Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
 71 
 on: August 14, 2014, 07:44:44 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by AMW
Ron, I'm very excited to see how your project turns out.  I retrofitted my old ClassA with the push in LED bulbs, but never could figure out how to change the fluorescents in the ceiling.  Even though my PC is new with all LED lighting (and the fixtures are very nice), the ceiling fixtures are too bright for evening lighting.  Right now I'm turning them off in the evening and turning on the four "reading" spot lights pointed at the wall, but that's not quite what I want either.  I am planning to add some softer, warm white, LED ambient light but haven't figured out what I want to do yet.  I'm considering a cove channel along the top edge of my upper cabinets with a strip LED like the one you are buying, angled to shine up on the ceiling, hidden by the cove.  Like under cabinet lighting, but upside down.  Also have to figure out a switch and dimmer, and I'm looking at the ones at www.inspiredled.com.  I used their products to add ceiling lights to my E-350 van and the quality is good.

 72 
 on: August 13, 2014, 05:52:40 pm 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
While in my power-reduction mode, I will also be replacing my conventional incandescent light bulbs in the stove hood, closet, shower, outdoor storage compartment, porch & Sanicon fixtures.  I can find direct replacement LED bulbs for them, something resembling these, though some research is needed to assure I am saving substantial power.

 73 
 on: August 13, 2014, 04:16:09 pm 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
During lunch today, I bought a package of 20 drop-in replacement 3-way switches off Ebay HERE for $8.34 including shipping.  They spec'd the same dimensions as my original switches...Yippie!  This means converting my florescent lights to LED and integrate additional LED mood/night lights for less than $2.00 per light fixture.  And seemingly easy to do.  I look forward to receiving the LED reel and switches so I can get started.

 74 
 on: August 13, 2014, 10:21:55 am 
Started by GoPhoenix - Last post by GoPhoenix
My elderly aunt was sorting through her mothers (my beloved grandmother) keepsakes.  She sent a cartoon to me from 1973 she thought I might like:

 75 
 on: August 13, 2014, 07:30:24 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by ron.dittmer
I removed the light fixture over the kitchen sink and removed all of the florescent electrical content simply by unclipping and unsnapping things off.  I did have to use a soldering iron to remove the circuit board because of the way the on/off switch pierced through it from behind.  Everything could easily be reassembled back to "original" if my lighting conversion is not satisfactory.



Though the reel of LEDs have not yet arrived, I got a jump start on this because I am locating a replacement switch from a single click to a double click.  Center being "off", one direction being full lighting.  The other being only a tiny strip of LEDs for mood/night lighting.

Here are the dimensions I need to find a physically same size replacement 3-way switch.  They are sold very cheap on ebay, 10 for $6.00 but they are not stating dimensions.   Cry

ENGLISH DIMENSIONS
Switch Body - 0.73" x 0.48"
Switch Escutcheon Plate - 0.82" x 0.59"
White Switch Plate Opening (for body) - 0.75" x 0.51"
Lens Opening (for escutcheon plate) - 0.835" x 0.60"

METRIC DIMENSIONS
Switch Body - 18.5mm x 12mm
Switch Escutcheon Plate - 21mm x 15mm
White Switch Plate Opening (for body) - 19mm x 13mm
Lens Opening (for escutcheon plate) - 21.2mm x 15.2mm


 76 
 on: August 12, 2014, 12:31:34 pm 
Started by Barry-Sue - Last post by ron.dittmer
I really want to get to sealing the back side of our step.  It starts with buying that chassis saver product.

 77 
 on: August 12, 2014, 12:26:21 pm 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by ron.dittmer
Yep, you got it figured out and written well.

In my earliest days with our rig, I thought all was well latched, later to learn otherwise.  It requires "attention" to assure it is latched & well secured.  It is not a "Give It No Thought" latching mechanism.

 78 
 on: August 12, 2014, 10:18:59 am 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by Sparky
Great tip,,,, have had same problem will check the Beast next time I go visit her.
sparky

 79 
 on: August 11, 2014, 09:42:48 am 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by Pax
I don't have any direct experience with (or anything more than general knowledge of) chargers, but during our last trip we met some folks who love and recommended this portable solar charger....

http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Foldable-Suitcase-Battery-Charger/dp/B00HR8YNK6/ref=sr_1_6/184-3421508-4384255?ie=UTF8&qid=1407763798&sr=8-6&keywords=rv+solar+battery+charger

    - Mike

 80 
 on: August 11, 2014, 09:42:38 am 
Started by ragoodsp - Last post by ragoodsp
Skipper....I hear you loud and clear and the hassle is some times just not worth it but it just irritates me that the coach owner  (I purchased the unit new) purchases a coach expecting everything to be A-OK and when it is not it should be made right especially if the unit only has 7000 miles on it.   I am sure many would not feel the vibration I feel or they would merely tolerate it, I am critical and will get the vibration fixed one way or another.  I have had my issues with Ford going back to a 1995 Holiday Rambler on the F-53 chassis that had ongoing fuel pump issues that Ford could not seem to resolve and we "settled" and not in a Ford dealership setting!   I have been told by someone who knows that any of the company reps that you might talk to in regards to warranty work or buy back negotiations are actually compensated on how much they do not pay out, so it is in their best interest to push back on the consumer.   thanks

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10