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 on: March 19, 2017, 07:36:43 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by jfcaramagno
You can flush out the hot water tank by removing the drain plug, connecting to city water, and turning on the city water supply. I will be adding this step to my de-winter procedure this Spring.

 on: March 19, 2017, 07:21:20 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by Doneworking
I drain the pink stuff out completely, put a couple of gallons of water in the tank and then pump it through all the faucets.  Then, I do like Ron.  I put a couple of cups of bleach in the tank and then fill it up to the rim with the hose turned on full to force as much water as fast as possible down into the tank to agitate the bleach and water together.   Then, I pump some of this solution through every faucet, shut off the pump and leave the bleach solution in there overnight or sometimes even a little longer.  Then, I drain it out completely with the three drain valves.   Then, refill with fresh water and off I am done.  

Unlike Tom, I open the hot water heater bypass valve and fill that tank also with the bleach solution.   By the way, when bypassed and winterized, I leave the drain plug in the tank out of the tank all winter.  Also, I use a wand made for the purpose to thoroughly wash out the tank prior to refilling in the spring.   Now, with the PC aluminum tanks that don't have an anode like the older tanks this is not so much necessary.  In my other rigs over the years, I left the anode out all winter and I rinsed it at the end and beginning of the camping season with the wand sprayer.

I will add further that we do not drink water out of the PC system.  We buy and carry bottled water replenishing it as we use it.  Just got into that habit over thirty years ago and that is we do.   Some of the places we go the water may or may not be to peachy and we figure why take a chance for less than a buck a gallon for generic water from the grocery store.

Pau l

 on: March 19, 2017, 07:10:32 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by TomHanlon
In place of RV antifreeze in the traps you can use windshield washer fluid. It is generally cheaper and you still get protection down to -20. If you are using RV antifreeze in the lines, you are already putting some in the traps. Just saying.

I thought that mold could grow any where it is damp not just in standing water. If there is standing water in the tank, can't the mold grow on the sides and top of the tank?

 on: March 19, 2017, 06:12:44 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by donc13
Just my 2 cents, but if you drain the fresh water tank before storage, the only place mold could grow is the bottom if the tank where thst last bit of water didn't drain out. I also blow the lines out till no more water comes  out and let them sit all winter. I do us RV antifreeze in all traps and over do that so there' some antifreeze in the waste tanks.  Works for me in Colorado.

 on: March 19, 2017, 05:57:11 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by donc13
Good lithium batteries have 2 things going for them:

The are stored and charged where the have room to expand.  That's why the Samsung Note 7 had an issue.  No room to expand, so they distorted... and shorted out internally... thus blew abd caught fire.

They should also have a built in current limiter so they don't overheat.

There's other good ideas such as only use the manufacturer's charger and so forth.
Lithium ion (or otherwise) batteries are perfectly safe as long as they are from a reputable manufacturer and properly used.

 on: March 19, 2017, 04:27:01 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by ron.dittmer
One thing I do a bit different is add the bleach "First" into the fresh water tank, then fill to capacity with fresh water, to the point the solution is shooting out the vent hole.  This way the bleach gets well stirred-in and I maximize the submersion of bleach on the inner walls of the tank.

I realize you hope the driving will splash the solution high enough, but I prefer to flood it up as high as possible.  I do like your idea of driving around and do some quick left/right maneuvers to slosh it higher yet.  That surely would be most effective at full coverage.  With a full tank dripping out the vent hole, just be careful of the bleach solution leaking and then getting air born hitting people and cars around you.  Maybe drive slow down the center of your street in your neighborhood with nothing around to get hit.  I have a stretch of road in my neighborhood perfect for that.

 on: March 19, 2017, 04:23:14 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by swiftboot
Thanks Tom, I believe I was overthinking the procedure, your suggestions are much simpler and just as effective.

 on: March 19, 2017, 03:24:33 pm 
Started by swiftboot - Last post by TomHanlon
I put Clorox into the fresh water tank with some fresh water. I drive a short distance and return home. Then I turn on the water pump. I open the farthest valve from the tank and let it run until it turn clear. Both cold and hot. Then I do the other valves until they run clear. I let it sit for about one hour or so. I drain all the lines and the fresh water tank. I fill and drain the water tank a couple more times until I can't smell the Clorox. Then one more fill. Finally I pump fresh water though the lines until I don't smell anything at each valve. The last thing I do is open the water heater bypass, pump water into it and turn it on. I feel the hot water will kill any thing growing in the heater tank. Now I am ready to clean other things before having a cold one and saying "job well done".

 on: March 19, 2017, 12:15:01 pm 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by jatrax
"Lithium Batteries" should be treated as a generic term.  There is at this time several different chemistries in use.  Some, obviously, less than perfect. Smile    Lithium-Iron is one that is now being used for large battery banks in RV's for example, with good success.   Unfortunately unless the manufacturer explicitly says what chemistry is being used it is difficult to know.

In this case, with only occasional use and the battery itself wrapped in a sealed case I am not concerned.  I am always careful to charge lithium batteries where there is lots of air movement around them.

It should be remembered that jump starting a lead-acid battery is itself a dangerous activity.  And based on my personal experience, lead-acid is far, far more dangerous than lithium.  I've been burned twice by exploding lead-acid batteries.  The difference is that lithium is used in myriad small devices that we all consider 'safe' and lead-acid is used in car engine compartments where we know 'dangerous' things live.  So when a lithium battery goes bad it is front page news, but when a lead-acid one explodes it rates not even a mention.

 on: March 19, 2017, 10:52:23 am 
Started by Doneworking - Last post by Two Hams in a Can
Are there any concerns about the Lithium Ion batteries in these devices igniting and/or exploding like the one in the headphones worn by the lady on the plane, or hover boards or e cigarettes?   Cheers

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