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 on: June 26, 2015, 05:24:37 pm 
Started by PJ Corey - Last post by Jim and Beth
Our refrigerator bottom door hinge broke on a return trip from Florida in May. We have always been cautious about not letting the door swing open and hit the opening to the bedroom area. However we have probably put some heavier items in the door, but not necessarily overloading the door shelves. For the rest of the trip home I folded cardboard from a cereal box to put under the door to keep the spacing correct and keep the fridge seals tight because we continued to use the fridge to keep the food cold. I used Gorilla tape (would not travel without it) to hold the door in place.

Now for the fix - I used the slow curing JB Weld to set the broken piece back onto the base of the door hinge. If you do this you need to be sure that the broken part is correctly positioned to fit on the hinge pin later. To hold everything in place I used masking tape and also filled the "pocket" of the hinge with JB Weld. For additional support I also filled all the "pockets" of the other three hinges on the fridge and freezer. After the epoxy dried I used "Wrought Iron" black paint from a craft store to match the existing color/texture of the fridge trim.

Next I ordered Norcold Retrofit Door Hinge kit, part #634166, from Amazon for $26.51. This kit comes with two hinges, two flat washers and very poor instructions. One hinge is for a right hand door and the other hinge is for a left hand door. I used the right hand hinge on the bottom and secured it with small self piercing screws. I used the left hand hinge on the top of the fridge door for added support. Instead of using the larger flat washers from the kit I used #12 stainless steel flat washers which are the perfect size for use on the hinges. To install the door, I put some silicone lube on the bottom hinge pin, placed a washer on the pin, set the door, used another washer and then used washers above and below the top hinge as I inserted the top hinge pin. The end result is a very solid repaired door system reinforced top and bottom with JB Weld, metal hinge supports and flat washers that remove any vertical movement. So far has worked great...

For those who have not experienced this you might want to take preventative measures.

 on: June 26, 2015, 03:47:54 pm 
Started by PJ Corey - Last post by Barry-Sue
I have talked to Norcold three different times about why there are two retrofit hinges in the retrofit kit and got different answers each time.  The documentation that came with the kit says there is a "retrofit hinge-left", "retrofit hinge-right".


 on: June 26, 2015, 02:46:59 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by Barry-Sue
Barry and I thought that company was just for the door frame since they specialize in powder coating.   Will be interested to know if they also make the screen section of the door.


 on: June 26, 2015, 02:32:19 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by gradygal
There is a name on the door--Liftco with an 800 #. I've got a call in to them to see about rescreening.

 on: June 26, 2015, 02:28:31 pm 
Started by gradygal - Last post by Barry-Sue

I would call Kermit.  I looked on ours and do not see a brand name.  Maybe Kermit can tell you who the manufacturer is and then you could call them and see if it can be done.  There are a few companies online that make them and I even noticed that Home Depot sells them.


 on: June 26, 2015, 01:07:44 pm 
Started by GoPhoenix - Last post by ron.dittmer

I am sorry to hear it is time for you to sell your PC keys to a new owner.  It is a reminder to me that we all have only so much time before it will be our turn to do the same.  At age 57 this year for me, I would hope to have many good years ahead to wear out our PC.  But life can throw a curve ball too and so we can't always bank on "later".

I thank you for your contributions to this forum.  I hope you sell your PC for a decent price and done quickly.  If I hear anyone looking for a PC, I will give them your email address.

God Bless you and your wife's next adventure without a motor home.

PS:  I am contacting you on the side.  Watch for it.

 on: June 26, 2015, 10:34:50 am 
Started by gradygal - Last post by gradygal
We just noticed that we have a small hole in the screening on the retractable screen. Has anyone had their screening replaced?


 on: June 25, 2015, 11:12:15 pm 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by Bob Mahon
We sold our 2552 and are no longer doing the RV thing.
However, I must say after 30+ years, having high-line Diesel-Pushers and other units in addition to our most recent 3 PC models, I cannot speak more highly of any manufacturer than Kermit and his staff. They have made owning a PC the easiest and most enjoyable experience I/we have ever had.  ThumbsUp
When asked about what RV manufacturer I was most satisfied with, which is fairly often, I'll always tell them to look at Phoenix Cruiser first.
As far as I'm concerned, PC is the bench-mark to which others aspire.  obliged

 on: June 25, 2015, 08:21:01 pm 
Started by savvydog - Last post by RKS
We have a  Progressive  plug in type.  We were recently at a KOA in NY.
Plugged in and set up for the night in the process discovered there was no power to the coach.  I immediately checked the surge protector and everything looked fine.  After a  bunch of head scratching and checking all the breakers I went back to the surge procteor and noted that in addition to the normal codes there was a code for an open ground that I must have missed on my first check.   Called the KOA office and no answer or emergency contact number (6pm), very reassuring.  I left a message and their maintenance person verified my findings the next morning.
The nice thing about the plug in unit was I just took it to an adjacent  site , plugged it in and it tested ok so we packed up and relocated. 
An aside, in the process I called Phoenix to see if maybe there was a breaker I was missing and Earl answered on his mobile while driving home, you can't beat that.

 on: June 25, 2015, 04:36:44 pm 
Started by savvydog - Last post by Barry-Sue

I installed a hardwired Progressive Industries Electric Management System Model EMS-HW30C and found it works great.  A nice feature is that it can be turned off (no need to remove) if it fails or detects a problem that cannot be fixed immediately.   Also, the surge portion is warranted for life and is very easy to replace.  

The installation was very simple except for dealing with the stiff 10g wire. The unit provides voltage protection (<104V & >132V), frequency protection (<51HZ & > 69HZ), Surge Protection, Polarity Protection and Open Neutral/Ground Protection. Also, it has a built in volt meter, frequency meter and amp meter all very handy when it comes to troubleshooting power problems.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Here is a link to Progressive Industries web site and an Amazon listing:

30 Amp Service!ems-hw30c/cuun

50 Amp Service!ems-hw50c/cjk6

One very useful feature is the amp meter that allows for real time monitoring of the current draw.  This feature allowed me to measure the current draw of each major electrical device in the PC.

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