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 51 
 on: July 19, 2017, 08:31:49 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by ron.dittmer
That is very good to know Dick.  Thank you for sharing that.

So far our Diamond Shield is holding up real well, but it's not much exposed to the elements either.

Ron Dittmer

 52 
 on: July 19, 2017, 06:39:57 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by ron.dittmer
If you could post some pictures of the iron pipe and the back side of your cover.  They might help us in detecting something out of place.

 53 
 on: July 19, 2017, 05:59:56 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by gandalf42
I appreciate all of the responses, really do as I am hoping for a solution. So thank you each one for taking time to jot your thoughts and suggestions!  ThumbsUp

The drain hole, break in the seal is at the bottom, as far as trying to compress the cover while engaging..have tried it repeatedly with two men pushing on it (3 arms/hands pushing and 1 turning the knob)..and have completely unscrewed the handle and placed the lever at the 10 oclock position (as not totally sure a 9 oclock won't hit the edge of the pipe). I understand that as soon as you turn the handle the locking latch goes all the way to the right (3 oclock position).

Once fully screwed in it either pops out immediately or pops out once you put any light pressure on the cover. The thought may be I need to screw it in even tighter..the one time I tried that...yeah, it popped out.  Cry

I tend to think the locking bar is barely engaging the catch i.e. a misalignment or the locking bar is just too short. Neither would be a customer fix though perhaps Phoenix could ship me a new locking mechanism.

More thoughts or ideas very welcome. Thanks!

 54 
 on: July 19, 2017, 05:38:49 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by ron.dittmer
Hi gandalf42,

As randallandchris said, make certain the drain hole and gasket seam is down.

Maybe this was just covered.  A risk of repetition.

MOST CRITICAL......
"Before" putting the cover back on, unscrew the handle a lot so the back-side lever is far from the cover.  Just before placing the cover against the wall, that lever must be to the "LEFT".  Then start screwing/tightening the handle to the right.  That lever will immediately make a 1/4-turn and stop by hitting the end of the notch in the pipe, seating itself properly.  Don't allow the cover to move....Keep turning the handle to the right until it is won't turn anymore.  Then set the handle and lock with the key.  Remember that if the key won't turn, loosen the handle 1/2 turn and the key will work.  If the cover is not properly aligned, unscrew the handle just enough to allow rotation of the cover.

 55 
 on: July 19, 2017, 05:25:43 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by randallandchris
Try compressing the cover when first turning the latch to engage the slot further.

 56 
 on: July 19, 2017, 04:09:42 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by gandalf42
We got some "repeatability" in that if you open the screw latch all the way to start it can tighten up but from there if you jiggle the cover or continue to tighten it pops off. The locking bar piece jiggles when loose and I thnk its either that or the bar is too short for where it tries to hold and can't take any force or angular motion.

ideas?

 57 
 on: July 19, 2017, 01:41:16 pm 
Started by dickreid1 - Last post by dickreid1
We just got back from the Phoenix plant where the folks a the Elkhart Diamond Shield office just replaced the coverings on the hood, mirrors and cap.  No charge!  Lifetime warranty.

How old is the Shield film? Hood and mirrors 2013.  Cap 2012.  Coach? 53,000 miles at this moment.

The reason for replacement?  Dark blotches getting ever larger around places where bugs had penetrated the film on impact.  We live in South Florida so possibly fungus and mold got in that way and were living off bug juice. It was impossible to do anything to remove the blotches.

At the FMCA Indianapolis rally last week I asked the Diamond Shield home office reps if there was something that could be done.  They visited our coach to see the blotches , checked our warranty status, said yes they could help and arranged to replace the blotchy film when we visited the mother ship in Elkhart.

I truly did not expect anything but getting new film without the bug holes.  The blotches I thought were in the paint finish and hoped they could buff them out and do some retouch work.  This morning after the old film was removed, I was astounded to see that the paint was perfect!  Not a hint of a mark. Now,with the new film installed, everything looks like new. 

This is an amazing testament to the value Phoenix adds to our coaches by protecting them with Diamond Shield films.


 58 
 on: July 19, 2017, 01:27:22 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by randallandchris
Hopefully the break in the cover seal lines up at the bottom for drainage.
Just keep turning and turning should eventually tighten.

 59 
 on: July 19, 2017, 01:21:56 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by randallandchris
Just bought a new tire and rotated spare to front.  Nice to have new rubber up there, had poor toe so wore unevenly.
Wondering how the spare's studs are attached.  Tech said they torqued nuts to 140# and surprised they didn't strip out.  Hope I never need to remove them.

 60 
 on: July 19, 2017, 01:20:58 pm 
Started by gandalf42 - Last post by gandalf42
Well, I got it off OK but I cannot get it to latch back on.  pulling hair out Looking at the mechanism it should be a simple process. After many tries it only caught and tightened some a couple of times... but the cover would rock and if you put any pressure on the cover and it would pop off. Why is this so hard??

Interesting observations: Although the chassis came with Hankook tires, the spare is Michelin. The spare tire rim is all scratched up..no idea what caused that but had to be done at the factory.

The tire cover has a shallower fiberglass extension at the top and bottom..not clear why as the open space around the tire is the same all the way around.

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