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 on: October 19, 2014, 10:48:54 am 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by BandD
Hi Holly,

We've driven highway one from Jenner to Manchester Beach towing our
FIT with no problems.   e do it twice a year, roughly.

Also, near the Moss Landing KOA is the Monterrey Bay Aquarium.  A not-to-be-missed place.  It's on Steinbeck's storied Cannery Row.

We like the Spud Point Crab Company in Bodega Bay a lot.  Sea food just across the street from the boats!  Buy a whole crab and they'll clean it for you.  And the chowder is wonderful.  We're planning to try Doran Beach son, have scouted it, and it looks great.  Some of the sites look out to the very harbor entrance of the bay.



 on: October 19, 2014, 07:44:35 am 
Started by Carol - Last post by TomHanlon
    On the 2350 the outside cabinet has three valves, hot, cold and fresh waster. On the 2551/2552 the fresh water drain is under the passengers side bed and the hot and cold are under the bottom drawer under the kitchen sink. To access them you pull the drawer out until it stops. Then on the right side of the drawer you will see a black plastic arrow shaped thing in the slide. The same thing will be on the left side also. You push down on the right side, push up on the left side and while holding them in this position pull the drawer out just far enough to reach in and turn the valves. DO NOT pull the drawer all the way out as it it a pain in the you know what to get it back in the tracks. This is also where the water heater bypass valves (3 of them) are located for any model with the heater under the kitchen sink.

    To drain the hot and cold and outside shower, open these valves, and open each and every water valve. You will need to drain the water heater tank from outside in the heater compartment. The water heater is expensive to replace if it freezes and burst. If you leave it on while traveling, it will not freeze. We use the electric option while plugged in and it stays warm most of the day. In extreme cold I would turn on the gas option while stopped for lunch to reheat it. You can also turn on the gas furnace at this time. Another option is to run the generator and heat both water heater and the cabin using electric. It is good for the generator to run it anyway and it only uses less than 1/2 gallon of gas per hour. You can run it either while stopped for lunch or while driving.

 on: October 19, 2014, 01:20:35 am 
Started by gl1500 - Last post by gl1500
We finally decided we did not want to continually fold and unfold the pleated shade in the truck front windows.  Besides that hassle, the pleated material does not really block much light.  My wife went to a fabric store and bought black-out material and made non-pleated curtains.  We then punched holes in the material and installed the hangers.  Works great.  Another benefit is when driving with the sun coming in the side window you can slide the curtain forward as much as needed and block the sun which is not possible with the pleated material. 

 on: October 19, 2014, 12:21:00 am 
Started by ron.dittmer - Last post by skipper
That looks surprisingly like the fresh water pump impeller on our old inboard boat engine.  We replaced the impeller biannually to prevent pump failure while offshore.  What you found sounds like blades from a well used impeller.  Should you decide to replace it, getting the impeller back in the pump can be an exercise in inventing new curse words.  However, there is an easy solution.  Tightly wrap the new impeller with heavy cord so the blades are bound as snuggly as possible against the brass center, but don't tie it off.  The impeller should now slide easily into the pump housing.  Once seated, hold the impeller in the housing with one hand and pull the cord off with the other.  It may take a couple of attempts to get it right.  Liberal use of curse words are optional but recommended.  It doesn't matter if you fold the blades in the wrong direction. They will quickly reorientate themselves to the right way.

 on: October 18, 2014, 10:43:25 pm 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by Pax
Many National Parks parks are still open, or open year round out here, like Pinnacles and Lassen.

Lots of state and local parks with RV sites as well.  Skyline Wilderness Park is ideally located close to downtown Napa and the southern end of Napa Valley.  Quiet place with lots of hiking trails and great views.  Full hookups.

Doran Regional Park in Bodega Bay offers RV sites with no hookups, right on the bay and across the street from an ocean beach.

A number of Army Corps campgrounds sprinkled around some of the lakes (like Lake Sonoma and Lake Mendocino... And I think Folsom Lake)

If you plan to stop a bit up here in the SF Bay Area / Napa Valley Area, give me a shout and we can chat about all the things accessible from around here.

    - Mike

 on: October 18, 2014, 10:19:02 pm 
Started by Carol - Last post by 2 Frazzled
Carol, I'll answer as best I can but the configuration of the 2350 will be different so I'm not sure if what we do when camping in freezing temps will work for you.

The outside shower- we make sure the taps are turned off, disconnect the hose and stick a baggie full of fiberfill in then lock the bin. Our water lines for the outside shower are in a little space under the driver side bed that can only be accessed by removing the bed board. The space is between the outside wall and the under bed storage. If we ever lift that board again I plan to insulate the inside of the shower box just for added measure. I tried leaving the pink stuff in the outside shower lines only but it just drains back down into the main supply lines since the faucets are above the lines.

Tank heaters - if the temps will be below freezing for more than an hour or two, the tank heaters are on, even if we have no hookups. If we will be camped any extended time with freezing temps, we find hookups.

Macerator - yes on your plan. To clarify, we will drain the tanks, dump in some antifreeze then run it through the Macerator and valves. This has to happen every time we dump if we will remain below freezing.

Hot water tank - we only turn it on when we need it. We've spent days below freezing and it never froze but now you have me thinking. It is well insulated, and the actual water tank is inside the heated space, but I guess it could be vulnerable if it was left off with extended cold weather since it has that big outside panel. I'll have to check the manual on that one and maybe watch the Phoenix build videos.

Driving - we have the truck heater running while driving in freezing temps and that keeps the inside of the rig warm enough. The cat sometimes disagrees but after logging her complaints, she settles down on my lap in the warm zone and all is well. It has never felt like the back of the house was near freezing while we were on the road. We've never run the propane furnace while driving, I'm not sure you would need to, but I don't see why you couldn't. I recommend checking your manual to see if it says anything about it.

Outside drain access - I'm pretty sure we don't have that. We have one small hole to drain our fresh water tank. We haven't worried about it but will stuff insulation around it if we expect extended freezing temps.

At one point we were camping in very cold temps, that didn't get above freezing for about a week, with an inoperable propane furnace and were having trouble keeping things warm so we took the extra step of leaving inside cabinet doors open to allow our wimpy heat to get to the plumbing. We hadn't started the antifreeze through the valves yet and those froze but luckily did not break and we were able to dump after they thawed (three states farther south). We now carry two gallons of the pink stuff and dump it in as needed.

The Phoenix does really well in cold temps. We drape a curtain to block the cold from the cab and make sure the truck vents are all closed. If there is warm sun, we open the blinds. If no passive solar gain, and as soon as the sun starts down, we button her up and cover all the windows. It took us a while but we've learned from our mistakes (and from a lot of knowledgeable and helpful people on this forum) and we don't worry about the weather anymore. We keep track of it so we know when to go into cold defense mode, but it's a few simple steps and you are good to go.

I hope this helps!


 on: October 18, 2014, 09:10:36 pm 
Started by 2 Frazzled - Last post by 2 Frazzled
Thanks Bill! I'll be plotting our route and will see what we can work in. Is there any problem running hwy 1 with our 2552 with Subaru on the back... and bikes on the back of that?

Pismo Beach gets extra points just to get our rig washed. Colorado and Utah have a massive amount of dust. It's all different pretty colors, but is still dust.


 on: October 18, 2014, 01:34:29 pm 
Started by JOHNNYandVICKI.O - Last post by Bob Mahon
I cannot comment on your particular problem but will offer a word of advice:
Never, EVER leave your unit without turning the water off, inside and outside.
I've seen too many boats sink because a fitting broke and allowed shore water to flood the inside.
While a MH won't sink, water sure can make a mess and cause serious damage.

Same with the black and gray water drain valves. A few years ago the sewer line collapsed at one of the camp grounds we were staying. A number of units on both sides of us that left their gray water drain valves open were flooded with raw sewage backing up through their shower drains. I don't leave the drain valves open and we avoided a disaster. However, we did move to another CG.

 on: October 18, 2014, 01:24:15 pm 
Started by JOHNNYandVICKI.O - Last post by gl1500
If what you say is there was no problem when you used the fresh water tank with the pump, but when you hooked up to city water you then saw your leak, it would appear the leak is coming from plumbing behind the city hookup panel.  If you are positive that there was no leakage when using the pump/tank, then all your plumbing should be ok and that isolates the problem to the city panel hookup which includes a valve for selecting tank/city or winterizing.  If that valve or fittings are leaking in the wall, the water would easily migrate along the wall to the rear of the coach.  If you are capable of removing that panel, then you could check the fittings on the inside of the wall.
     On our previous coach, a 2350, we had a major leak in the coach.  On the first filling of the tank, I went inside to see how things were going and found water all over the rear of the coach.  After removing 15 to 20 screws securing the rear corner bed mattress floor,  I found the main water line at the bottom of the tank for feeding the pump, was letting water out as fast as I was putting it in.  The line at the tank was cross threaded and only on part way. Water was covering the entire area under the corner bed, in the bathroom area and the floor outside the bathroom.  A real mess.  Immediately traded that new coach in on a 2551.  To prevent future problems with leaks at the tank on this coach we had them install the same hydraulic lifts on the passenger side as on the driver side, so I have immediate access to the tank and pump and other items under that bed.  A good thing as when first filling the tank there was a small leak where the filler hose attaches to the tank.  The metal clamp securing the filler hose had cut through the hose, fortunately an easy repair.  Would not have known this if the bed platform had been screwed down as normal.
    I hope this helps.

 on: October 18, 2014, 12:50:36 pm 
Started by JOHNNYandVICKI.O - Last post by TomHanlon
Is your outside shower turned off?
 Is there water under the bathroom sink?
 Have you checked the valve to send water to your fresh water tank?

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