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Author Topic: Autodrain Valve Problem  (Read 682 times)
mtownsen
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« on: May 31, 2010, 05:06:14 pm »

Just back from the first weekend trip on our new to us 2007 29'
It was a delight, with just three problems. Here is problem #1 - any advice ?

The Autodrain valve for the black tank won't open on the switch. Manual exercise of the valve works fine (thankfully  Grin)

I am guessing it's s power problem to the valve. Anyone else seen this and dealt with it ?
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Cheers - Mark T
Phoenix
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« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2010, 06:49:01 am »

I had exactly the same problem with my 2007 29'. The wiring at the switch connection was corroded and as you say no power was getting to the switch.
Cleaned and reconnected all OK
Chris
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mtownsen
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2010, 02:57:12 pm »

Thanks - looked behind the panel and the wiring is a mess - all wires from all switches lead into a big bundle of wire and insulation tape, and then out again to the relevant components. This looks like a major fubar. Is this normal ? I am trying to determine if someone cut the wires post factory and then re-spliced badly, and if I should even try to sort this out myself.

I'm no electrician, but could this also be related to the fridge code cycles ? The one thing I did do between the fridge working properly and not working was dump the tanks. The way the wiring is currently set up it looks like there is a high possibility for a short somewhere, which may have zapped ther fridge somehow ?

Sigh. Cry
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Cheers - Mark T
ron.dittmer
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« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2010, 11:14:05 am »

I cannot imagine the wiring for sewage control would be associated with the fridge.  Maybe they share a common power source/fuse.

Whenever I have electrical problems RV related or otherwise, and see a mess of "questionable" wiring like you describe, I go though them one by one, soldering the wiring and sealing the exposed using the best insulation method, shrink tubing.  Radio Shack sells that tubing.  Once soldered and protected like that, it's like there was never a break in the wiring.  If the connections to the switches are also poor and corroded, I would consider going the next step and solder the wires directly to them.  You simply unsolder them when anything needs replacing.  It isn't hard to do, and it guarrantees the wiring and connections are good.  If it is still not working as designed, you can rule out the wiring/interconnections and focus directly on the switches and valves themselves.

I would do my best in retaining the sewage management system as designed.  When working well, it's great.  Just keep it working well.
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Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
Stored At Home In Our Heated Garage (Well-Lit & Warm Comfort In Winter)
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