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Author Topic: Rust In The Shower  (Read 459 times)
Barry-Sue
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« on: August 09, 2014, 01:52:05 pm »

We were getting some rust stains from the existing screws in the shower of our 2551.  The DW decided it was time to replace the painted steel screws along the bottom edge of the shower with stainless steel screws.  It was an easy and rather inexpensive project that only took about a half hour to complete.  It required 10 #6 x 3/4" and 2 #6 x 1 1/2" Philips Pan Head screws and a little dap of caulk behind each screw head.

Barry
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Barry and Sue 
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Bruce and Sharon
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« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2014, 02:01:22 pm »

Barry,
Thanks for the detailed information and photo.  I'll keep a watch for any rust on those screws in our shower.
--Bruce
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AMW
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« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2014, 02:02:36 pm »

Barry, I don't have rust in my shower yet because it's new, but I did discover yesterday that there is a gap of missing caulk under the inside of the bottom shower door track and it is allowing water to escape to the floor outside the shower.  So I will have to repair that and I think I might as well do stainless steel screws like you did as well.  Since I've never caulked anything before, here are the questions: What type of caulk do I get? Do I have to remove all the caulk that is already there? and if so how?...or do I just make sure it's clean and dry and add caulk right over the existing caulk?...if so, is there anything I need to do to prep the surface for the new caulk (besides cleaning and drying)?  Thanks for your info.
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Ann W.
Barry-Sue
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« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2014, 03:27:12 pm »

AMW

You ask some very good but very hard questions.  This is just what I do and I can't guarantee this is best or only way of doing it.  Hope this answers your questions.


Barry


What type of caulk do I get?

I use - Dap Kwik Seal Kitchen & Bath Adhesive Caulk

Do I have to remove all the caulk that is already there?

This is a hard call.  Unless you remove all the caulk in the shower at some point you will have to bond to existing caulk.  Is it better to bond in a corner or in the middle of a long run?  Personally I don't think it matters.  In either case you have two points of bonding and therefore two points of possible failure.  My choice would be based upon how things look when finished.  If I think it is going to look like a patch job I would remove the caulk back to the side walls of the shower. 

Always remove any lose caulk.

and if so how?

Removing caulk is just a matter of pulling, pushing, scrapping, cutting whatever it takes to get the caulk off.  I find pieces of plastic with sharp edges work best for me.  I have also heard of some solvents that will dissolve caulk.  My concerns with using solvent are bonding issues because of solvent residue and harmfulness to the shower wall itself. I have always just scraped and then wiped with alcohol.

When I start to remove caulk I cover any drain with masking tape to keep the small pieces out.  A shop VAC with a brush attachment works great to get all the little pieces.

or do I just make sure it's clean and dry and add caulk right over the existing caulk?

Always remove any lose caulk

if so, is there anything I need to do to prep the surface for the new caulk (besides cleaning and drying)?

I usually clear the area with alcohol and let dry.  Just make sure there is no lose dirt, dust, old caulk, oils or soap etc.

Here are a couple of tips I have pick up over the years.

Apply masking tape on each side of the caulk line you want to make.

After you apply the caulk wet you finger in warm water and use it to smooth the caulk line.

Let the caulk set up a little before removing the masking tape.  Do not allow the caulk to cure before removing the tape.

Practice a little on something you can throw out.


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Barry and Sue 
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AMW
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« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2014, 03:43:06 pm »

Barry thank you so much for the info. Besides putting caulk in the holes for the new screws, did you cover the heads as well?
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Ann W.
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« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2014, 03:50:11 pm »

AMW

No wiped them clean.

Barry
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Barry and Sue 
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bobojay
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« Reply #6 on: August 31, 2014, 12:51:21 pm »

Hard for me to believe PC doesn't use stainless screws in this wet area. That's a disappointment  shrug
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Bob & Sharon
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« Reply #7 on: September 08, 2014, 08:20:26 pm »

Might want to check the screw in the shower drain.  After 2 years unscrewed mine to clean drain and found screw severally rusted.  Replaced with stainless
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Barry-Sue
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« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2014, 10:14:58 pm »

We replaced that one before we ever used our shower.  On our previous PC (2350) we noticed it when cleaning the drain so as soon as we bought the 2551 it was one of the first things we did.
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Barry and Sue 
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