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 61 
 on: July 22, 2016, 12:39:06 pm 
Started by aimee - Last post by Rosy Phoenix
Hello from beautiful Northern California. We are the proud new owners of a 2004 Phoenix Cruiser, model 2550 with slide out bed/couch in the middle and full bath in the rear. We could not love it more, unless it was brand new! Will be picking the brains of all owners to guide us on our journey to update out cruiser, the first of which is removing carpet to install vinyl. Special thanks to Aimee for helping us join the forum.  We are retired, grandparents to 7 and can't wait to hear about other cruisers adventures.

 62 
 on: July 22, 2016, 11:37:15 am 
Started by aimee - Last post by aimee
Almost an hour walking through side by side a Phoenix Cruiser with a typical production unit.  Earl and Kyle knocked it out of the park!!!

https://youtu.be/B_-4Wdt9-dI


 63 
 on: July 22, 2016, 11:21:21 am 
Started by aimee - Last post by aimee
VIN: 1fdwe35s94ha7180

Year: 2004

Model: Phoenix 2350

Mileage: 23,700 miles

Location: Crystal Lake, IL

Description:

6 new tires!!!

2004 PHOENIX CRUISER MODEL 2350 W/ ELECTRIC SLIDE OUT
ONE OWNER
THIS UNIT IS IN LIKE NEW CONDITION WITH ONLY 23,700 ORIGINAL MILES
BUILT WITH PRIDE IN THE USA ON A FORD E-350 CHASSIS.
POWERFULL V-10   6.8L TRITON ENGINE
THIS HAS ALL BELLS AND WHISTLES INCLUDING:
*ONAN MICRO QUIET GENERATOR
*DUO-THERM ROOFTOP A/C
*ELIXIR POWER CONVERTER/CHARGER
*FISHER DVD HOME THEATER SYSTEM
*FLAT SCREEN TV W/ SURROUND SOUND
*ELECTRIC STEP
*ELECTRIC FOLD OUT COUCH
*AWNING
*COMBINATION MICROWAVE/CONVECTION OVEN
*THE REFRIGERATOR CAN OPERATE OFF OF ELECTRIC OR LP GAS (SO WHEN YOUR DRIVING AND THE GENERATOR ISNT RUNNING YOU CAN STILL HAVE THE FRIDGE KEEPING YOUR FOOD COLD)
*THE HOT WATER HEATER ALSO RUNS OFF ELECTRIC OR LP GAS (NO NEED TO WAIT FOR THE WATER TO WARM UP TO SHOWER WHEN YOU REACH YOUR DESTINATION)
*THE FURNACE IS LP AND HAS A DC BLOWER (THAT MEANS IF YOUR IN WOODS SOMEWHERE WITH NO ELECTRIC, YOU DON'T HAVE TO RUN THE GENERATOR ALL NIGHT BECAUSE THE FURNACE BLOWER WILL WORK OFF THE AUXILIARY BATTERY)
*HEAVY DUTY TRAILER HITCH (NEVER BEEN TOWED WITH)
* HITCH/HAUL METAL PLATFORM THAT FITS IN THE TRAILER HITCH AND IS GREAT FOR HAULINGING THE GRILL OR BIKES OR ???
*AUXILIARY OUTDOOR SHOWER (GREAT FOR HOSING OFF SCRUFFY PETS OR KIDS)
THIS RV HAS BEEN PAMPERED SINCE THE DAY IT WAS BOUGHT.
IT WAS ALWAYS SERVICED AT THE FORD DEALER AND WE HAVE ALL SERVICE RECORDS. IT RUNS AND DRIVES EXCELLENT AND THE A/C BLOWS ICE COLD
BRAND NEW DEEP CYCLE AUXILIARY BATTERY  AND LIKE NEW TIRES.
IT'S NOT TOO LATE TO START MAKING MEMORYS THAT WILL LAST A LIFETIME. GET THOSE KIDS OR GRANDKIDS OUT FROM IN FRONT OF THAT COMPUTER SCREEN AND INTO SOME REAL LIFE ADVENTURES. OR BETTER YET, LEAVE THE KIDS AT HOME AND TAKE THE LITTLE WOMAN ON A ONCE IN A LIFETIME TRIP ACROSS THE COUNTRY.
THIS MODEL IS STILL BEING SOLD AND THE NEW ONES COST OVER $92,000
NADA PUTS THE VALUE OF THIS ONE AT $36,250.00 AS OF 7/2/16
*******THIS ONE IS PRICED TO SELL AT $31,500.00*******
FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CALL 8I5-69O-O5I9
THERE IS ALSO ALOT OF ADDITIONAL INFORMATION INCLUDING PRICES OF SIMILAR UNITS THAT HAVE SOLD RECENTLY ON THEIR WEB SITE @ "WWW.PHOENIXUSARV.COM"



Asking Price: $29,500

Contact:   Jon 815-690-0519








 64 
 on: July 22, 2016, 10:37:46 am 
Started by Dale and Cindy - Last post by ron.dittmer
Hi Cindy and Dale,


I would start troubleshooting by going on the roof and spin the fan by hand.  Make sure it spins freely.  If not, inspect for something like a twig to even something wound around the shaft of the fan, check for clearance between the blade and everything else.

If the blade spins freely, then you can look into the next possibility.  Maybe the switch that turns the fan on/off when opening and closing the cap has malfunctioned.  I am not sure where that switch is located in our fan.  If you can get to it, make sure it is aligned right and clicks on/off when the cap opens and closes.  Maybe the switch is good but got loose and is not

There is no need to go on the roof. Just pop the screen off from inside, like when cleaning the fan/screen. You can do everything from inside. Ron must have one of the old style fans that required removing a bunch of screws to remove the screen.


Tom, Our rig is nine years old.  I did not realize the latest Fantastic fans have screens that are easily removed from inside.  That is so very convenient.

DON'T go on the roof as I stated in my previous post.....assuming you have a removable screen.

 65 
 on: July 22, 2016, 10:34:00 am 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by ron.dittmer
A scratch remover or polish, each with such small abrasives that restore a "Shine" when complete, might remove the spots.  The trouble is that the shine will likely mismatch the rest of the rig.  Like others say, if you can remove with a cleaner that won't change the shine, that will be best.

 66 
 on: July 22, 2016, 10:31:29 am 
Started by Dale and Cindy - Last post by TomHanlon
Hi Cindy and Dale,


I would start troubleshooting by going on the roof and spin the fan by hand.  Make sure it spins freely.  If not, inspect for something like a twig to even something wound around the shaft of the fan, check for clearance between the blade and everything else.

If the blade spins freely, then you can look into the next possibility.  Maybe the switch that turns the fan on/off when opening and closing the cap has malfunctioned.  I am not sure where that switch is located in our fan.  If you can get to it, make sure it is aligned right and clicks on/off when the cap opens and closes.  Maybe the switch is good but got loose and is not

There is no need to go on the roof. Just pop the screen off from inside, like when cleaning the fan/screen. You can do everything from inside. Ron must have one of the old style fans that required removing a bunch of screws to remove the screen.


 67 
 on: July 22, 2016, 09:59:09 am 
Started by JOHN - Last post by ron.dittmer
CLICK HERE to watch the video.

 68 
 on: July 22, 2016, 09:43:08 am 
Started by Dale and Cindy - Last post by ron.dittmer
Hi Cindy and Dale,

Joe R made a similar reference.  I had wondered if something hardly noticed like a thin twig, lodged itself up there.  The fan will collect debris when the cap is wide open, especially if not running on a higher speed.  It is one reason why I don't like to leave either vent wide open when unattended for extended periods.

I would start troubleshooting by going on the roof and spin the fan by hand.  Make sure it spins freely.  If not, inspect for something like a twig to even something wound around the shaft of the fan, check for clearance between the blade and everything else.

If the blade spins freely, then you can look into the next possibility.  Maybe the switch that turns the fan on/off when opening and closing the cap has malfunctioned.  I am not sure where that switch is located in our fan.  If you can get to it, make sure it is aligned right and clicks on/off when the cap opens and closes.  Maybe the switch is good but got loose and is not activated.

Oops, I see keelhauler just beat me with a similar recommendation about that switch.  Make sure it is working, one way or the other.

 69 
 on: July 22, 2016, 09:25:44 am 
Started by Dale and Cindy - Last post by keelhauler
Here is what always goes bad on mine. The little switch ion the roof that opens when you open the vent. Spray WD40 on it and make sure it goes in and out.

 70 
 on: July 22, 2016, 09:07:04 am 
Started by Dale and Cindy - Last post by Joe R
You say the fuse is good. Depending on your mechanical ability you need to do some trouble shooting. There are four electrical components that need to be checked. I do not know the precise way the unit is wired, you will need a test light or a dc volt meter to check for voltage. First you find the power source wire at the fan and check for voltage. now the four components are. 1) the motor  2) fan speed switch 3) the thermostatic control 4) the switch in the lid cover that stops the fan when it is closed. As I said I do not know the way the fan is wired. You start at the power wire and see if you have voltage to the first component going into it an out of it. follow the wire to the next component and do the same. If you have voltage all the way to the motor that is what's bad.
Now a mechanical failure could be as simple as the fan blade slipping off the shaft. Or some critter brought in something that bound the fan up in the shroud.

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