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 on: July 18, 2014, 10:30:26 am 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by ragoodsp
Skipper.....thank you very much for outlining my options and approaches.  I will do exactly what you have outlined prior to going to Ford.  I hope the same equipment that your were able to untilize is available here!    ths.

 on: July 17, 2014, 08:37:52 pm 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
We're now in the Santa Cruz Redwoods for a two week get-away.  It's only about 50 miles from our home on the Monterey Bay coast, but it feels like a different world.  We love walking with Sparky through the big trees.
--Sharon and Bruce

 on: July 17, 2014, 12:40:09 pm 
Started by Carol - Last post by Janey
Looks like we've sold our rialta. I love your moho - think I'm owing to use some of your ideas. I do want the slide out.  Very nice planning.

 on: July 17, 2014, 10:57:50 am 
Started by ColoRockiesFan - Last post by racephoto
Nope, no air bags.  Not sure what may have been done to the suspension as I bought it used, but the seller didn't talk up any upgrades and one would think he would have.  I love the high ground clearance.....I'd be terrified with some of the rigs out there and their low ground clearances.  Being fairly short, when I level it, I sometimes have to use a stepstool at the door,  but it's a small price to pay.  Thanks for the compliments on the pics.


 on: July 17, 2014, 08:01:44 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by ron.dittmer
With our 2007 E350-V10 & current day Torqshift transmission, towing our 4200 pound Jeep Liberty, I have yet to be worried over the drivetrain except when engine braking.  The RPMs can sometimes get very close to red-line.  At my second oil change I switched to full synthetic oil in hopes to provide a little extra edge to my concerns.

Whether engine braking or climbing, the Triton series engine, V10 or V8, is designed to rev very high compared to the GM engines.  As a result, the engines can get loud which can make you feel you are over-stressing something.  But in reality, all is well.

I personally love the tow haul mode.  I called Ford twice over the years, asking if Tow-Haul could be reprogramed to be "On" by default, but I get the same disappointing answer.

As Barry said, try not to loose momentum when driving in the mountains.  When you do, just take it slow (or slower) in a lower gear.  You want the rig to rev high with the least amount of throttle.  Once in a great while you will simply find yourself at very high RPMs in a very low gear, going very slow.  As uncomfortable as it might feel, the drivetrain is designed to work just like that.  As always, give consideration to the other drivers around you.

In answer to your Tow-Haul mode question... It changes the shift points under both conditions, accelerating and decelerating.

 on: July 16, 2014, 08:02:32 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Barry-Sue

We took our 2008 2350 through the Rockies in 2010.  We were towing a 2500 pound car and were able to top Vale Pass at around 55 MPH.  I never use the tow/haul mode.

One thing I learned about driving in the mountains is to keep your speed up. Don't wait for a downshift before applying additional throttle.   Once you lose your speed it is hard to get it back.

Perhaps a more experienced mountain driver can provide addition information on how to approach some long grades.


 on: July 16, 2014, 06:36:54 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Doneworking
I am curious about others experience with the Ford vehicles when in mountains.   Our 2350 is pulling a Jeep Cherokee which weighs about 4044 curb pounds.   I am surprised how the V10 seems to really pull down on mountain passes, granted they are Rocky Mountain passes where I have experienced this and I am towing.  After one trip in June (and planning another in August) we will probably just unhook the Jeep and my wife will drive it up the passes.  We will be boondocking above 10,000 feet so I am not talking hills LOL

Here is my question.   Do most PC owners use the tow/haul mode which, as I understand it, just changes the shifting points, or do they not use it and just use the downshift from the standard drive position, as well as engine speed to maintain momentum.  Our last Class C  was a 450 and this is a 350 and we were not towing.  I was down to 25 mph going up Bobcat Pass in Northern New Mexico last month.   Maybe that is just the way it is?  Our most previous RV was a Roadtrek Class B 210 with the Chevy 6.0L

ALSO...I have read in some places that the V10 is designed to develop max torgue at 4500-5000 rpms.  Is that correct?   I read on another forum a discussion that indicated that was no problem, but I always hate to "cram" an engine. 

Any experiences, direction or suggestions you could give me would be appreciated. 


 on: July 16, 2014, 04:45:19 pm 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by skipper
Before you take it into Ford, note the speed where you first feel it and accelerate until it goes away (if it ever stops).   Next, see if you get the vibration when the engine and driveline aren't under load, either coasting or going downhill.  Then downshift and make sure the vibration is not engine speed dependent. Next, while you tool down a straight smooth road, have someone walk through the cruiser and listen for the noise from the vibration.  These tests help determine if it's a transmission, engine, or driveline problem.  If the vibration is always present, you probably have a driveline problem.

I think PC outsources the extension work.  Whoever does it adds a 4' section of driveline (on the 2552) to the driveline.  This add on is what caused the problem in my PC.  However, the problem was not the new 4' tube, but the whole driveline.  As delivered, the Ford 2 piece driveline is probably just fine, but when you start messing with it by changing the angles and lengthening it, any out of balance situation can go from unnoticeable to terrible.  Ford is very likely not at fault and the outfit doing the extension really isn't at fault since they probably never drive the extended unit and their 4' section comes balanced, but when everything is combined along with several thousand pounds of payload, it doesn't work right.  At least not on my vehicle.

Unfortunately, if the original owner doesn't complain during the warranty period, you are out of luck.  The good news is once you have identified the problem, it's not too expensive to fix and the fix can be done in a couple of hours if you have the right equipment.

There are 2 fixes:  The best fix is to replace the 3 piece driveline with a 2 piece driveline.  This requires a larger diameter driveline shaft and rebalancing the entire driveline.  This is the most expensive fix because you have to buy a long, large diameter, piece of heavy duty driveline.  It is the best solution because you end up with a straighter shot from the transmission to the rear end, a stronger driveline (beefier part), less parts (one less u joint), and it will provide smoother power due to less flexing (a 4" driveline that long allows for a lot of 'jumping' due to twisting under acceleration).  My thought is PC doesn't do this as standard procedure because it adds cost to the unit and it generally isn't necessary.

The second fix is to pull your entire shaft and put the whole driveline on a balancer using the same angles as found under your PC.  My guy initially put shaft 1 and 2 on the balancer and balanced that part.  Then he put shaft 2 and 3 on and balanced that part.  He did this because he didn't have the spacers required to put the entire 3 part shaft on his balancer.  It's long and most shops don't deal with drivelines this long.  He put the driveline back on the vehicle and drove it and it was far worse than when he started!  He called the company that makes the balancer and they told him he would have to put the entire driveline on the balancer and balance all the shafts as one unit.  He ordered the required extension for his machine and called me when it was ready to go.  Once he got the entire shaft on his machine, he twirled it at the rpms where I like to drive which is 62 mph.   He was able to balance it in a jiffy.  He put the driveline back in my vehicle and we tweaked the vertical distance spacer between the 2nd and 3rd driveshaft and now it 99% better.

If you do have a driveline balancing problem and your Ford dealer is willing to help, they will likely send your driveline out to a specialty shop that just works on drivelines because they don't have a balancer on premises.  They don't see this often enough to justify it or keep personnel trained to use it.  Make sure this specialty shop can balance the entire driveline.  My Ford dealer was going to send it to Mobile.  I called the Mobile shop there and they told me they would balance shaft 1 and 2 and then 2 and 3.  This wouldn't have worked as noted above and would have been a waste of time and money.  Consider asking Ford for spacer plates.  My dealer gave me 4 when they attempted to fix it and we ended up using 3.

My previous post probably has the repair cost and I think it was less than $300???  Not too bad considering I was going to sell the RV if I couldn't get this fixed to my satisfaction.  It was really bothersome to me although the Ford tech who test drove it said he fixed it when he balanced the tires.  If you are planning a trip to the panhandle, I'll fix you up with the guy who did mine.  He was extremely helpful.

Good luck getting it fixed.  Mark

 on: July 16, 2014, 02:47:11 pm 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by ragoodsp
I read all of Skippers  past posts regarding driveline vibration and what he went thru to get to a good ending very interesting. It appears that I have the same vibration in my 2012 3100.  I had a vibration before the Michelin recall and thought perhaps one of the tires had thrown a weight or something.  New Michelins were put on in Feb. and I have now had them reballanced twice and the vibration is still with me!  Seems to be worse in that 62 MPH range.   I guess i will contact Ford and get ready for the dealer run around and finger pointing as to who's responsibility it will be to correct the problem.  Will keep you posted.

 on: July 16, 2014, 12:49:57 pm 
Started by RKS - Last post by RKS
Sorry if I didn't make my initial post clearer, I realize that Ultra low sulfur diesel is the fuel of choice for the Sprinter and not biodiesel, MB specifies that if biodiesel is used, however, that the maximum mixture is 5% or B5, any higher  they claim will cause severe engine damage.  In some areas of the country, as I stated previously owners have not been able to locate ULSD or even B5 but fuel pumps labeled "Biodiesel B5-B20".  It seems more common in the Midwest or areas where there is a strong soybean lobby, although I did read of someone having trouble on I-95 in Virginia.
If you Google Sprinter dealerships in Minnesota you will see that they are still selling them, so I agree that it would be very interesting to hear from someone in that area.
For the record Minn. plans on switching back to B5 for the colder months of the year, have also read that in 2015 they are upping the mixture even higher.

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