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 71 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:22:59 am 
Started by JOHNNYandVICKI.O - Last post by ron.dittmer
I would call the factory and get their thought on what may be wrong.

In the mean time, are you sure water is not leaking in when you are using on-board water?  Maybe you are turning off the on-board pump before seeing water on the floor.  I would fill the fresh water tank, turn on the pump and leave it on for hours while inside for the evening.  Listen for it turning on for no reason.  Maybe you have a high pressure plumbing leak.

If the check valve in the system is not working right, shore water would be filling your fresh water tank.  If that is the case, maybe your low pressure on-board fresh water tank system has a leak in it when the tank is over-filled.  A slow leak may flow inside the rig before over-flowing out the vent in the filler door.  Check to see if when on shore water, your fresh water tank is mysteriously filling up.

Just tossing out ideals here.

 72 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:13:28 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
My dripping appears to come from a weep hole in the motor housing, but I should look closer at the area to confirm.

 73 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:13:03 am 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by 2 Frazzled
What mapping software does everyone use?

I've gotten into using Google Earth because we had it on the computers but we need signal for that and frequently don't have any. I drop little yellow pins on sites we would like to visit,  The yellow pins are how we planned our route from Ohio to Acadia, Maine. I dropped the pins, zoomed out, and there was a trail of yellow pins that we followed. We didn't get to hit them all, but we caught a lot of them. I'll be dropping pins for all the California suggestions and we'll see if the route becomes obvious. I can also then get directions from one pin to another and get an idea of mileage and drive time (right click a pin and select "directions from here", do the same for the pin you want "directions to here").

After we've visited a spot, I go back and either change the yellow pins if we already had it marked or drop a new pin for places we hadn't tagged yet: green tents where we've camped, food signs for good restaurants, blue stars for civil war stuff, little houses for places we've toured, etc. They have lots of little icons and you can add your own. I put brief info into the description field and the dates we were there. NOTE: if you go this route, consider leaving the pin name blank as it clutters up your map. I know Google Earth does a lot more but this is as far as I've gotten with it.

So does anyone have a better solution?

 74 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:11:32 am 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by AMW
Thank you Nancy, I copied all this down and put it on my "to do" list.  Going to JoAnn's this week for the materials.  Yes, photos please. nod

 75 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:09:14 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by 2 Frazzled
Ron, we had dripping but it came from the bayonet connector. One of the bayonets had cracked which allowed that collar to slide farther and farther away from the pump. The farther it went, the more it leaked. Several others online have had the same problem. I mention this so you can eyeball that bayonet. I don't know if all those parts come with a new macerator pump. If not, and one of those pieces is cracked, you'll want to order that bayonet kit also (with new seals). We had to use an extending mirror to see the cracks.

 76 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:05:19 am 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by 2 Frazzled
Wow! Great info everyone. Thank you to all. We actually have signal for a few days so some frantic mapping will be going on and we'll be checking out all your suggestions. I've wanted to see the Monterey Bay Aquarium for many years so that is a definite stop and while we weren't sure where we wanted to go, we knew before we looking that we want to dodge LA.


 77 
 on: October 20, 2014, 08:27:07 am 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by David J. Rotelle
Hello Nancy,

We had similar fabric curtains in our previous Motorhome and I agree they were easier to open and close than the pleated. Could you post some pictures of the curtains you made?

Thank you,
Dave

 78 
 on: October 20, 2014, 07:22:33 am 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by Carol
Wow, Nancy, what an awesome job (both the doing and the describing).  You could probably do a little custom-order business with that kind of skill.  Sewing is becoming a lost art.  Cheer

 79 
 on: October 20, 2014, 12:46:35 am 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by gl1500
It was fast and relatively easy.  Remove the screws from the side wall that holds the curtain in place.  Remove the little lock on the track on each side and slide the curtain out.  Remove the hangars (they are just pinched shut and easily opened.)  Measure from the lock on the track to the center of the track (ours had a black mark at center) on each side. Ours was 57" on each side.  You will need to make the width to this measurement and perhaps a few inches more for fulness.  Make the length the same as the original curtain or whatever length you like.  I used quilt bias tape for all the edges so did not need to add extra for seam allowances. The quilt bias is wider than the usual " bias binding.  Using this will speed up the job but you can make seams all around. We bought a  leather punch from the hardware store to make the holes for the " grommets at the top and on the sides where the screws go.  Grommet kits are available with a little tool to install at Hancock Fabric and probably JoAnn's.   Camping World sells extra hangars (12 to a box) but be sure to take one hangar with you to  match up for the  same kind as in the PC.  Sew the Velcro to the middle edges of the panels; I put one strip on the side facing the RV and one on the other panel facing the windshield.  This position makes it easier to close them because they will lap over . The original curtain has one grommet every 10" but this is too far apart for material so a few more are needed to make it hang nicely. Do not make the width to the full extended size of the original curtain or you will have way too much fabric.  Once the grommets are in,  put in the hangars, pinch them closed, and reinstall in the track.  Put in the track lock and  the screws and you are done.  You won't need the long plastic rod because the material opens and closes easily by hand. I divided the total width into two uneven sizes so that the wider was on the driver side and the smaller one on the passenger side.  This meant that we could close the curtains near the steering wheel instead of dead center; that left less bulk on the passenger side to get in the way of the little "table" that is on the 2551 by the door.  If your material is real thin, you might need to add some interfacing at the top and sides for the grommets.  I used a white silky blackout material with sage green binding and it looks like it "belongs" . it is so much easier to open and close than the original.   If you have any questions, I would be happy to help.  Nancy

 80 
 on: October 19, 2014, 08:35:24 pm 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by AMW
I'm interested in doing this as well, although I don't need blackout, I just want a real curtain for night privacy that's easier to use than the stock pleated unit that came with the PC.  So if I understand this right, you removed the pleated unit and used the original hangers and track for your new curtain.  I also assume you made the new curtain the same length.  I was thinking I would have to use traditional drapery pleating tape and drapery hooks, but from your description it sounds like I won't have to go to all that trouble.

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