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 on: August 26, 2015, 06:57:21 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by JOVIC
I checked the grinder pump and door strut alignments and all appears well but while inspecting the grinder pump I noticed the small clear plastic bypass line had a KINK completely closeing off the bypass. The tubing appears to be too long so I removed it, cut a short piece off reinstalled it and when testing it a small leak showed up. At first I thought I may have punctured the pump discharge hose but upon closer inspection I discovered the leak was on the small thread of one of the 90 deg elbow fittings in the bypass line. I removed the bypass line once again, retightened the fitting reassembled and all appears to be well again.  Anybody else ever had an issue the bypass line?
Just one more thing to be mindful of when working around the grinder pump.
I am new to this forum but enjoy the wealth of information as well as the knowledge of the participants. I look forward to each session.  ThumbsUp

 on: August 26, 2015, 05:01:29 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Doneworking
Thanks, Denny.  I find this forum to be most helpful to me.  Every brand and every model has specific quirks and tendencies it seems.  We need to share them so we can be prepared or perhaps avoid a problem.

My best example to date was the posts a couple of months ago about the darn refrigerator doors falling off!   I read the posts, ordered the support kit from Amazon and went on a long trip boondocking far off from civilization and cell phone service.  Now, wouldn't that have been a real hoot to have the door fall off thirty miles from civilization?  Those posts probably saved me some real agony.  When I examined the design of the door hinge on the refrig, I was shocked.  When I researched it further and found out it had been a known problem by the refrigerator manufacturer for years I was more shocked.   Such is life in the world of 2015. 

By the way, the O ring in the macerator is simply a 3" ID standard sized ring.   I went to four stores to buy a couple to replace the existing one and have an extra.  Tractor Supply, Lowes, Home Depot and a large Ace Hardware.  None sold O rings except plumbing rings for household plumbing repairs.   I was shocked.   The reason, one guy told me was because "most people don't repair things anymore, they just replace them".   That was a sad indictment of contemporary attitudes, but true I guess.  Now, I am going online and buy a couple to have for the future.  I just lubricated the existing ring and replaced it.


 on: August 26, 2015, 04:44:47 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Barry-Sue
I find the cruise control on the E-350/E450 less responsive to grade changes than other vehicles I have driven.  On a roadway that is flat to rolling the cruise control works well.  However, once steeper inclines are encountered the cruise control seems to rely more on downshifting than throttle control.  I have found that once my speed drops 4 or 5 MPH below the cruise control set point the transmission starts downshifting one or more gears.  I have also found that if I manually increase the throttle and keep my speed close to the cruise control set point I can climb most inclines without having the transmission downshift.  I do not know if this saves any gas but it sure makes me feel better to the keep the RPM's down.

The other problem I have with the cruise control is the way it handles declines.  When going downhill with the cruise control set if my speed increases 4 or 5 MPH the transmission will downshift and will remain in the lower gear far too long.  I avoid this situation by disengaging the cruise control on long or steep down grades and manually downshifting as necessary.


 on: August 26, 2015, 08:54:46 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Denny & Barb
Thanks Paul for your findings on these two problem areas.  I also re-installed the struts last winter when in Arizona. Will also check my pumps alignment.  Posts like yours is why I try and check this forum on most days.


 on: August 26, 2015, 06:59:01 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Pax
Thanks for that info!  Always good to know what others have encountered.  I'll be checking my pump and struts a bit more carefully now.  (Oh, and congrats on your 100th post!)  Wink

    - Mike

 on: August 25, 2015, 09:58:32 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Doneworking
Today was the day to work on the macerator.   At the end of a three week trip two weeks ago, the pump started leaking whether running or not when the valves were open.  I closed both gray and black valves after dumping in Amarillo, Texas and drove on home to Oklahoma City (about 260 miles).   I got the rig out of storage today and took a look.   It was leaking at the connection where  the pump  bayonets to the black discharge line.  I removed the pump and checked it out, halfway guessing the housing was cracked.   No cracks.   I took out the flat ring and o ring seals, cleaned them and their seats and re-installed the pump.  Still leaking.

Now, this is a pretty simple setup.  The pump simply twists onto its receiver and leaks are prevented by the two rings.  What could be wrong?  Well, here is what it was:

     The pump is secured with its bayonet fitting and is supported by a U shaped support which is bolted through  the bottom of the storage area for the Sani Com system. Other models may differ from my 2350 in specifics of where the pump is located.   I noticed that the pump was not really in line with the black sewer pipe that fed into it.  When installed, the pump was pulled upward by the U support about a half an inch, putting strain on the mounting at the bayonet.  Over the three years since the rig was made (purchased in September 2012) that stress created by the misalignment had caused a small amount of distortion in the pump and the excess and uneven compression caused the o ring to no longer seal properly.  

The solution was to lower one end of the U support  a half inch by using a longer bolt and spacer to allow the pump to align.   Since the pump is only about 12 inches long, a half inch upward pull on one end is significant.   The installation manual for the pump indicates that the end should be secured in a way to support it with some flexibility.   It is a long way from a little flexibility to being essentially bent upward a half inch and rigidly installed.   No leaks now.  I filled both tanks and dumped them using the pump and all is well.   When something doesn't fit, forcing it to do so can result in a heck of a mess and problem sometime later for the owner.  

Also today, I fixed one of the struts that hold up the back storage area access door (where we store our hoses and the power cords on all PCs).  It had come loose from the door and all three screws had popped out.  No wonder.  When it was installed the bracket at the base of the strut was installed to a support that apparently had missed a screw or rivet and was flexing.   Who ever had installed it at the factory must have known of the problem because there were two sets of three holes, the sets being about 3/4 inch apart.  At first if it doesn't work, just move it over!   Glad Boeing doesn't do that building planes sad

I reinforced the strut bracket mounting so it would not flex, re-installed the strut in the proper location.   I replaced the screws on both struts where they mount to the door with screws both slightly longer and with a larger diameter to decrease pressure on the mounting.   One size screw just doesn't cut it everywhere a screw is used Cry

I report both of these repairs to my fellow owners so that if you have these problems you can  profit from my experience.  If the macerator leaks, check the alignment.   You might also check your two struts to make sure they are properly secured.  

Phoenix Cruisers clearly enjoy a built quality much higher than most Class C motor homes.   But regardless of that, just a simple error or "hurry up" on the production line can cause a real pain in the fanny for the owner sometime in the future.   A couple of minutes saved is a couple of hours spent by the purchaser repairing a problem that should never had occurred.  



 on: August 25, 2015, 07:48:28 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
When we're on a freeway in cruise control, I'll often let the transmission shift down once if it looks like the incline we're on is fairly short and know it will shift up soon.  If the incline in long or the transmission shifts down again due to the steepness of the grade, I always turn the cruise control off and choose the gear myself.  We do slow down some, but I hate to hear the engine race and waste fuel.

 on: August 25, 2015, 04:58:01 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by jfcaramagno
Left to its own devices, the Cruise Control will shift down to whatever gear is necessary to maintain the set speed. That can mean 3rd gear at 55 mph, or in our case 5K rpm. That wastes gas. Best to let the PC slow down on upgrades. Too bad the Cruise doesn't have an economy mode.

 on: August 25, 2015, 08:51:31 am 
Started by savvydog - Last post by Doneworking
I suspect we are all prejudiced by our personal experiences regarding most things.  Me?  I have always preferred to go down the road on DC and have done so for most of my 30+ years of owning motor homes.  Our unit prior to owning our PC, we got over six years service on our set of coach batteries and always ran down the merry lanes on DC.  I replaced the coach battery after six years just because it was original and figured it was time.   The coach and chassis were never taken back to any dealer for service or problems after I drove it off the sales lot after buying it new.   So, I would conclude that for me the DC worked just fine.  Plus, on propane you always have to remember to turn of the refrig when gassing up.   Boom is a bad word.


 on: August 25, 2015, 01:26:20 am 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
The September 2015 issue of MotorHome magazine has an article on page 99 entitled Power Trip 101 that covers some of the topics included in this thread.

It is primarily focused on 50 amp hookup pedestals, but includes graphics that help me to better understand Barrys original post here.  It describes the Leg 1 and 2 that I think Barry calls Phase 1 and 2.

We always use a portable Surge Guard, but seldom use our voltmeter or anything else to check the pedestal.  This discussion is making me reevaluate our technique.


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