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Author Topic: winterizing mh  (Read 2952 times)
mciai2000
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« on: October 03, 2010, 09:18:45 pm »

Hello All: 

It is near that time here in NE PA where we put away our campers and winterize them.  Since this is my first year with her I am wondering what you all do.  Do you use anti-freeze or blow out the lines?  My old Winnebago was easy to add anti-freeze.  Looking at the Phoenix I am thinking it would be easier to blow out the lines.  Any input?

DJM shrug
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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2010, 07:53:50 am »

I do both, blow out the lines and then add anti-freeze. Sometimes I am one very big chicken. First I drain all the lines, fresh water tank and the water heater. Then I put my air plug into the water line input and blow out the lines, by opening and closing one faucet (cold, then hot) at a time. I then turn the hot water bypass and using the anti-freeze pickup tube, I add the anti-freeze. This will be my first year with this motorhome but this is what I have done for the last five motorhomes. I had the anti-freeze pickup tube put in when it was built. Come to think about it, I don't know if there is a water heater bypass and where it would be. Can anyone help me out here? I would hate to have to buy six gallons of anti-freeze just to fill the water heater and one for all the lines.
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mciai2000
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2010, 10:28:51 pm »

Tom:

Thanks for the reply. I guess I will pull out the instruction guide and see what that says. I seem to remember something about the bypass in there. If not there, I guess I will dig around the mh and see what I come up with.  Will let you know.

DJM
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lghjr
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2010, 11:38:45 pm »

Take the kitchen drawers out and the hot water bypass is easy to access, the low point drains are also in that space under the bottom drawer - this on the 2700.
I also built an adapter with regulator to keep the air pressure at or below 40psi.  Normally my fill takes about a gallon and a half.  I use the jacks on the passenger side to tilt the rig enough to mostly drain the fresh water tank.
If you have the pump out (Sani-Con) system remember the pump and hose also needs some antifreeze in it.
L.  G.
« Last Edit: October 04, 2010, 11:42:27 pm by lghjr » Logged
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« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2010, 07:14:11 am »

L.G. Thanks about the sani-con warning, I would not have thought of the pump needing anti-freeze. I did one of my many mods to the hose. I put a longer clear hose that runs up into the compartment, then I added a "T" with a spicket that I can open to allow air into the hose. It helps to drain the hose after using the system. The clear part allows me to see when the back flushing has flushed everything out. So I guess this mod will save me from having to put anti-freeze in the hose. Again thanks for the tip.  ThankYou
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2010, 08:27:11 am »

Tom,
About your clear tube with "T" junction & spicket, allowing air in the slinky from above to encourage full draining after the pump is done, and also seeing the clarity of the waste coming out.  That's a great idea!  I will give it some thought for my own rig.

Thanks!
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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2010, 09:04:45 am »

Ron, just remeber to close the spicket after each and every use, otherwise the next time the waste water will come out the top. This happened to me one time.  rolling on the floor
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2010, 09:12:09 am »

Tom

your posting on connecting the clear hose to the compartment and putting a "T" with the spicket sound very very smart and logical, but I am a little bit dense on how to and where should I start the project. Could you elaborate it a little more so I can follow it up. Thanks

Donald
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« Reply #8 on: October 05, 2010, 09:42:55 am »

Donald,

    If you look at the sani-con pump from under the motorhome, you will see a 2" section of clear hose or the black hose connecting to the output side of the pump. I removed the hose clamp and the hose, took it to my local Ace hardware store (they have all the little odd things the big stores don't stock) and bought a 2 foot section of clear hose of the same size. I also bought a "T" and a water valve and two stainless steel hose clamps. I put the water value into the top of the upside down "T". After I pulled the old back hose through the wall I connected it to one end of the "T", and put the new clear hose on the other end of the "T". Put your two new clamps on the hoses connected to the "T". I pushed the clear hose through the wall leaving about four or five inches showing. Going back under the motorhome I connected the new clear hose where the old hose connected to the pump, again using a hose clamp. I had to cut off some of the clear hose to make it fit, but I would rather have too much hose than not enough. I tightened all the hose clamps. All done, that simple.

    Now when I use the hose, I remove the screw-on cap from the end of the hose and put it on the new water valve for storage. When back flushing, I can see what is flowing through the clear hose and I flush until it runs clear. After dumping, I remove the cap, open the valve, lift and shake the hose to get all the water out of the hose. THEN I CLOSE THE VALVE. This last step is very important, otherwise next time you turn on the pump, well you guess where the water is going.  rolling on the floor

    I hope this helps you.
« Last Edit: October 05, 2010, 09:47:53 am by TomHanlon » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2010, 02:06:11 pm »


Tom,
The vent hose is a great idea and one that I will incorporate before winterizing, Thanks.

L. G.
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mciai2000
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« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2010, 09:50:14 pm »

Tom:

Thanks for the input on the winterizing.  I too would have missed the sani-con system. That would have been an expensive yikes.  I will say that I am not yet quite sold on that system. Seems neat, but it does take a lot longer to dump than the old days.  Patience is not one of my strong suits. I did not think to order the pick up tube for the anti-freeze.  I guess my kids and I will have to crawl around the mh and  add one.  I should clarify that. I will have my 11 year old crawl in the tight spots and hook it up with guidance of course.  It has been raining here for 5 days now and we have received 9 inches of rain. So needless to say, the mh has not come out the garage for me to winterize her.....
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2010, 10:06:36 am »

mciai2000 Acturally it was LG that brough up the sani-con, not me. He saved my bacon as well as yours.

On my 2350 with slide, the water pump is under the rear bed, about half way between the top and bottom. The factory put the bypass in before putting the bed plywood down and putting the mattress in place. They then cut a 4" wide by 6" high hole in the wall into the outside cabinet. Looking from the outside, the hole is in the right hand rear corner. I put the bottle jack in front of it and you can not even see the hole. I have to reach into this hole to get the hose and to turn the valve. I put a longer hose on the bypass to give me a little more reach to work with when putting the hose into the anti-freeze bottle.
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« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2010, 08:49:13 pm »

Tom:

Man, I love bacon. Glad it was saved...

DJM
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« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2010, 09:32:53 pm »

 rolling on the floor exactly!
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« Reply #14 on: October 13, 2010, 06:42:18 pm »

Tom,

I did your Sani Con modification.  Wonderful.  Thanks for the post and sending me the pics. 

Paula
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