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Author Topic: Cleaning the Gray Tank  (Read 619 times)
Barry-Sue
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« on: April 22, 2014, 02:15:51 pm »

Recently the gauge for the gray tank started reading 1/3 even when the tank was empty.  I used the San Con flush feature but that did not solve the problem.   On our 2012 2551 there is a straight shot from the 3" external drain into the gray tank when both valves are open.  I extended a flexible tank wand into the gray tank and turned the water on.  Once the water hit the walls of the gray tank all kinds of gunk came flowing out.  I collected about 15 buckets of gunk and water before the water ran clear.  It now reads empty.

Here is an example of a flexible tank wand:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flexible-tank-wand/14497

Barry
« Last Edit: April 22, 2014, 02:34:42 pm by Barry-Sue » Logged

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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2014, 03:48:18 pm »

That is an excellent tip Barry.  AHFY

Our rig is now 7 years old and our tank meters continue to read properly.  I think it is due to the bleaching-then-flushing I do at the end of every RVing season, a requirement of mine for fresh smelling tanks while stored indoors.

But we don't use our rig nearly as much as some of you, so your wand idea sounds like a winner if I run into such trouble.  For us it would be the black tank with the straight shot in.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2014, 04:06:40 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2014, 10:21:41 pm »

Good to know this, Barry.  I had that wand on my list of things to get (maybe later), but reading your post prompted me to order it online from CW.

Just wondering, have you ever used the gray tank flush connection and valve in the macerator  cabinet?

I also have some alternative sensors on my list which, by the sales pitch anyway, sound good.  Figured I'd try them if my sensors failed.  http://www.rvprobes.com/howitworks.html

   - Mike
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2014, 06:51:41 am »

I put those on my first PC, a 2010 2350. Only had that PC for about 10 months after the install. So I cannot say about long term but they worked well while I had them. The only issure I have with them is you still only get the reading in thirds. I have seen ads for a system that reads in percentages but it cost over $200. I a waiting to see how long I can go with the ones that came in there before I spent that much on tank readings. Grin


http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,432.msg2418.html#msg2418
« Last Edit: April 23, 2014, 07:07:17 am by TomHanlon » Logged

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Barry-Sue
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« Reply #4 on: April 23, 2014, 08:01:30 am »

Mike

We use the gray and black tank flush in the macerator cabinet every time we can.  This winter we had 2 months before our first full hook up so we could only flush at the dump station.

Barry
« Last Edit: April 23, 2014, 12:16:38 pm by Barry-Sue » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2014, 08:55:04 am »

We've had misreadings on our tank monitors several times. We full time and use our on board toilet exclusively if we are anywhere near camp so it gets a lot of action. We use the flush sprayer whenever we can which is usually at a dump station IF they have an attachable hose. Some cut off the threads on their hose so you can't screw it on the rig and the water thief thing doesn't work (John got an extra shower that day - incoming water not tank water). John likes to flush each tank three times if he can. The flush sprayer frequently gets us to good readings but occasionally that doesn't work and we move on the the GEO Method found here: https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/ -- I found it somewhere else and that site said to us Dawn dish soap so we did, and we had the sudsiest waste hoses in town. We've cut the recipe in half due to smaller holding tanks and plan to switch over to powdered laundry soap to go with the water softener. We use this method if we can dump before driving, pour in the stuff AND add gallons of water, then have full hookups at the next site. The idea is you dump and clean as well as you can, pour in the solution with lots of water to make sure it swishes up the sides, drive around, then use the tank as usual and dump when full. It takes a little planning but you usually get nice clean tanks. Sometimes it takes two rounds but it gets there.
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« Reply #6 on: April 23, 2014, 12:26:09 pm »

Holly,

Usually that method works for us but not this winter for some reason.  Since we all ready had the wand from our first travel trailer we thought we would give it a try and it worked great.  I couldn't believe how much gunk came out of the gray tank.  I'm thinking it is the bath water with all the moisturizing soap, shampoo and conditioner.  I told Barry the next time we are at a full hook up I want to take that wand into the toilet and spray the pipe going down into the black tank.

We even used this wand to clean out our high efficiency furnace vent at home.  Our furnace kept shutting off and we found a mud nest in the vent.  I went on the roof with the wand in hand and Barry had a bucket in the basement ready to catch the mud and water.  Worked great.  We told a neighbor who is furnace installer and he though it was a great idea.  He usually ties a wrench to a long rope and pushes that through the vent to try to clean it out but this did an even better jop then that.

Sue
« Last Edit: April 23, 2014, 01:20:04 pm by Barry-Sue » Logged

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« Reply #7 on: May 11, 2014, 10:30:44 am »

Barry
   I read a tip on another forum from old timer,, he uses Calgon Water softener in his tank... don't have the numbers of the mix,, it's like 1cup softener to gallon of water,, pours most of it down the black tank and some down the other drains.. claims the mix keeps the sides of the tanks SLIPPERY so nothing will stick to it... we are part time,, so I only put the mixture in when I do a flush   first time I flushed  lots of gunk, afterwards hardly anything...
sparky
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2014, 10:51:41 pm »

I've read about that water softener method too.  Here is the link to the entire article on it, called The Geo Method:

https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/

   - Mike
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