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 51 
 on: March 25, 2015, 05:57:29 pm 
Started by bobojay - Last post by Joseph
The Lincoln town car is an example of how things can change. They were going to stop production of this model and announced the last years production for any company wanting them. However the Livery services went nuts. Ford motor CEO Alan Mulally and the BOD's were convinced, they shut down production for one year, moved the line and updated the tooling.  One never knows!

The F series has some perks, one being they can use the higher performance V10 or a Power stroke Diesel. The Diesel wouldn't be as loud in the F series so that's a plus as well for Diesel fans. It also has drawbacks, one being length. With the F series the over all length changes on all models of any brand using it.

 52 
 on: March 25, 2015, 05:29:37 pm 
Started by bhgareau - Last post by bhgareau
I contacted Kermit who quickly pointed me in the right direction. It ended up being a blown fuse up front where the Phoenix installed accessories tie into the Ford electrical system. Replaced the fuse and all is well.

 53 
 on: March 25, 2015, 03:46:07 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by Bob Mahon
If you decide to not go with the full body paint, I very strongly suggest you NOT have the decals applied to the top-front of the fiberglass cap. It will catch a lot of sun and eventually crack and/or peel (as it did on my 2 previous units). When we bought our 2552S new in 2011, I had the factory remove them but you can see an outline of where they were. If you have it built, specify no decal in that area.

 54 
 on: March 25, 2015, 03:12:10 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by ron.dittmer

1. I feel insulated (double pane) windows are worth the price.

3. In reviewing the forum, I have not found much conversation regarding the quality of P.C.'s full body paint. Pictures can be deceptive regarding a good quality paint process.
Your feedback and opinions will be appreciated.
Happy Motoring
Johnny & Kathey
We have the thermal glass and love it for sound, heat, and cold, and they are effective in all three categories so I "Do" recommend them.

We have the full body paint job and it is now 8 years old.  Keep in-mind our rig stays in a garage when not on trips so I can't say how it holds up from the sun constantly beating on it.  The quality of the paint work is excellent when considering what they are painting.  The different colors meet each other perfectly with clean lines.  You can feel a very smooth clean edge where colors meet but ever so little.  The materials painted vary so the sheen varies.  Some steel, some plastic, some fiberglass, some caulk.  They paint over every irregular surface including seam work.  I don't know how they do it, but it's all aligned from one surface to another so well like a laser beam was involved.  It won't be the finish of a new Chevy, but dang good looking.  There is a little over-spray here and there but very acceptable to me.  Keep in-mind the paint work is only outside.  If you open any door, the jamb will be plain white, including the cab area.  The same for storage compartment jambs, gas door, and other things.  Over the years as our rig has bounced many thousands of miles, the caulk in the seam work flexes ever-so-slightly that there is some fractured paint there.  It is not flaking or loose, and is not gaudy looking....at least not yet.  You'll notice it only if looking for it.

I was very happy to get the full body paint job back then and 8 years later, still feel the same about it.  It looks real sharp.  Back in 2007, I got the paint job 1/3 off the regular price which made the choice easy.

Eight years and counting and no regrets here.

I always thought that even plain white, it would be worth doing.  Paint the RV portion to match the plain white cab up front.  That will keep real easy for cleaning & waxing, and no fading of plastic and such.  White to match the cab white would look most "Production" like, and likely would hold up the best with the sun.  I would think plain white would be significantly cheaper too given the cab is left alone, and no change and details with the different colors either.

 55 
 on: March 25, 2015, 02:49:22 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by JWW
First and foremost, Thanks to all who provide and participate regarding this forum.
My wife and I are currently RVless and spending the time to educate ourselves on the options of B+ and C Class RV's.
We have previously owned 3 Class A Coaches, with the most recent being a 43QBP Tiffin. Decided last fall to downsize so we sold the Bus, and here we are.
The P.C. has made our short list, and we look forward to visiting the factory in the future.
Our favorable floorplan at this point is the 2910D. Will appreciate responses from P.C.owners on a few questions:
1. I feel insulated (double pane) windows are worth the price.
2. I have noticed most units have a single A/C (15,000 btu). I see an option for a second unit is available. 50 amp does not scare us.
3. In reviewing the forum, I have not found much conversation regarding the quality of P.C.'s full body paint. Pictures can be deceptive regarding a good quality paint process.
Your feedback and opinions will be appreciated.
Happy Motoring
Johnny & Kathey

 56 
 on: March 25, 2015, 01:40:01 pm 
Started by bobojay - Last post by ron.dittmer
Ford says they will keep making the E Series cutaways for as long as there is a market for them.   Only the actual Econoline vans will no longer produced.

Don
I would imagine this to be true, but as the tooling gets worn and demand drops, those two factors in combination could prematurely end E350/E450 cut-away production.  It seems the motor home industry could revert back to the 70's, forced to offer smaller B+/C rigs than currently offered.

I grew up in Chicago in the 70's with our neighbor's motor home always parked across the street.  It was built on a long step van, I assume because the cut-away back then could not handle the weight.  The typical class C back then were all made very short, most common on the Dodge, but some on Fords and Chevys too.  Then came the tag axle to make them longer.  Eventually the industry migrated into what we have today, soon to revert back due to fuel economy.

 57 
 on: March 25, 2015, 12:57:41 pm 
Started by TomHanlon - Last post by TomHanlon
I like that they use level sensors external to the tanks rather than inside, so there is no fouling.  The outdoor/indoor temp feature is a nice touch too.

I like that also. The big thing to me is not reading somewhere between 1/3 and 2/3 or the black between 2/3 and full. 90% is more to my taste, then I know to dump.

 58 
 on: March 25, 2015, 12:54:12 pm 
Started by TomHanlon - Last post by TomHanlon
Tom, What do you mean by quit working? No level lights lite up, all the level lights lite up?
Do the other lights in the panel for LPG & battery work?


Lpg 2/3
Battery nothing no lights. I am plugged in
Fresh nothing no lights. it is about 1/2 full
Gray 2/3 the drain is open and the tank empty
Black 2/3 I dumped it yesterday but we have used it since. It always read 2/3 now.

 59 
 on: March 25, 2015, 12:31:45 pm 
Started by TomHanlon - Last post by Pax
I like that they use level sensors external to the tanks rather than inside, so there is no fouling.  The outdoor/indoor temp feature is a nice touch too.

 60 
 on: March 25, 2015, 11:54:33 am 
Started by TomHanlon - Last post by keelhauler
Tom, What do you mean by quit working? No level lights lite up, all the level lights lite up?
Do the other lights in the panel for LPG & battery work?

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