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 61 
 on: January 13, 2018, 03:49:39 pm 
Started by jwg1199 - Last post by jatrax
Quote
I wished we had duplicate waste valve controls inside our PC.
Ron, somebody with a new build (2017 or 2018) had interior valve switches added at the factory as an option.  I cannot find the post with that in it with a quick search but it was not that long ago I saw it mentioned.

Most likely the factory would supply you with a pair of the same switches if you asked.  This is on my to do list when I get around to it.  As you note it is very inconvenient to run out and open the valves when you are already in the shower.  Smile Smile

 62 
 on: January 13, 2018, 03:02:51 pm 
Started by jas - Last post by jimmer
Volkemon,  I share your year of origin, 2006,  buying mine used from Earl last year.  It also has the single 12 volt battery,  and the first summer we used it the house battery seemd to always be low in spite of driving, and  finally  died that fall.   In taking it to a battery shop for a replacement,  the owner decided to investigate the possible reason for poor performance.  He found with the engine running the battery wasn't being charged, AHA !   Upon further investigation he found a cable near the battery with it's end taped up.      We removed the tape,  attatched  it to the battery,  started the engine,  and  voila !
House battery now charging.
Previous owner must have  "taped it off" for some reason,  maybe for winterizing  ?
So check around good under there,  maybe the cable got  detatched like mine.      If none present maybe it's just a matter of running a cable between the two ?     

 63 
 on: January 13, 2018, 02:39:21 pm 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by ron.dittmer
We had the same problem after re-configuring our galley base cabinet.  I concluded the extra weight in the drawers loosened the original 3 existing screws per drawer rail.  I resolved the issue by adding 6 screws per rail.  So if you can add more screws, that might solve your problem.

 64 
 on: January 13, 2018, 12:54:08 pm 
Started by jas - Last post by Volkemon
In 2006, that switch was an option. However your Ford alternator should still charge your house battery.
Put a digital voltmeter on your house battery, then startup your engine, voltage should go up to 14.2 to 14.7 volts


I don't show the generator/120V power transfer switch. It is automatic as described by Jatrax.
But all the wiring I show in sketch is the same for 2006 except for Inverter & that switch.


Ok... Just went out and tested, the Alternator does not supply power to the coach battery with motor running. Nor does there appear to be any post-OEM wiring present in the Ford engine compartment.  Where might the connection between the house battery and starting battery be? Might be a toasted diode, or relay not working.

I see you added the transfer switch.  Grin

We had to get a golf cart between the RV's to jump start the generator this last fest.
Hi Volkeman,
  Run your V10 engine and use jumper cables to jump-start your generator through your house batteries.  But I wonder if 20 foot jumper cables will be long enough for you.

About that switch on my dash board.  I have it but don't use it when in trouble.  I wouldn't want to hold that switch in for so long a time to get a drained battery charged enough to turn over the generator or the main V10 engine.  Jumper cables accomplish the same but with heavy gauge wire for the option to "jump-start" rather than just modest charging.  And if the problem battery won't hold a charge, you are surely wasting your time holding in that switch for so long a time.  Jumper cables is a sure bet for either situation, a drained battery or a dead battery that won't hold a charge.

20 footers would have worked fine, but we have 15' cables.     But they reached the golf cart.  ThumbsUp

The class C next to us has the switch, and he just had to temporarily depress it to allow his generator to start from the starting battery. Ours wasn't *totally dead* , but at ~9.5 volts, which wasnt enough to turn over the generator.

Per Keelhauler's info, I should be able to charge the house batt from the alternator. THAT would solve my problem, so I am going to investigate a bit further where the malfunction in that circuit may be. Little brisk today, good working weather.  Grin









 65 
 on: January 13, 2018, 09:09:28 am 
Started by jwg1199 - Last post by Doneworking
Here is a tip from the Class B World that I have used for twenty years on several Bs and Cs.   Replace the shower head with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-80760-Kitchen-Spray-Black/dp/B000JFNOAE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1515852304&sr=8-7&keywords=kitchen+sink+sprayer+replacement

They do not drip and when you release the trigger they immediately stop the water flow.  Additionally, the discharge is usually less than a shower head but the pressure of the discharge is greater.  We really prefer the shower they give us compared to a shower head.  

Class Bs normally have smaller tanks than a C and thus every drop saved is .........a drop saved. 

Paul

 66 
 on: January 13, 2018, 07:29:35 am 
Started by jwg1199 - Last post by ron.dittmer
If boondocking and the grey tank is full, open the grey tank valve and then the black tank valve.  This will allow some of the grey water to flow into the black tank giving you some space in the grey tank.  A temporary fix at best, but a good trick if you are in a bind.
Our 2007 PC-2350 also has the 23 gallon grey tank.  jatrax has some great advice.  We almost exclusively boondock and have been practicing his posted method for nearly 11 years now.  When we picked up our new PC at the factory back in 2007, the inspection process included instructions to do so.

Another benefit is that flooding the nasty black tank with wash water is a simple and effective cleansing process for the black tank.  We do what jatrax described every time before we dump, even if only to get wash water in the black tank for maintenance.  Be sure to open the grey water tank first and wait maybe 10 seconds to allow the water to fill the pipes and settle down before opening the black tank valve.  Doing so assures black water stays in the black tank.

I have never measured the grey tank capacity like jwg1199 did, but we deal with the same limitations.  I find it interesting that the tank actually hold just 17 gallons.  Thanks for sharing that jwg1199.  I too wonder why it holds so little.  I'll have to try jwg1199's measuring process and see if our old tank holds only 17 gallons.

Because we always back-flush the grey water into the black tank, I wished we had duplicate waste valve controls inside our PC.  It is always inconvenient to run around the outside of our PC to open and close valves at the worst time when we are not yet fully dressed.  Maybe one day I'll be inspired to get it done.  For our 2350 it is seemingly easy to add the same exact heavy amperage switches with red LED indicators, in the bathroom hidden inside the vanity cabinet just above the door opening.  I would need to run only 3 to 4 feet of heavy gauge wire between switches.  Making such a modification has been on my mind for some time now.  A label maker would also come in handy to provide instruction on the inside of the vanity door.

 67 
 on: January 12, 2018, 11:02:24 pm 
Started by keelhauler - Last post by ron.dittmer
Now that is cool.

In all our travels we ran into only one other PC forum member.  It was 2012 in Glacier National Park in the parking lot for the Many Glacier Hotel viewpoint from across the lake as shown.  I wish I could remember who it was.  We met the woman.  Her husband was not present.  We were staying in the Rising Sun campground, they were staying in the Saint Mary campground.  We tried to find them a day or two later at their campsite but we were not successful.


 68 
 on: January 12, 2018, 06:57:10 pm 
Started by keelhauler - Last post by keelhauler
We pulled in yesterday at the Corps of Engineers campground at a lock on the Caloosahatchee River near Ft Myers ,FL.
Today Barry and Sue arrived in their 2551  and  Fred & Joan (fandj) pulled in with their 2552.

It's a first for me to camp with two other active PC members at such a small campground.

Almost like a  FL reunion.

 69 
 on: January 12, 2018, 03:52:14 pm 
Started by jwg1199 - Last post by jatrax
Quote
P S. We have never had a back up ever.
On the 2910 the grey tank is 35 gal and the black tank is 23 gal.  On the 2552 it is opposite, only 23 gal on the grey and 35 on the black.  Assuming the specification numbers on the Phoenix website are correct.

So one might extrapolate from those numbers that Phoenix is using the same two tanks on all models but on some the larger is used for grey and on others it is used for the black.

If I had a preference I would say 35 grey / 23 black would be much more workable than the 23 grey / 35 black on my rig.

@jwg1199 not sure why the tank is filling so quickly per your measurements.  Maybe not all the water was out of the tank via the Sani-Con?  I wonder if the 'level' of the rig makes any difference in how much water the pump can get out.  If the outlet is on the high side of a lean maybe not everything runs out?  Just speculation, I have never tested the volume on ours.

 70 
 on: January 12, 2018, 03:45:01 pm 
Started by jwg1199 - Last post by jatrax
The 2552 specs indicate a 23 gallon grey tank.

I agree with @jwg1199, about the only thing I dislike about the rig is that the grey tank is simply too small.  Two showers and some dish washing and it's time to empty.  I understand everything is a compromise and space under the rig for the tanks is fixed and there are lots of other things already in the road.

There are a couple of things that you can do to help:
1) If boondocking and the grey tank is full, open the grey tank valve and then the black tank valve.  This will allow some of the grey water to flow into the black tank giving you some space in the grey tank.  A temporary fix at best, but a good trick if you are in a bind.

2) If you are at a spot with sewer hookups you can leave the macerator hose (or the slinky hose if you use that) hooked up and the grey valve open.  You might have to bump the pump switch a couple of times to get water flowing but after that it will (usually) siphon on it's own.  I understand the macerator on older models actual works better at this, on the newer models it does not always siphon without a kickstart.  You should close the grey valve a day before leaving so that you can dump and flush as usual with a full grey tank to flush out after dumping the black tank.  Note, you should never do this with the black tank.

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