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Author Topic: Winter travel and overnighting iin low 20 degree weather  (Read 1252 times)
Dick & Trish
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« on: November 13, 2013, 07:12:24 pm »

We plan to visit relatives in Northern Indiana over Thanksgiving and we are concerned about what needs to be done for a two night visit in possible freezing weather. We plan to head to Florida for the winter the day after Thanksgiving.  We have a 2011 Model 3100 which we love and don't want to damage.  We plan to either plug in to their 110 system with a heavy duty cord to our RV or we can run our generator along with two cube catalytic heaters inside.  Do we need to run the tank heater in the bath?  Do we need to leave the water heater turned on?  Do we need to open any specific doors or drawers. Should I induce RV antifreeze anywhere before we leave home?   I used to be pretty good at doing the necessary things but they seem to escape me with age.  Any help would be appreciated.

I misspoke above calling the heater a catalytic heater.  They are little ceramic cube electric heaters.  No liquids are used.  Thanks so much to those who have offered winterizing suggestions for Trish and I.  They are appreciated very much.
« Last Edit: December 20, 2013, 09:43:25 pm by Dick & Trish » Logged
bobander
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« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2013, 09:03:54 pm »

Not wanting to run the generator at night and limited to 20 amp shore power, I would do the following:

Use the 110v 20 amps to run the catalytic heaters, check the amp draw, you may be able to only run one at a time.

Run the water heater on propane.

Put antifreeze in the holding tanks, the tank heaters may draw too much current.  Or, disconnect the batteries via the store switch and run the tank heaters.  Then the converter will not try to recharge them and not draw any current, then recharge in the am with the catalytic heaters off or run the generator to recharge.

The rest of the plumbing is within the insulated walls and will be fine if you keep the catalytic heaters going.

Instead of the catalytic heaters, you could run the propane furnace as it doesn't use as much electricity as the catalytic.



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« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2013, 11:33:51 pm »

I am not too comfortable with cat heaters in a confined space - hope they are in fact ceramic heaters.  Other than that pretty much what Bob said.
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bobander
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2013, 12:46:37 am »

I am not too comfortable with cat heaters in a confined space - hope they are in fact ceramic heaters.  Other than that pretty much what Bob said.

Good point, have to leave a window open with the cat heaters. 
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« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2013, 06:27:25 am »

We are currently camping in below freezing weather (dropping for just for a few hours each night) but we have 30 amp hookups. My nagging worry applies here though. What about the outdoor shower? I can't find shutoff valves. I unscrewed and drained the shower hose and am basically hoping that is enough. I've played with a few ideas: 1) buy a bag of pillow type fiberfill stuffing at a craft or fabric store and cram it in the cabinet as insulation OR 2) put a large plastic bag in there, spray the gently expanding foam into the bag and close the compartment until it sets up (Not the super expanding stuff, it can expand until it breaks things). I would have to first put something over the faucets to prevent the foam from expanding behind them and thus never coming back out.

I worry about those few freezing hours (possibly unnecessarily) but Dick and Trish will be in a hard freeze for days so their shower is more likely to freeze.

Any suggestions?
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John, Holly, Chloe & Snickers (The "nanny' cat)

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« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2013, 05:27:43 pm »

We put one of these on the water pump which is under the drivers side bed. http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_t_4  This allows for easy access to the water pump so that you can pump the pink anti freeze through the water pump and the shower lines also you might want to pour some pink stuff down the shower drain when the gray tank is empty,then empty gray tank with macerator pump until pink stuff is discharged through hose,this will protect the macerator pump.Once the pink stuff reaches the macerator pump and the shower,I believe you should be alright as long as you don't use the macerator  or outside shower.You would then just dump your waste tanks when needed using the slinky hose the old fashioned way. Cheers
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Denny & Barb
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« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2013, 06:40:08 pm »

Here in northern Wisconsin, fall camping I usually just drain the outside shower hose. Done.

20 amp ckt will run one cube heater, maybe two if u shut off elect water heater.

Antifreeze in the gray and black tanks.  (Make sure the mercenary is winterized before u camp and use Ms. Stinky to dump.

As long as there is heat in coach the fresh water system is good to go.

It is just this simple that works for us.  We do camping into December most years.

Denny and Barb
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GoPhoenix
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« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2013, 10:57:30 am »

A problem youre likely to encounter is a frozen macerator.  Had to winterize on our final morning in the Smokies this November before heading north and home.  Hit the macerator switch nothing.  The temperature was 26⁰.  Had to drag out the standard sewer hose (see pic).
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Bruce and Sharon
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« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2013, 04:56:03 pm »

Hey, I like the look of your sewer hose storage.  Is it the 64" L E-Z Hose Carrier that I see at Camping World online?
Was that carrier easy to install?  I'm guessing that it was harder to do than it looks.
Thanks for the photo,
Bruce
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« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2013, 08:10:17 am »

Sorry, don't know the manufacture. I had it installed by PC when it was built.  shrug
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« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2013, 03:15:25 pm »

I tried having one installed when ours was built and Stuart told me no. Now I guess we'll have to figure out how to install one ourselves. We may never NEED the 3" hose but there will be times we want to use one if we stay in place long enough with full hookups. We have the hose and caps and elbow but just cram it into one of the bins for now.
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John, Holly, Chloe & Snickers (The "nanny' cat)

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« Reply #11 on: November 27, 2013, 03:43:32 pm »

I found this while I was looking up the EZ one mentioned above: http://www.dwincorp.com/products/82/SUPER-TUBE  looks interesting, big enough for the rhino flex.
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John, Holly, Chloe & Snickers (The "nanny' cat)

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« Reply #12 on: November 27, 2013, 08:44:06 pm »

I found this while I was looking up the EZ one mentioned above: http://www.dwincorp.com/products/82/SUPER-TUBE  looks interesting, big enough for the rhino flex.

Yes, that carrier looks perfect.
We too carry a 3" hose stuffed in a storage cabinet for draining gray water when we're camped in one spot for more than a couple of days. 
Could anyone explain how to attach a carrier under our 2552?
Bruce
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Bruce, Sharon, Sparky dog, & Minou kitty
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« Reply #13 on: December 06, 2013, 02:16:24 pm »

Bruce
  Research this on the forum I swear I saw someone had installed a home made carrier.  Are maybe just google it,, bet you will find something,
I know I saw it somewhere,

  Since the weight is minimal,, I think you could get some large plastic tie downs to attach it the frame.  Lowes Home Depot has those large ones, two feet, should work find,, Those big ties are pretty heavy duty and as long you attach firmly, should be no problem with them getting worn out,, you could always put 2/3 at each spot for insurance,

I quickly found these two post   sure there are more

http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/22804651.cfm


http://www.etrailer.com/question-36141.html
sparky
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yankeeflyer
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« Reply #14 on: December 06, 2013, 02:47:32 pm »

Here's our installation,not as nice as GoPhoenix but works for us with ty wraps.  Cheers

Here is how we store ours underneath tywrapped to the frame.


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Here is how we store ours underneath tywrapped to the frame.


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« Last Edit: December 06, 2013, 02:54:09 pm by yankeeflyer » Logged
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