retrofit kit and got different answers each time.  The documentation that came with the kit says there is a "retrofit hinge-left", "retrofit hinge-right".


 on: June 26, 2015, 02:46:59 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by Barry-Sue
Barry and I thought that company was just for the door frame since they specialize in powder coating.   Will be interested to know if they also make the screen section of the door.


 on: June 26, 2015, 02:32:19 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by gradygal
There is a name on the door--Liftco with an 800 #. I've got a call in to them to see about rescreening.

 on: June 26, 2015, 02:28:31 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by Barry-Sue

I would call Kermit.  I looked on ours and do not see a brand name.  Maybe Kermit can tell you who the manufacturer is and then you could call them and see if it can be done.  There are a few companies online that make them and I even noticed that Home Depot sells them.


Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10