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Author Topic: Dead battery salvation  (Read 2205 times)
dickreid1
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« on: February 12, 2014, 08:26:06 pm »

In the situation where the engine battery will not start the engine, Phoenix Crusier provides a switch to connect the coach battery to charge the engine battery.  The wiring is not heavy so it is dangerous to try to crank the engine with the switch engaged... only use it for charging.

Unfortunately, if your engine battery has a dead cell, no amount of charging from the coach battery or external charger will help.  The only salvation is a jump start.

To be self-sufficient, carry at all times jumper cables 12-feet long of 8-gauge or heavier.  This allows you to connect to the engine battery and jump start directly from your coach batteries.
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Pax
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2014, 08:28:31 pm »

Ok....so how did you get yourself into that predicament?  shrug

   - Mike
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2014, 08:54:25 pm »

Our 2007 2350/E350 had a weak chassis battery that we ended up using jumper cables from the pair of coach batteries in back.  I thought it was just a drain during storage thinking driving the rig would bring the battery back.  But our weekend get-away ended up jumping to start every time.  On our return trip, it got so bad that jump starting wasn't working in our last and final stop before home.  In desperation I started up the generator, hooked up my secondary 40 amp charger to the 110v outside outlet, that along with the jumper cables, the vehicle started one last time to get us home.  Running the generator alone to help the coach batteries wasn't enough.  It took both jumper cables and the 40 amp charger together.

I replaced the battery with an AGM and has been well since.  I would never use that little battery transfer switch by the driver.  I wish I didn't have it at all.....just something to go wrong.
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Ron & Irene Dittmer, 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
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« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2014, 08:58:34 pm »

Hello,
     12 foot may OK for your 2910 but with my 3100 I have to get a 20 foot, size 4 cable to reach the front battery from the house batteries. 16 feet might have worked but the small price difference I went with the 20. Before you ask, I left a front light on in the cab and ran down the battery while in storage. All I had was the 12 foot and it would not reach, but I had the tow car so I used it to jumper the battery.

Jim
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2014, 09:13:11 pm »

I was planning to purchase a set of cables tonight and I thought that for a 2552 a 20' 4gauge would be more than sufficient.  I know Ron swears by his charger, and I'm sure at some point I'm going to agree.  Guess I can't wrap my head around it yet.  I think I should just listen to experience, and not wait until I'm in a bind.  LOL  At least then I can share the blame with someone.

   - Mike
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2014, 07:34:24 am »

I have a different approach, I carry a charger and a 25' electric extension cord. I hook the charger to the engine battery then I plug the cord into the outside plug by the door and start the generator. Then I sit back and wait about 15 minutes before trying to start the engine. It may take longer than Ron's way, but i don't have the long jumper cables.
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2014, 08:24:56 am »

Tom,  Your method works great for a battery that is simply too discharged to start the engine.  But in my case the dead battery was truly dead.  It would not take a charge at all.  Sitting on a charger did nothing for it.  My cables + charger method provided enough amperage to start the engine as if there was no chassis battery at all.
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Ron & Irene Dittmer, 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2014, 10:22:57 am »

Ron/Dick
  Good info,,, one thing I hate about new battery technology, when dead, dead,, use to when we were kids the ole battery would let you know a couple of weeks ahead of time that it was going bad,, now they just go dead,,, had to replace mind also Ron,,, was stuck in the storage shed when the battery went to heaven haha,,, wish I would have known about the cheater jump start would have made changing the battery out a little easier.
Sparky
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Bob Mahon
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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2014, 10:43:03 am »

If you have dual 12 volt "House" batteries rather than dual 6 volters, one of them can replace a bad Chassis battery in a pinch. A pita but it will get you going.
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Carry on, regardless..................
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« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2014, 11:28:27 am »

I gotta remember that one, Bob!  It's one of those things I wouldn't think about when it actually happens!

- Mike
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« Reply #10 on: September 02, 2016, 01:45:56 pm »

My chassis battery drains to zero after 5 or 6 days. Had unit tested for drain. Unit is plugged in and house batteries are up? Spoke to factory suggested left something on?? Isn't the chassis battery supposed to be charging when plugged into post?
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #11 on: September 02, 2016, 02:13:30 pm »

Nope, only the house batteries charge when plugged in. One of the things I wish Phoenix would change.
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« Reply #12 on: September 02, 2016, 03:03:56 pm »

Thanks for the reply

I read chassis battery should last at least a month. What else beside drain might be going on?

trickle charge maybe only option/
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Barry-Sue
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« Reply #13 on: September 02, 2016, 03:25:03 pm »

Here is a link to a previous post about dead chassis battery and solution.

http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,1103.0.html

Hope this will be of some help.

Barry

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« Reply #14 on: September 02, 2016, 03:42:04 pm »

Thanks will try the steps in and checking charge with ammeter then bad cell? Have already eliminated the drain and step lights.
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