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 91 
 on: July 19, 2016, 09:03:39 pm 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by fandj
I don't have any direct experience cleaning the Phoenix gel coat but have successfully used Barkeepers Friend Cleaner on an unpainted molded fiberglass gel coated travel trailer.  It is a common cleaning agent to remove stains and is used by many owners of these type trailers.

 92 
 on: July 19, 2016, 07:31:49 pm 
Started by Joseph - Last post by jfcaramagno
60, tops. Now Carol, on the other hand, pushes to 75 despite my complaints. Mpg falls off dramatically then.

 93 
 on: July 19, 2016, 07:14:50 pm 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by ragoodsp
bruce...I am sorry but I have no quick and easy solution. I think I would try a very light marine gel coat restorer or very fine rubbing compound.  Best of luck I do not envy the work your are faced with.

 94 
 on: July 19, 2016, 07:10:08 pm 
Started by Johnny&Vicki.O - Last post by KB9OMH
Had nitrogen put in my PC 3100 last year, the only thing I can say is I don't have to top off the Air PSI after letting the unit set over the winter. Before I would have to add between 10 to 20 PSI of air before any trips, this year I have not added any at all still holding 80 PSI.

 95 
 on: July 19, 2016, 06:56:54 pm 
Started by Bruce and Sharon - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
We recently needed to temporarily store our rig in a lot surrounded by evergreen trees and next to a metal fabrication shop for three weeks.  As I cleaned the coach to get ready for the camping trip that were currently on I was horrified to see many small stains (most about 1/8 to 1/4" size) all over the unpainted gel coat and decals on the drivers side that Ive not been able to remove with any product that we have with us now.  These stains are smooth, dry to the touch.  They are level with the surrounding surface and appear to be absorbed into the gel coat.

No stains can be seen in the adjacent painted surface.

I assume that the stains were caused by sap falling from the trees or by some type of spray coming from the fabrication plant.  I suspect the latter because Ive never seen tree sap leave such a mark and only the side next to the plant has any (even though the tree line goes across both sides of the PC). 

Another thread here mentions using a light bleach mix to remove stains from caulking, so I plan to try that on these stains when we return home next week.

Has anyone here experienced such staining?

--Bruce

 96 
 on: July 19, 2016, 06:19:53 pm 
Started by JOHN - Last post by Bruce and Sharon
Im now in the group of PC owners that would recommend full-body paint because of the following brief history with ours.

Our 3-yesr old 2552 has lower body paint.  Im almost obsessive in keeping it clean and protected from UV as it is always parked outside (summer its usually in the generally cool, foggy Monterey bay climate, winter its in sunny Palm Desert, CA)

My experience is that the painted surface needs much less attention to keep it looking like new.  The painted surface usually just needs a light wipe-down, while the non-painted surfaces needs more effort to remove accumulated dirt.  The gel coat seems to attract more grime.

The whole unit gets a complete wash and wax three or four times a year.

We recently needed to temporarily store the coach in a lot surrounded by evergreen trees and next to a metal fabrication shop for three weeks.  As I cleaned the coach I was horrified to see many small stains (most about 1/8" to 1/4" size) all over the unpainted gel coat on the drivers side that Ive not been able to remove.  No stains can be seen in the adjacent painted surface.

Rather than hijack this tread toward stain removal questions I plan to start a new thread on that subject.

--Bruce

 97 
 on: July 19, 2016, 02:16:22 pm 
Started by JOHN - Last post by Syd and Margo
Go with full body paint.
When I wash my unit it is like washing a new car.  It looks so good.  I had enough gelcoat with the boats we have owned.
Full body paint makes the unit look up to date with other units.
Syd

 98 
 on: July 19, 2016, 11:10:09 am 
Started by Sarz272000 - Last post by ron.dittmer
Has anyone determined actual CCC for a 2350/1? Not just the sticker CCC.

My data shared is based on a 2007 E350 chassis which the specs from Ford state 7800 pound max for the rear and 3100-4600 for the front.  Keep in-mind I don't have a slide out and the 2008 and newer E350 has a higher weight rating.

I weighed our 2007 2350 last year during a trip when we carried a pile of extra drinking water.  I was worried about over-loading.  Here was the actual weight during the trip.


When the trip was over, I wondered what our rig weighed empty so I weighed it locally.  I had removed everything not considered "original-ish"  I did not remove the two TVs I had added after we bought the rig, and our 3rd captain seat did replace the original barrel chair.  My redesigned kitchen cabinet 3-drawer system is surely heavier than the original 5, and I had added an accumulator tank & wooden literature organizer, and a few other light weight items like the bathroom towel rack for example.  But I did remove everything not nailed down with exception to the dinette cushions & table, and the mattress....they stayed in for the weighing.  I even removed the 30amp cord, 6-ton jack, tire iron, and the door-stored coffee maker.  I also removed myself.  The spare tire remained mounted as I feel it should for the weigh-in.

Here is our weight empty (full tank of gasoline, 1/4 full of propane, no water of any kind in any container including the hot water & accumulator tanks).


Here is the PC sticker for reference.


If you study the weigh-in numbers, interesting is that with my wife and I sitting in the front seats during the trip weigh-in, the front axle weighs only 100 pounds more than with nobody in the seats when the rig is empty.  That means we carry so much weight rear of the rear axle which takes off weight from the front axle.  That is not good.  No wonder why the factory has since relocated the fresh water tank from the rear bumper as far forward as reasonable, and more centered too.

 99 
 on: July 19, 2016, 09:36:06 am 
Started by Joseph - Last post by ragoodsp
I travel at approx. 65MPH most of the time.   Might bump up to 70 if the traffic is really moving but never over 70.

 100 
 on: July 19, 2016, 09:02:24 am 
Started by Johnny&Vicki.O - Last post by Doneworking
My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee came with nitrogen in the tires and the green valve caps indicate nitrogen.   For five years I added regular air to them and never had a problem.  Regular compressed air has nitrogen and oxygen....and water vapor.  The water is the culprit to deteriorate rubber over time.  Also, compressed air will tend to migrate at high temps out of the tire...but unless you are racing at 200mph it isn't enough to matter.   To me, nitrogen is just another of those "sell you somethings"  that sounds sexy and instills fear that after over a century of using pneumatic  tires full of air we will all have disaster if we don't use it.   Sort of like the $400 fabric protector spray or leather conditioner the dealers all like to pedal. 

Give me a break!   rolling on the floor

The most important thing, in my opinion, is to use a compressed air source that is properly maintained and therefore the water is purged from the air tank frequently.  By the way, I bought one of these on sale at Lowes for a hundred bucks and it puts up 150 psi which is great for the PC tires.  Of course, it is to big to be practical to carry in the PC, but I use it for my shop as well as airing our PC and vehicle tires.   HD and Lowes both put them on sale for $100 occasionally.   They are very easy tanks to drain the water and keep clean.   Additionally, they are relatively light weight and well made.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-0-8-HP-6-Gallon-150-PSI-120-Volt-Pancake-Electric-Air-Compressor/4764588

Paul


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