Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 10
 51 
 on: November 12, 2017, 08:35:18 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by jatrax
Quote
The coach's shell is undoubtedly stronger and more resistant to twisting stresses without the large slide hole in it.
Personally I think that is one of those things that sounds like it should be true but in the real world it just doesn't make any significant difference.  At least in how the Phoenix Cruiser is built.  The exterior walls are just a 1.5" sandwich with fiberglass on the outside and foam inside.  Cutting holes in that sandwich does not significantly reduce the structural integrity.

I live inside the national forest and most of the roads are gravel or un-maintained deteriorating asphalt, I have seen no issue with squeaks or rattles beyond what we hear on the interstate.  You might ask Kermit if he thinks there is any significant additional stiffness without the slide.  He is the only one who would actually know.  My opinion is there is some, but in the real world not enough to make any difference.  Much of the strength is actually the interior cabinet work which is secured to both the floor and side panels thus tying everything together.

There are reasons to not want a slide but I think structural integrity is not one of them.  They have been putting slides into RVs for many years with no issues.

PS.  Most of the gravel roads I travel on are actually in better shape than many of the interstates as far as potholes, cracks, bumps and such causing rattles.  Of course Jeep trails are another story.

I am a little jealous about your 4x4, I saw two of those at the factory and thought they looked awesome!  My copilot nixed the idea before I even said it. Wink

 52 
 on: November 12, 2017, 07:28:49 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by RVCamping
Thanks for the warm welcome Jatrax. I agree with you on the impressive difference that a slide can make, my concern however is structural in nature. The coach's shell is undoubtedly stronger and more resistant to twisting stresses without the large slide hole in it. We opted for the 4x4 chassis and we will occasionally be going "off pavement", think gravel roads not jeep trail. Will that type of usage accelerate the squeaks, rattles, jamming and water leaks that slides are known for? Would it be better to just go w/o the slide for the added stiffness and less problems? Comments are welcome from those that have driven these types of roads and have experience with the toll it takes on the coach.
Joining the PCTC will definitely happen soon after our rig is delivered in April. - Dick

 53 
 on: November 12, 2017, 06:45:53 pm 
Started by Two Hams in a Can - Last post by jatrax
Here is a 2014 2552 just posted on the Phoenix Cruiser Facebook group:  https://www.facebook.com/groups/322506454518168/permalink/1211322568969881/  Less miles, two years newer.

 54 
 on: November 12, 2017, 06:40:23 pm 
Started by Joseph - Last post by jatrax
Quote
This summer I came across a guy with a 34 foot pusher with the unit  in the basement. Sweet set up and quiet. Im guessing there are some downside or they would be on more units.

I'm guessing mostly cost.  The non-ducted units just bolt through the roof.  The basement units would require ducting, vents and so on.  I am sure the ducted basement units are great but not an option for us with no basement Smile.

When I ordered my rig I wanted 50 amp service.  I was told it was not needed unless I got a second A/C unit, that was the only reason they used it.  With no second unit I had them put the electric hot water onto the other side of the 50 amp.  But that means no electric HW with the generator which is wired only to the first leg.  I assume the same would be true with a second A/C unit it would not work when the generator was supplying power.  Should work on 50 amp shore power or on 30 amp if the correct adapter cord is used assuming both can be run off 30 amp of power.  Which would be doubtful.  Even the 13.5BTU unit uses about 1700 watts, so 2x that = 3400 watts.  And you only have 3600 available.  Might work as long as they do not start at the same time but I doubt it would be a good solution.

You might want to take a good look at the Atwood 18k unit and see if you can get some firmer numbers on what exactly they produce.  Seems to be the only significant upgrade I can find.

 55 
 on: November 12, 2017, 06:25:52 pm 
Started by Joseph - Last post by Joseph
Jatrax, I recall someone here added a second unit to their 2552 and had the 50 service upgrade. Cant swear to it but I thought they said around 2 grand. Im not sure Id want a second unit thinking they will be too close to each other using existing holes.  That and the thought of two units roaring isnt appealing. This summer I came across a guy with a 34 foot pusher with the unit  in the basement. Sweet set up and quiet. Im guessing there are some downside or they would be on more units.

 56 
 on: November 12, 2017, 05:45:12 pm 
Started by Joseph - Last post by jatrax
Just did some more reading on the Atwood 18k model.  They list it as 18k BTU equivalent. Not sure exactly what that means except when I see that terminology it usually means someone is playing with the numbers to make their equipment sound better.  Maybe better insulation or something so more of the cooling is actually used?

Another thought would be can your rig handle the power requirement for a 15k unit?  Probably not a big deal.  I checked at Dometic and their 13.5 k Brisk II uses 1670 watts and the 15k model uses 1725 watts.  Not enough difference to be a problem I would think.

They also list 'cooling capacity' of 3953 watts for the 13.5k unit and 4392 watts for the 15k unit.  You might want to find out exactly what model you have installed now and look it up, perhaps you can find the 'cooling capacity' numbers for your unit for comparison. Looks like the 15k unit produces about 11% more 'cooling capacity'.

If you go the two unit route then I suspect you might need a 50amp rig, so unless that was done at the factory originally I do not think that is a good option.

I cannot find any noise information although the Atwood 16k and 18k brochure brags they are 2x quieter.  http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/air-conditioners-brochure.pdf

 57 
 on: November 12, 2017, 05:19:06 pm 
Started by dshaffer - Last post by TheLuvShack
Try this from etrailer.com
https://www.etrailer.com/question-181906.html

 58 
 on: November 12, 2017, 05:16:59 pm 
Started by dshaffer - Last post by jatrax
On mine the cable is tucked behind the plastic coin holder thingy I think.  At least there is a wire harness and connector there that is not in use.  I'm not sure that all units have the wire harness installed though.

What brake system do you have in the TOAD?

 59 
 on: November 12, 2017, 04:28:58 pm 
Started by dshaffer - Last post by dshaffer
I need to use the Brake Controller connector that should be up under the dash of my 2017 2910T, not finding it. Has anyone used this connector? If yes, can you point me in the right direction? Trying to leverage this wiring to monitor my brake in my Toad.

Thank you.

 60 
 on: November 12, 2017, 04:06:43 pm 
Started by Joseph - Last post by Joseph
Joe, I dont buy into the whats good for Ca may not be the right size for Florida pitch. If that was the case I guess one shouldnt travel outside of there area with a motorhome.  I live in the the desert and we camp in high temps but we also travel across country. Our last trip covered 7,000 miles. We find the 13500isnt up to the task given the min wall thickness and insulation these units have. Im hopeful going to a 15,000 which really isnt that much larger will help.

I think jatrax is prob correct in that there hasnt been much in improvements over the last few years.






Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 10