Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10
 on: September 15, 2014, 07:55:36 pm 
Started by wnc2551 - Last post by BGolden
I remove my SaniCon pump when I winterize, if I recall the pump fuse is an inline fuse just above the plug connection.

Bill G

 on: September 15, 2014, 07:38:39 pm 
Started by wnc2551 - Last post by dickreid1

This annoying situation turned up our second summer trip.  It was so common that i carried both a flat blade and phillips screwdriver in the Sanicon compartment.  At the end of our third summer trip this year I swapped them for a single double-end offset screwdriver.


 on: September 15, 2014, 07:04:42 pm 
Started by monacoman - Last post by monacoman
Thanks, Sue.  When I pull the lever I, also, hear the spring, but the chair does not move.

 on: September 15, 2014, 06:59:10 pm 
Started by Bergie - Last post by lghjr
I had a similar situation at the same point and the housing was not cracked but the "paper" gaskets were basically rotted through.  I remade gaskets with thicker material and that was a definite no-no, DID NOT WORK .  I ended up making gaskets out of plastic coated paper similar to what is on the back of bumper sticker/decals, etc., and the leak was stopped and we never looked back.  What I actually used was the backing from a roll of aluminum ac tape, but because of the one time use I wouldn't run out and buy it, kinda pricey and I had it on hand.  I actually tried the aluminum tape with the backing, but again was too thick in my pump.
FWIW the seals can be repacked with (I used silicone) grease when the pump is apart.

 on: September 15, 2014, 05:14:40 pm 
Started by Bergie - Last post by Bergie
Thanks Bob.  A new pump is over $300 so I am willing to do what ever I can to repair/rebuild this one.  Just has been driving me nuts with the leak/no leak situation.  I dumped and flushed the tanks and put it in storage and there did not appear to be a drip at the time.  I went back today to get some things and checked and it started to drip again.  My tanks are as empty as I can get them and since the valves are shutting off any liquid getting to the pump I was completely baffled as to why it continued to leak.  Can there be that much left in the pump after the valves close?  Do you know of any videos or instructions available on how to remove and dismantle the pump?  I want to be as well informed as I can before I start into this.  My brother says to just remove the whole thing and put a manual system in but I don't want to do that.

 on: September 15, 2014, 04:52:14 pm 
Started by Bergie - Last post by bobander
Hi Bergie,

I just went through a similar situation with a slow drip from my 2010 sanicon.  The reason the drip stops awhile after dumping is because the volume of water trapped between the sanicon and the two tank valves drains out through the leak and no more is coming through the closed tank valves.  So that is good news that the tank valves are not leaking.  The bad news is that the sanicon has a leak.  I took mine apart and found a crack in the housing.  I did some grinding and filling with epoxy and the leak is fixed for now.  You can buy a new housing from various RV suppliers.  Also there are gaskets and a shaft seal that may be the problem, those are available as well.  You may have to just tear it down and see what the problem is.

I didn't buy any parts so I don't have a supplier to recommend, I replaced the paper gaskets with RTV gasket sealer and that worked great.


 on: September 15, 2014, 03:59:05 pm 
Started by wnc2551 - Last post by TomHanlon
Per your owners manual, if you have one, you followed the correct procedure.

 on: September 15, 2014, 03:54:33 pm 
Started by Bergie - Last post by Bergie
My Sanicon pump is dripping, not from the weep hole but from the joint in the middle with the half moon holes around it.  I figured it had to be a valve that was not closing all the way so I had my brother adjust them so they close fully now.  It drips right after I dump the tanks and then, as I use it more it stops.  I am thinking I have a valve that is "loose" in the gasket and when more pressure gets behind it it pushes on it and forces it to seal tight.  Anyone have any ideas?  Anyone know what kind of replacement seals go in the Auto Drain three inch valves just in case I get brave and decide to take them apart to repair them?

 on: September 15, 2014, 03:49:16 pm 
Started by wnc2551 - Last post by Bergie
I was trying to dump my tanks after about 900 miles on the road and the pump up and quit on me.  I turned it off and could not get it to start again.  I waited until I got home the next day to see what I could do about it.  I checked all the fuses and they were good so I took a screwdriver and moved the impeller on the pump back and forth until it freed up and would turn continuously in a clockwise direction.  That fixed the problem and the pump ran fine on my next attempt to dump.  Something was stuck and it just shut the pump off rather than burning it up.  Oh, the screw is on the end of the pump facing the street, very easy. 

 on: September 15, 2014, 01:29:14 pm 
Started by monacoman - Last post by Barry-Sue
What happens when you pull the release handle toward you (when I am doing it from behind the seat the release is under the seat on the left)?  When I pull on ours I can hear a spring working to release the stationary mode and allow me to swivel the chair.  I also make sure the seat is all the way forward in the cab so that it doesn't hit the door when I turn it.


Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10