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Author Topic: Converting Fluorescent To LED Just By Changing Bulbs  (Read 1422 times)
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« Reply #30 on: August 27, 2014, 11:51:56 am »


Testing three original florescent lights with two 8-watt light bulbs each.
Testing three 33 LED light strips

Each group of three varied within it's respective group by miniscule amounts, not enough of a difference to calculate an average.

Here are the results at battery voltage 12V

Original Florescent Lights operate at a surprising 9 watts for each twin bulb fixture.  I expected it to be around 16 watts.
33 LED strips operate at 3 watts x 2 per fixture, so the LED conversion is a 6 watt fixture.  This I expected.
(a previous LED strip tested prior was determined to be faulty...I won't get into why except that it got crinkled before the test)

We double checked our measurements with two different testers, one a hand-held, the other a much more sophisticated bench top piece of equipment.

The two 33 LED strip conversion reduces power consumption by only 33% because the florescent lights were much more efficient than I expected.

If I had been trying to achieve the same amount of light lumens, I would have reduced the number of LEDs from 33 to 27 per strip, which would make the LED fixtures 5 watts instead of 6 watts.

Given our interior has dark cherry cabinetry, I desired a little more light, achieving an estimated 20% more.  My LED conversion included mood/night lighting which also helps justify to myself that the project was worth doing. We also like the warmer look the warm white LEDs provide over the cold-blue florescent tubes.  If I was going solely for reduced power consumption, I would be disappointed.  

Regarding the fixture over our dinette.  That fixture always had a glare to it, both as a florescent and now as an LED.  It is simply positioned low putting that light in my face when looking across the table to my wife.  Since that fixture is now a little brighter as an LED, I think the glare is a little worse, so the electrical engineer and I are tossing around ideas on that one.  A POT (potentiometer) would be nice to adjust the voltage, but heat is a concern.  So we are leaning towards a really big resistor to simply lower the voltage to the fixture to 9V-10V to a fixed lower light level.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2014, 08:13:53 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
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Denny & Barb
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« Reply #31 on: August 27, 2014, 10:47:16 pm »

Interesting results, but I'm not surprised Ron as the stock lights are noted for being efficient.  Saying that, however, I still believe in your design because of the "nite lite feature", and the softness of the lighting.  I just installed some undercabinet kitchen LED lighting,  on dimmers. So I would have to add your next idea, using potentiometer, or some form of DC dimmer. 

A six watt potentiometer is quite a real estate hog. Meaning, its not going to be the size of your little 3 position switch. So that maybe a problem to overcome. A better approach would maybe be a variable voltage regulator IC controlled by a miniature pot.  But your engineer will have all the info on this and maybe other more hi-tech solutions.

Thanks Ron....


Your Word or Lord is a light to my feet and a lantern to my path...  Ps 119
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