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Sparky
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« on: July 17, 2013, 08:37:57 pm »

In a recent thread I spent the afternoon in my storage compartment,  JJ Ron and others brought up some great points regarding the pump, accumulators, and so forth.... I took some pics through the opening of our 2350.at the water tank opening..   The vent hose is looped. still good and clear though,, I'm having no problem with water so leave alone.
        Pump noise is my main concern.... I posted a message from Shur flo that indicates you need a long feed to and from the pump to help with noise.... If you look at the last picture you can see the input hose is bolted down to the floorboard,, it is also very stiff,, I'm thinking that this may be the noise problem. Ron suggestion putting some padding around it I believe......
       I'm going to fill the tank a little enough to run the pump,,, then run it and see if this could be the main source of the noise.... will post more later.
        I can not see the output hose it is behind the pump.

Sorry but the pics are at        http://waterpumpfixupforaruiser.blogspot.com/

I'm still having problems downloading pics to the forum  All thoughts, comments appreciated.
David Sparks
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2013, 10:01:33 pm »

The output line is hard PEX white plastic plumbing where vibration easily travels making a big racket inside the motor home.  That is where you need to add a flex line.... between the pump and PEX.  The flex line will prevent vibration from getting to the hard plastic pipes.  An accumulator tank does the same thing but better.  I like having a flex line not just to prevent vibration, but also preventing potential cracking of the plastic pump itself.

As seen at the base of the area here, I added a ball valve in the low pressure line between the fresh water tank and the pump.  This in case of a failure.  It is a means to stop the water flow quickly before 40 gallons of water ends up inside the motor home.
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Sparky
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« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2013, 10:17:41 pm »

I think I understand,,,, did you move the pump to attach the flex line to the output for the pump,, I can feel behind the pump and feel the output joint? can not see of course.
sparky
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2013, 10:35:59 pm »

In a recent thread I spent the afternoon in my storage compartment,  JJ Ron and others brought up some great points regarding the pump, accumulators, and so forth.... I took some pics through the opening of our 2350.at the water tank opening..   The vent hose is looped. still good and clear though,, I'm having no problem with water so leave alone.
        Pump noise is my main concern.... I posted a message from Shur flo that indicates you need a long feed to and from the pump to help with noise.... If you look at the last picture you can see the input hose is bolted down to the floorboard,, it is also very stiff,, I'm thinking that this may be the noise problem. Ron suggestion putting some padding around it I believe......
       I'm going to fill the tank a little enough to run the pump,,, then run it and see if this could be the main source of the noise.... will post more later.
        I can not see the output hose it is behind the pump.

Sorry but the pics are at        http://waterpumpfixupforaruiser.blogspot.com/

I'm still having problems downloading pics to the forum  All thoughts, comments appreciated.
David Sparks
2008 PC 2350
Houston

Sparky - thanks for sharing the pictures.  The vent hose looks new compared to what I had to replace.
I think you will get the biggest gain with the flex tubing on the pump output.  That is where the hammering noise was coming from on my RV. The picture I posted shows what the plumbing looks like directly after the pump output.  Please keep us posted on your progress.
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Sparky
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2013, 10:51:43 pm »

jj
  tks for the reply... looking at your pics, and looking at my set up I see no difference...  hmmm this looks like a major project,,, to do this I am going to have take the bed frame off no doubt to be able to work on this... did you finish yet??  also do you have pics of the flex line you added? I'm going to wait and see how the other projects go  also when I look at you pics  I see the pipes, wonder if just cushioning them could help... Will keep researching, looking, and thinking about it..hahah
sparky
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2013, 11:26:27 pm »

I think I understand,,,, did you move the pump to attach the flex line to the output for the pump,, I can feel behind the pump and feel the output joint? can not see of course.
sparky
Yes I moved the pump from it's original mounting position.

You should be able to unscrew the fitting of the white plumbing off the pump by hand utilizing the wings on that fitting....it's like a wing nut, not requiring tools.  Remember which way to unscrew.  You are working from the opposite direction.
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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2013, 06:57:34 am »

jj
  tks for the reply... looking at your pics, and looking at my set up I see no difference...  hmmm this looks like a major project,,, to do this I am going to have take the bed frame off no doubt to be able to work on this... did you finish yet??  also do you have pics of the flex line you added? I'm going to wait and see how the other projects go  also when I look at you pics  I see the pipes, wonder if just cushioning them could help... Will keep researching, looking, and thinking about it..hahah
sparky

Sparky,  I have not added the flex line yet, I am going to wait and see what the replacement pump does first and then add the flex tubing at that time.  On mine, I was able to remove the pump without taking any panels off.  The pump output unscrews just like Ron has described.  It was a little trick unscrewing the back mounting screws of the pump as they were behind the panel closer to the tank.  I tried a few different screwdrivers before I found one to do the job.  Just adding cushioning did help in my case with the hammering but looking back probably not enough to justify the effort as I could not reach all the lines that ran closer to the vanity. It required me to remove that panel temporarily.  To gain access, I had to remove the carpet over that side panel (held in with staples) and then pry the side panel from the top and corner panels. Not a trivial task . . . I can fully understand why you might want to finish your other projects first!
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2013, 08:14:27 am »

I have used accumulators, pipe wrap insulation, rubber feet for the pump, etc. on most of my previous rvs, but the flex line is the fix. You need at least 18"-24" on both sides and the easiest method is to loop the flex line so you don't have to modify the rigid pipe as much. I have had pumps mounted from the factory with short lengths of straight flex hose and they still hammered. Sometimes I've had to loop it twice, but regardless the length is the fix. Much to my surprise my previous Winnebago came with the flex hose looped. Nice to know that they listened to their customers or Shurflo. I haven't tackled my PC yet because the noise hasn't bothered me, but I'm sure that will change when I boondock.
 exactly!
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2013, 12:24:50 pm »

You need at least 18"-24" on both sides and the easiest method is to loop the flex line so you don't have to modify the rigid pipe as much. I have had pumps mounted from the factory with short lengths of straight flex hose and they still hammered. Sometimes I've had to loop it twice, but regardless the length is the fix. Much to my surprise my previous Winnebago came with the flex hose looped.
Great details of which I agree 100%.  (a helpful for you)  My 2 gallon accumulator tank killed all vibration using a non-looped flex hose between pump and accumulator tank.  Without a tank, a looped flex hose should dampen the vibration perfectly.
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Shipper
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2013, 09:28:18 pm »

You need at least 18"-24" on both sides and the easiest method is to loop the flex line so you don't have to modify the rigid pipe as much. I have had pumps mounted from the factory with short lengths of straight flex hose and they still hammered. Sometimes I've had to loop it twice, but regardless the length is the fix. Much to my surprise my previous Winnebago came with the flex hose looped.
Great details of which I agree 100%.  (a helpful for you)  My 2 gallon accumulator tank killed all vibration using a non-looped flex hose between pump and accumulator tank.  Without a tank, a looped flex hose should dampen the vibration perfectly.

Thanks for the "helpful"! My PC is still new to me and only has about 1500 miles on it. Before we bought it, I viewed many of your posts which answered a lot of the questions that I had. I see why you have 162 "helpful(s)" on your profile.
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« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2013, 05:45:17 pm »

I copied this from an email from CampingRoadTrips.com


My water pump is very noisy and vibrates the pipes down the side of RV. What could be the problem?

Dear RVer

If you've ever wakened your RV or camping neighbors with a midnight bathroom break then you can understand how noisy some water pumps can be.

Although it can be a common problem it is usually fixable. Below we've listed some typical issues and how to solve them.

1.  Faulty Manufacturing and Design

Some RV manufacturers scrimp on installation and material costs, compromising the quality of their water pump. Symptoms of faulty installation are loose mounts causing vibrations, clanging pipes and water hammer.

What you need:

•Half-inch foam pipe insulation
•Duct tape
•Rubber pad (computer mouse pad does the trick)
•Screwdriver
What to do:

•Locate your water pump. If you do not know where your water pump is, turn it on and follow the noise. RV water pumps are usually installed in a cabinet near the sink, under the dinette or under the bed. Once you find its location, switch off the pump.
•Unscrew the water pump using the screw driver to dismount the pump from its compartment. Put the rubber pad under the water pump and screw it back to its compartment. This step takes care of the vibrations
•Fix the clanging pipes by wrapping each of them with half-inch foam pipe insulation. Duct tape each end of the foam pipe insulation to secure it.
•Once finished, switch on the water pipe, open the faucet or flush the toilet to check if there are still noises.
2.  Rapid Cycling

When a water pump runs rapid cycles on and off, it creates noise and causes vibrations. You need only to adjust the cycle settings to fix this problem. Check if you need to adjust the pump by turning on a faucet to low flow. When the pump cycles and its OFF time is 2 seconds or longer, there is no need for adjustment. But, if the OFF time is faster than that, you need to correct the problem of rapid cycling.

What to do:

Turn the adjustment screw 1 turn clockwise or until the pump reaches the required 2-second (or longer) OFF time.

3.  Additional Water Storage Needed

When the water pump can no longer store water under pressure without causing vibrations, you may want to install an accumulator. Contact your RV supplies dealer and ask for an accumulator that is compatible with your RV water pump. The accumulator tank acts as an additional storage for water. It prevents the pump from rapid cycling and prolongs the life of your RV water pump.

Copyright ©2013 Camping Road Trip, LLC

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« Reply #11 on: July 25, 2013, 10:13:54 pm »

I copied this from an email from CampingRoadTrips.com

My water pump is very noisy and vibrates the pipes down the side of RV. What could be the problem?

Bill G

Some good suggestions, but none will completely stop vibrations. They failed to mention the one thing that truly works: 18-24" of flex hose on each end of pump. This assumes that you start with a quality water pump.
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