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GoPhoenix
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« on: July 08, 2014, 04:29:44 pm »

Our power step is working great.  It goes out when the door opens, goes in when the door closes.  The problem is that it goes out and in with the door whether the switch is on or off.  Whats that about?   sad
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Bruce and Sharon
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« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2014, 04:59:50 pm »

We had that problem when we first received our 2350 last year.  The fuse that's in the line leading to the switch was blown.  That fuse was located behind the plastic cover just below the hood release.  It took some effort to pry the plastic cover off.  I'm not certain that the fuse is in the same place on your rig, but it's likely there.
In our case the fuse was blown due to a short in the line that happened during the manufacturing process.  The step worked just as you described until we located the short, removed it (an errant staple), and replaced the fuse.
--Bruce
« Last Edit: July 08, 2014, 05:21:32 pm by Bruce and Sharon » Logged

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bhgareau
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2014, 10:31:52 pm »

 We also have experienced the same problem. Our resolution did not involve a blown fuse. If the fuse is good, I would attempt to adjust the bolt on the frame of the door that activates the step switch. There is a bolt that can be easily adjusted with an adjustable wrench to insure there is sufficient pressure when the door closes to activate the switch. If that doesn't fix the problem contact Carol at the factory and ask her to send you a new door switch. It can be easily replaced with a Phillips head screwdriver and electrical tape. If that doesn't work then contact the factory about a replacement step control panel. Replacing that it a little more involved but doable with a little patience.
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bhgareau
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« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2014, 01:32:01 am »

I re-read your original posting and realized I missed the whole issue. The problem you describe is that the switch that is supposed to override the step retract function isn't  working the way it is supposed to. You should be able to activate the switch and the steps will remain extended with the door closed until you either turn off the switch or activate the coach ignition and start the engine. If that isn't happening then there must be a problem with the switch or the wiring.

My previous reply described the process I had to follow when my steps extended and retracted randomly while driving, when stopped, switch on, or switch off; the only thing that stopped it was pulling the fuse near the parking brake. I finally resolved my problem by replacing the step control panel.
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GoPhoenix
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« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2014, 07:04:19 am »

Were travelling now, so its kind of hard to do much.  The step worked fine for four years.  But now pushing the plunger button that activates the step makes the step go in regardless of the position of the on/off switch.  Last week, it then started working correctly for a few days, now its back to the same problem.  Ugh.  
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detspcl
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« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2014, 07:50:27 am »

Had problem with our step as well. It would only retract when the engine was started. Bad switch. replaced same and works fine now!

chuck
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2014, 08:49:52 am »

Assuming you jiggled all the wires and checked to insure the ground is clean. Checked the wall switch wires.
If all else fails try the grandma method. Smack it. nod I don't know why this works but it does.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2014, 09:39:53 am »

Several problems with my step have occurred over the years.
One, the door switch is cheap and unreliable. But, if on the road, rotate the switch just turning the little button. This cleans the internal contacts on the switch and will get that switch working again.
Your problem is not that switch.

The second problem is that power needs to get to the step control from you ignition switch. This closes the step when the key is turned on, a blown fuse can keep this from happening. Fuse is inside under left panel as described in first answer.

The step manual shows all the wires involved and they are color coded. A proper ground is necessary. I left my simple wiring diagram in my RV which is not accessible to me now.

I once found a loose wire connector in the wiring after the big plug to the switch control box..

I'm sure it is not the control.
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John
GoPhoenix
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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2014, 09:01:16 pm »

One, the door switch is cheap and unreliable. But, if on the road, rotate the switch just turning the little button. This cleans the internal contacts on the switch and will get that switch working again.

Well, isnt that slick!  Rotated the door switch and the step started working perfectly. Thanks!  nod
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2014, 08:57:37 am »

If that switch is completely exposed underneath the rig, it might be collecting a lot of road dust & dirt of which could cause it from working consistently.  Once back home, remove and inspect.  If it isn't corroded/rusted, I would just clean it good with an old tooth brush and dish water, not lube it for concern it will collect dirt much more quickly.  If rusty, soak it with a CLR type of product, rinse, dry, (maybe clean with old tooth brush too) and douse with WD-40 to protect it from rusting again.  But then plan on cleaning it much more often.

Glad to read keelhauler's solution got GoPhoenix problem resolved.  This is a great forum.  A "Helpful" from me to kh.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2014, 08:59:58 am by ron.dittmer » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2014, 09:23:53 am »

Are you guys talking about the plunger type switch on the hinge side of the door? The one the bolt on the door pushes in.

Ron, Instead of regular WD40 you might want to try WD40 Silicone spray on parts you want to lube but don't want the oily on the outside. Dirt and sand will stick to regular WD40 but not to the Silicone spray. Both types have their uses.
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Tom Hanlon
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2014, 12:22:25 pm »

Ron, Instead of regular WD40 you might want to try WD40 Silicone spray on parts you want to lube but don't want the oily on the outside. Dirt and sand will stick to regular WD40 but not to the Silicone spray.
Oh Yes!!!  Good Advise.
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« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2014, 12:55:20 pm »

Here is another choice for a spray lubricant.

I find "BREAK FREE CLP" works great on everything. It is available at Wal-Mart in the sporting goods department. It works without attracting dirt and grime.

Here is a link to their website.

http://www.break-free.com/


Barry
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Bruce and Sharon
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« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2014, 06:25:07 pm »

Barry,

I recently bought some of the BREAK FREE CLP oil and spray to use on the steps, tow bar and various other metal parts, but haven't used any yet.  I'm nervous about the warnings on the labels to avoid skin contact, etc.

What precautions do you take when you apply the product?  I assume that the parts are safe to touch after the oil/spray dries, correct?

--Bruce
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« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2014, 08:14:44 pm »

Bruce

I personally take no extraordinary precautions when I use CLP.  I watch the wind so it doesn't blow the spray back in my face, wipe off any extra with a rag  and wash my hands after use but I would do the same thing if using WD40.

The warning on the CLP can appears to be the standard warning for a product containing petroleum distillates with the exception of the skin contact warning.  Most labels refer to "prolong skin contact" not just skin contact and usually the 15 minute flushing refers to the eyes only.  I tried to call CLP  customer service at 1-800-347-1200 (Safariland) but they were already closed.  I will call tomorrow and post the results.

Barry
« Last Edit: August 05, 2014, 08:16:59 pm by Barry-Sue » Logged

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