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 31 
 on: December 09, 2017, 06:17:07 pm 
Started by jfcaramagno - Last post by jfcaramagno
Does anyone know the manufacturer of the Euro chair? I need to order a new part.

 32 
 on: December 09, 2017, 02:21:17 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
At a glace the rear wall does not look bad, but like you say, when studying it closer, it appears the rear wall had pulled away.  I suspect a previous owner clipped a tree maneuvering the rig in a camp-site.....a very common owner error.  I assume the rear wall ripped away from the inner wall, screws and all.  The repair appears to have involved pushing the wall back into position and attached it in a less than ideal manner.  If you plan to own the rig for a long time, I advise to have Phoenix install a brand new wall and be forever done with the matter.  If you are like many people here on this forum who change motor homes frequently, then try your best to reinforce and increase the attachment points around the area of damage, and get the seam in proper alignment so the finish trim is straightened out.  Being in Florida, you might have a skilled local boat repair shop that can handle it all in a proper manner.  But watch out for the cost of repair.  They may charge nearly as much as a brand new wall installed by Phoenix.



Your diagnosis agrees with mine.  Cheers
I would do the repair myself if PC does not do it. I am familiar with polyester resin and epoxy resin fiberglass construction/repair. The biggest hurdle I face is sourcing the seam cover. Tough item to ship.


About your storage door holding water in between the inner and outer skins.  I just looked at my 2007 2350 under-bed outdoor storage compartment door.  It has 3 weep holes  maybe 1/8" x 1/4" in size, perfectly manufactured.  They are along the bottom edge located outside the weather strip so collected water drips out onto the street.  Make sure your holes are free and clear of debris.  Maybe some original manufacturing dust and fiberglass bits have plugged up your 3 holes.

Just checked, there is one at either end on the underbed, 3 on the rear. All clear.
But that allowed me to see how they are made. Pretty simple- to disassemble, take out the four runner corners. Then the 4 aluminum locking pieces. This will allow the 'guts' to slide out, it looks to be aluminum sheeting sandwiching 3/4" polystyrene foam.
SO good to know for two things...
1) I can properly seal the lids using a bead of clear silicone before assembly.
2)On the back hatch, the support strut to the outside got ripped off the lid. I can see several tries for a repair that have failed. Its a holy spot.  rolling on the floor (Picture below) I can add some wood backer block in this area when i have the door apart.  ThumbsUp
Also just noticed... in that pic you can see the rubber corner, the aluminum lock strip in the upper left... and the missing lock strip on the strut mounting side. On to the 'parts needed' list it goes.


OK, and ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.

In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  LOL of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.
 
Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.

The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection. 

 33 
 on: December 09, 2017, 02:18:53 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by ron.dittmer
I am concerned any 120V electric on a moving slide-out runs a risk of something going wrong via an over-sight, forgetting you have it plugged in somewhere.  A power cord inside or outside could get pinched or stretched or sheared off.

I would place the pictured pass-thru on a fixed exterior wall, maybe adjacent to the 30 amp if accessible.  An alternate location might be near your exterior fridge or furnace panels.  Maybe near the single battery compartment there....if you have the single battery.  Or does your 2006 have twin batteries by the main entry door, the same as later model years?  2006 was the transition year from one to two batteries.

On the inside,  I would wire a duplex outlet via Romex (or better) & junction box mounted near the floor in the area of your wall closet or fridge.  Make it all 20 amp because your 2006 has 20 amp, 12 gauge wire throughout.  Any owner mods should follow the same practice for the same reason....wire & termination over-load insurance.



 34 
 on: December 09, 2017, 01:46:13 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by Volkemon
  I am thinking of installing a Marinco male connector in the side of the PC similar to the PC installed 30 amp male connector but would be designed to connect a 15 amp cord.  This would require drilling a 1 7/8 inch in the fiberglass exterior.  Anyone else drilled or cut the side panel and if so what was your experience?  I know Phoenix must successfully cut holes to install various electrical and plumbing ports but it makes me a little nervous.

I know the post got a bit off topic, but back to your original question.

Thinking about it, I may do this same modification to add the outlet like you describe. We are running a dehumidifier often, and I do not want a high draw appliance running unsupervised using the coach electrical. I can see running a space heater when parked also.

I have been running a cord in the drivers door. Works, but not the best solution.  Smile

I would like to have the shore connections near each other, at least on the same side. Mrs Volkemon is in the camper now getting ready for tonight, so a more detailed inspection of the current shore power connector area inside must wait.

One option I like is putting it on the slide. I have the fold down couch, and there is a spot I could surface mount a box. Fairly well hidden, yet easy to get to slide in or out.

pro's-
1) correct side
2) no plumbing to hit
3) minimal low voltage wiring in the wall, only a 12V line to the overhead light. I can see it goes up the rear outside wall of the slider, so easy to avoid.

cons-
1)wire will be hanging out when slide extended
2)appearance of surface mounted box inside. I would prefer a wall mount.

 The wall seems pretty uniform when I press on it, so not so easy to locate the aluminum framing. :( if I stick to this location, I may drill a few small holes on the inside, down below the couch trim. If aluminum spirals come out... I hit one.  Grin  I am going to try a studfinder also, if I can find mine.  LOL

I will explore the area back by the other connectors some more. I would prefer all the connections together.  Mrs V just informed me that the top shelf below the sink is soaked..  pulling hair out more leaks.

Below - good mounting location for the power box if I do choose the 'on the slide' option.


 35 
 on: December 09, 2017, 01:06:57 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by ron.dittmer
At a glace the rear wall does not look bad, but like you say, when studying it closer, it appears the rear wall had pulled away.  I suspect a previous owner clipped a tree maneuvering the rig in a camp-site.....a very common owner error.  I assume the rear wall ripped away from the inner wall, screws and all.  The repair appears to have involved pushing the wall back into position and attached it in a less than ideal manner.  If you plan to own the rig for a long time, I advise to have Phoenix install a brand new wall and be forever done with the matter.  If you are like many people here on this forum who change motor homes frequently, then try your best to reinforce and increase the attachment points around the area of damage, and get the seam in proper alignment so the finish trim is straightened out.  Being in Florida, you might have a skilled local boat repair shop that can handle it all in a proper manner.  But watch out for the cost of repair.  They may charge nearly as much as a brand new wall installed by Phoenix.

About your storage door holding water in between the inner and outer skins.  I just looked at my 2007 2350 under-bed outdoor storage compartment door.  It has 3 weep holes  maybe 1/8" x 1/4" in size, perfectly manufactured.  They are along the bottom edge located outside the weather strip so collected water drips out onto the street.  Make sure your holes are free and clear of debris.  Maybe some original manufacturing dust and fiberglass bits have plugged up your 3 holes.

 36 
 on: December 09, 2017, 12:02:34 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
Alrighty... PICTURES!   Grin

Ok.. seems like the pictures dont show on preview  , so i will try to caption them in order..

1) Right rear corner
2) closeup of top right rear, showing crack in cap that leads me to believe it was folded back. Top sealing looks like it has had a few tries. Seam cover trim is VERY wavy.
3) top left of door gasket. It does contact the door, but I am not happy with the fit and wrinkle on the corner.
4) Water in lower step area. I have not dried it out yet today. The wood was rotted to bits, so i removed the debris to help the area dry. The steel has surface rust, but is still sound.
5) crack on the floor of the small rear compartment, further evidence the rear cap was peeled back a bit.
6) the floor of the small rear compartment, outer corner. There is evidence of white caulking repair, and a big gap that lets the water out.
7) Underbed compartment carpet dry as a bone.  ThumbsUp The door itself seems to hold water, however. Looks like it gets in between the outer skin and the outside trim. When I opened the door, all this water came down the inside of the door. I may have to seal between the outer skin and the edge trim.

There ya go folks, todays report.  Grin We are taking the camper tonight to a concert, it will be the 'tailgating' base camp for several friends. NO rain forecast.  ThumbsUp 

I need to get it leak free by new years, we will be in it for 4-5 days then.

* Checked front sway bar, frame bushings look fine. I forgot it was the 'Twin I Beam' front, so no end links. Just the bushed hole on the lower arm. Fair condition, I have seen them 'metal to metal'.  I have put ~550 miles on the coach since buying it, I commute 60 miles a day and used it a few days and i use it to do errands to build operator experience. Had a few near misses parking it... its a bit bigger than my old microbus.  LOL But all in all, I have been happy with the handling.
 




 37 
 on: December 09, 2017, 11:22:30 am 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
Replies nested in the quote below, in red.

You learned a lot overnight.

LOL Yes we did.

A 2006 entry door is the same one used in a new 2018.  It sounds like you should order the thicker main entry door seal from Phoenix.
Maybe so. The one on there is in decent shape, but I dont like how it was installed.

If any water is coming in between the main entry door frame and the wall, that would require caulking.  Look for cracks in the existing caulk.  Many seams are trimmed off with a 3/4 x 1/8" plastic trim and caulked on each side, but between door frame and wall I think it's a single seam.  Also check the tiny rain gutter across the top of the door, making sure it is clean and sealed properly against the wall.
The door frame looks like a flush mount to the wall outside, with a small bead of silicone sealant I suspect has been added later. The tiny rain gutter is there, with no 'gaping voids' but missing the front gutterspout.

I am curious about your rear exterior wall damage.  Could you post a picture of it?  You have me wondering how deep the impact went.  It sounds like it affected the rear structural interior wall.  You mentioned the rear compartment gets wet but has good drainage.  Are you referring to the large rear under-bed storage compartment?  Or the shallow rear storage compartment integrated into the rear wall?
Pictures coming. Its ugly up close, but not  sad on a casual look. I think it was major, tearing off the rear cover on the right rear judging by the crack in it, and the poor shape of the covering trim over the seam.   Cry It got us a ~$2K reduction on the price. The leak is in the shallow rear compartment, although I have not checked the underbed yet today. It is still lightly raining, and bitter cold (for Florida.. I may have to put on a shirt!  rolling on the floor ) Pictures coming ASAP.

When we visited Phoenix a year ago, walking the factory floor I recall seeing a unit being built.  It was about to have the exterior fiberglass rear wall installed.  Oh how I wished I had taken pictures there.  If your interior rear interior wall is compromised with water getting inside on the bed, the proper repair might include removing the exterior fiberglass wall to repair the interior wall.  If that is your situation, you might want to call Phoenix for an estimate to have them repair the body damage.  They will be able to replace your fiberglass exterior rear wall if the damage to it interferes with a proper repair.

Phoenix is now under new ownership so what I am about to say might be different.  But maybe 6 years ago, someone bought an early model year PC with rear wall damage resulting in leakage.  Phoenix removed the rear wall, made proper repairs, and put it all back together like brand new for around $3000.  For you, being the slowest time of year it is in December for Phoenix, you might be able to schedule such a dramatic repair.  It might take them a day or two to get it done.  As well, Phoenix will know how to deal with your entry door leak and water damage.  Provide them with pictures to help them provide accurate estimates.  The cost might be worth the ride out and back and the few days spent there.  Nobody knows how to repair a PC better than Phoenix, and nobody has the right spare parts in stock like they do.  Though their hourly rate has increased, they are also dang efficient at doing the repairs costing you fewer hours of labor.  If our PC was in a significant accident causing water infiltration like you describe, Phoenix would be my place to run to.

I agree 100%. It is an option.

Concerning the dripping of water inside your PC from your brand new roof a/c unit, that does not sound right to me.  Something is wrong there.  I suspect the new a/c seal (or reused original seal) is deformed or seated improperly, allowing rain water and/or condensed water from the a/c unit back inside.

I suspect the same. It will need to be removed and inspected/resealed. After the dry-off last night, and even more rain, it is dry on the A/C and carpet below.  ThumbsUp

Call Phoenix.  Get some prices from them.

I have an unrelated question.  I assume your 2006 PC-2350 is built on either a 2005 or 2006 Ford E350 chassis.  Do you know what a stabilizer bar looks like?  If so, look under your rig and see if you have one for your rear axle.  You won't unless the previous owner installed one.  Also check your front stabilizer bar.  The Ford stock front stabilizer bar, the ends of it go into holes inside the front lower suspension.  If you see any gap between the bar and the end rubber grommets (I suspect you will) your front bar is worn.  Installing heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars will be well worth the extra investment for driving safety and comfort.  CLICK HERE  to read more about it.  CLICK HERE to read how to check your own suspension.

I have read both the links you reference, and many others here from you. I am one who 'lurks' for some time before posting to avoid repeating questions.
I am familiar with renewing the end link and frame bushings on the sway bar, upgrading to graphite impregnated 'urethane to avoid creaks and squeaks. Are you saying the bar itself wears out or the bushings? I have seen them bend to be unusable, but never 'wear out'
Rear sway and track bar, oversize front bar, shocks and airbags are all on the wish list as we intend on towing a trailer on festival outings. Not currently budgeted, however.  Embarrassed  



Ok, looking out at the pond, rain has stopped for now. More checking to do. Pictures too. Thanks for the support.

Oh... the windshield leak is solved.  Heart Shower Dry and dusty up there.   ThumbsUp

 38 
 on: December 09, 2017, 08:03:16 am 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by ron.dittmer
You learned a lot overnight.

A 2006 entry door is the same one used in a new 2018.  It sounds like you should order the thicker main entry door seal from Phoenix.

If any water is coming in between the main entry door frame and the wall, that would require caulking.  Look for cracks in the existing caulk.  Many seams are trimmed off with a 3/4 x 1/8" plastic trim and caulked on each side, but between door frame and wall I think it's a single seam.  Also check the tiny rain gutter across the top of the door, making sure it is clean and sealed properly against the wall.

I am curious about your rear exterior wall damage.  Could you post a picture of it?  You have me wondering how deep the impact went.  It sounds like it affected the rear structural interior wall.  You mentioned the rear compartment gets wet but has good drainage.  Are you referring to the large rear under-bed storage compartment?  Or the shallow rear storage compartment integrated into the rear wall?

When we visited Phoenix a year ago, walking the factory floor I recall seeing a unit being built.  It was about to have the exterior fiberglass rear wall installed.  Oh how I wished I had taken pictures there.  If your interior rear interior wall is compromised with water getting inside on the bed, the proper repair might include removing the exterior fiberglass wall to repair the interior wall.  If that is your situation, you might want to call Phoenix for an estimate to have them repair the body damage.  They will be able to replace your fiberglass exterior rear wall if the damage to it interferes with a proper repair.

Phoenix is now under new ownership so what I am about to say might be different.  But maybe 6 years ago, someone bought an early model year PC with rear wall damage resulting in leakage.  Phoenix removed the rear wall, made proper repairs, and put it all back together like brand new for around $3000.  For you, being the slowest time of year it is in December for Phoenix, you might be able to schedule such a dramatic repair.  It might take them a day or two to get it done.  As well, Phoenix will know how to deal with your entry door leak and water damage.  Provide them with pictures to help them provide accurate estimates.  The cost might be worth the ride out and back and the few days spent there.  Nobody knows how to repair a PC better than Phoenix, and nobody has the right spare parts in stock like they do.  Though their hourly rate has increased, they are also dang efficient at doing the repairs costing you fewer hours of labor.  If our PC was in a significant accident causing water infiltration like you describe, Phoenix would be my place to run to.

Concerning the dripping of water inside your PC from your brand new roof a/c unit, that does not sound right to me.  Something is wrong there.  I suspect the new a/c seal (or reused original seal) is deformed or seated improperly, allowing rain water and/or condensed water from the a/c unit back inside.

Call Phoenix.  Get some prices from them.

I have an unrelated question.  I assume your 2006 PC-2350 is built on either a 2005 or 2006 Ford E350 chassis.  Do you know what a stabilizer bar looks like?  If so, look under your rig and see if you have one for your rear axle.  You won't unless the previous owner installed one.  Also check your front stabilizer bar.  The Ford stock front stabilizer bar, the ends of it go into holes inside the front lower suspension.  If you see any gap between the bar and the end rubber grommets (I suspect you will) your front bar is worn.  Installing heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars will be well worth the extra investment for driving safety and comfort.  CLICK HERE  to read more about it.  CLICK HERE to read how to check your own suspension.

 39 
 on: December 09, 2017, 03:47:02 am 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Volkemon
please check the cap caulking.  That is where mine leaked down the front windshield.   

We had a BIIIG leak there, was in the 'trough' behind the windshield trim. 99.9% sure thats watertight now, been weeks. Did not check at the moment, but the floormats hold any leak from there as evidence.

3:30 AM report.

Raining HARD right now. Water leaking from the door-to-frame seal, can see drips heading down. Step flooded, but carpet is dry, so I am inclined to think it is coming from the door to frame seal and/or frame to coach seal. Coach is tilted right side (passenger side) low by ~1 inch and 'uphill' edge of step is dry.

Right rear corner leaking, pulled the mattress up so it wouldnt get wet. Can see water coming in, not flowing but a wet spot growing. This is from previous damage, and I know I will find the rear storage flooded also. It drains well luckily. Couple boxes stored in there exposed the leak last time. 

A/C dripping from condensation all over the trim/outlets. we used it ~7 hrs.  Appears not to be rain leak, just condensation. A/C has been replaced before our ownership. I realize that we humans are 'humidifiers'  LOL but I did not expect water drops/dripping from the A/C  . Will see in the morning if carpet is wet. A/C is off and wiped dry.

We bailed. Inside now. SO SO SO glad this was a driveway test. we would be trying to sleep on the couch with the slide in otherwise. Would NOT be happy campers. M'lady is not pleased as it is now.

 


 40 
 on: December 08, 2017, 09:34:51 pm 
Started by Volkemon - Last post by Denny & Barb
please check the cap caulking.  That is where mine leaked down the front windshield.   

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