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 on: April 19, 2016, 03:58:38 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by ron.dittmer
You ask an interesting question Fred.

Yes, every PC made in the past 10-12 years has a power transfer switch.  It is a gray electrical box, maybe 8" x 8" x 3" tall, typically located in the house, just above the generator.  At least that is where ours is, inside our no-slide front dinette bench seat.

Now you have me scratching my head too......When on pole-power or generator-power, the outlets inside get their power from those two sources via that power transfer switch.  But how 110v from the inverter is disabled, I don't know.  Maybe it's all common, 110v coming from the power transfer switch being back-fed into the 110v output of the inverter.

ADDING:  Oh, I see Barry has an explanation.  He beat my reply by seconds.  So the inverter has the smarts to shut down it's on 110v generation when being supplied by another source.

 on: April 19, 2016, 03:54:20 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by Barry-Sue

You have all the 120VAC single source combinations correct.  As far as shore power and the generator operation there is a transfer switch that will disconnect the shore power if the generator is started.  A monitor within the inverter will allow the inverter to provide 120VAC only if there is no other source of 120VAC and the inverter is turned on.

The transfer switch for shore power/generator power is located on the angled wall behind the driver's seat.


 on: April 19, 2016, 03:49:09 pm 
Started by Pax - Last post by ron.dittmer

Please PM me with the address where you PC is located so I can fly out from O'Hare, steal the battery while you are sleeping, ship the battery home from your local UPS store, then fly back home.  When you PM me, I would also appreciate the location of your nearest UPS store.

Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

In all seriousness, it is quite interesting to read how battery technology is coming along.  What costs $4000 today will cost $400 once they figure out how to manufacture them cheap enough to be competitive.  Electric cars will be the #1 benefactor.

 on: April 19, 2016, 03:32:49 pm 
Started by fandj - Last post by fandj
I do not have my PC unit yet but I have a question as to 110 volt power.  It is my understanding 110 volt power is available from 3 different sources, (1) shore power from the campground pedestal, (2) generator, and (3) inverter power.   110 volt power can only be provided to one point by one source at any given time to prevent electrical failure.  Am I correct that if the motorhome is connected to shore power that all 110 volt outlets and appliances requiring 110 volt power will be supplied from shore power?  If no shore power is available and the generator is running will all 110 volt outlets and appliances be supplied from the generator?  If neither shore or generator power is available will the inverter supply power to only certain 110 volt outlets (no AC, no microwave, and no 12 volt converter)?

I think I recall reading an automated switch is installed between shore and generator power. my question is if shore power is being supplied can the generator be started and if so does the shore power get disconnected and the generator allowed to supply power?  Is there a similar automated switch that prevents the inverter from supplying any power if either shore or generator power is present?

All these options has my head spinning, can someone explain how these various scenarios are handled? Help


 on: April 19, 2016, 02:06:33 pm 
Started by Pax - Last post by Chihuly
Yes. Sounds crazy up front and it is not for everybody but so far I couldn't be happier. I do admit I could have gotten by with 200 amps of battery just fine because I have yet to ever drop below 68% of my capacity and I don't conserve in anyway like I used to with my lead acid 6 volts. That's also running in the cold with the heater running all night, Watching the big sceen, microwaving popcorn, what ever. The other BIG seller for me was the weight reduction. I had 4, 6 volt batteries I think they weighed 240 lbs. My new batteries weigh right around 100 lbs and have almost twice the usable capacity of my 6 volt batteries. I would have had to have around 360 lbs, of lead acid batteries to equal what I have now.
One last Kudos to PC with a little anti freeze in my shower drain and ran some thru the mercerator pump along with a some in the grey and Black I was able to hang out in temps to -6 F with no problems. The only thing that you have to watch is the propane isn't  very efficient at those temps and if your tank falls below 1/4 you will run out of propane.

 on: April 19, 2016, 10:47:35 am 
Started by Jan and Dick - Last post by ron.dittmer
You'll want to read THIS post on the failure and replacement of a Sanicon pump.

Once you have a new pump ready to go, changing it is very easy.  Just be certain that you get positive and negative right.  I got it backwards the first time when connected red-to-red and black-to-black.  I got a lot of action, but nothing coming out.  I switched the wires and problem was solved.  To this day I can't understand why the red wire would go to ground and the black wire to hot.

One other thing I learned changing my pump.  I have the old style cheap perforated strap that holds up the pump, not the big wide, nice looking fabricated band.  When I installed the pump, I thought I would adjust the strap to hold the pump more firmly.  BAD IDEA for the upward force created a small leak where the pump assembly is attached to the motor home.  It is sensitive to such forces.

We went on a 4 week vacation last year and the new pump operated perfectly.  I consider it a proven alternative and save ~$400.

 on: April 19, 2016, 10:39:13 am 
Started by Pax - Last post by ron.dittmer
I have Lithium LiPo batteries. I installed a 400 amp hour  battery. Cost is generally around a $1000 per 100 amps hr. of battery installed.
Are you saying the battery cost you $4000?

 on: April 19, 2016, 09:39:13 am 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by ragoodsp
Since nearly new I have had a significant rattle in my 2012 3100.  Despite my endless efforts I can not isolate it to anything but the slide topper.  The rattle is very loud and comes from the top section of the slide and when I close the drivers door I can hear the spring rattle so I am 90% sure that is where everything originates from, on rough roads it is really loud.  I called Kermit and he suggested I just hit the slide button (out) to hopefully place a little tension on the spring, no change.  I took the coach to a local dealer since I have noticed the slide  seems to be somewhat off center in the opening (can see like 1/2" more coach wall trim on the right side vs's left side when facing the slide from outside), I'm wondering if one side of the topper might be taking more of the load and the other side is getting looser as the slide walks to the left more over time?  Dealer claimed the slide was installed off center in the opening and he could not center it with out significant work that he was not willing to tackle. I have been told that there is not much adjustment on the topper spring in that if you tighten it to much you risk ripping the fabric when fully extended?  Planning to take to another dealer soon to see what if perhaps the topper spring is broken or can be adjusted some, rattle is driving me insane!   Would love to hear from anyone else who might have a rattling topper?  Does seem to be common if you look on the web...Thanks

 on: April 19, 2016, 12:23:35 am 
Started by Pax - Last post by Chihuly
Just to answer a few questions. I have Lithium LiPo batteries. I installed a 400 amp hour  battery. Cost is generally around a $1000 per 100 amps hr. of battery installed. Keep in mind a 100 amp LiPo is equivalent to around 200 amps of lead acid batteries because of there low discharge abilities. They will still read above 12.8 volts at 98% discharge. There is no harm in discharging to 98%.
I installed a little larger Inverter than came with the PC and I even use the Convection oven for  thirty min. and barely use 10% of my total cap. Cost seems outrageous at first but when you compare over time LiPo should beat lead acid or AGM batteries if they perform to what the manufacture says they should. They have not been out long enough yet to see the real deal.
   I should warn you about some companies out of Florida selling drop in replacements, they should be avoided. It took me letters to the BBB in Tampa and finally I had to contact the Attorney general before getting my refund. Look for companies with good reputations and willing to stand behind their products. I finally purchased mine from a company called Starlite Solar out of Yuma. They installed them for me which I had originally planned on doing myself. With what I learned from them I am glad I had them installed and walk me thru it.  I was going to make some mistakes I would have regretted later. Add a little Solar and you can go and go and go.  I put 130 hours on my Gen before getting my Bats and Solar. I haven't put an hour on it since. I have even contemplated taking it out.
   I am not on my computer much these days but I will try to check in for follow up questions if any. Please be patient I just got home from 5 months on the road and now I am trying to catch up.

 on: April 18, 2016, 05:38:47 pm 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by Barry-Sue
While using our Apollo microwave/convection oven this winter we suddenly lost power to it.  Everything else in the PC was fine.  After removing it from over the stovetop (thanks to Bobby's instruction), and removing the metal cabinet we noticed a black spot on the white mesh cloth (see pic below).  We pulled the sleeve back to expose a High Temperature Fuse.  We checked wire continuity on each side of the fuse and it was fine.  We then jumpered the fuse and this restored power.  We now knew we had a dead fuse that needed to be replaced.

We called the Apollo Service Center and their technician confirmed that the temperature fuse was at fault.   He ordered a new High Temperature Fuse ($30.00 very over priced) for us.  We replaced it and all is fine.

The part that we replaced was a microtemp G5A00 rated at 120 degrees Celsius. The new fuse that was sent to us was a microtemp G5A01 rated at 152 degrees Celsius.

Additional research indicated that the normal life span for this type of device is between 5-6 years.  We will order a spare (less than $2.00) before our next trip.

The Apollo technician was very helpful.  He said if the oven is in a "dead condition", there are three safety components that need to be checked.
    1.  A 20 AMP, 120 volt fuse located on the top right rear corner (you can see this in our pic).
    2.  The magnetron thermostat which is mounted to the side of the magnetron tube.
    3.  The High Temperature Fuse (this was our failure).

Barry and Sue

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