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Author Topic: winterizing mh  (Read 2768 times)
mciai2000
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« Reply #15 on: October 13, 2010, 10:23:22 pm »

Mr. Tom:

if you get the chance could you send me the pictures and instructions you sent Paula. I have been in a state ThankYou of denial regarding winter coming, but alas it is close. It was 37 here the other morning.  When I go to winterize the beast I might as well put your changes into effect.

Regards...

DJM
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rockrat
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« Reply #16 on: October 13, 2010, 10:39:12 pm »

Tom

a picture is worth a thousand words. Could you please forward me the pictures as well. Thanks

Donald
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« Reply #17 on: October 16, 2010, 11:32:02 am »

Thanks to Tom Hanlon for the vent suggestion on the Sani-con drain line.  I spent the afternoon yesterday shagging parts and putting a vent in and it works like a charm.

I put the ball valve in the storage compartment below the light where the Sani-con line sagged when stored -perfect fit.

No more putting the line up with liquids in it.

L. G.
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2010, 09:23:59 am »

I am trying to post a picture of my mod to the sani-con hose. It allows me to break the water vacuum in the hose after dumping to clear the water out of the hose. It will work for winterizing also.
The instructions of how I did this is above in a previous reply.

I hope this works.  shrug
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Tom Hanlon
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mciai2000
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« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2010, 09:50:32 pm »

Tom:  I have to congratulate you for being wise enough to order a pick up tube for your Cruiser.  I pulled the mh out of the pole barn today to winterize her and found the bypass no problem.  I do have to tell you my 8 year old son figured out how to take the drawer out.. Anyway, I blew out the water with the air hose and drained the potable water. Blew out the sani-con system and flush sytem for the sani-con. I then went to add anti-freeze and found no pick-up tube.  I took the mattress off the bed, pulled up the wood and found the pump without a pickup tube. Who on God's great green earth would think an rv manufacturer selling a rig to someone in NE PA would not suggust adding this option  or rather just put it in. I mean it is just a plastic tube. It can't cost but a buck? Anyway, after much swearing(so much for good intentions at church this am) we were able to get the anti-freeze into the unit. You can bet your sweet bippy I will add that hose come spring. In fact, I left the bed board unscrewed.  Oh yea, last but not least I had my kids go up top and pressure wash the roof..I took some pictures of them up there, I will have to post for Aimee's adveture anywhere. lol.

DJM
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2010, 08:00:23 am »

DJM, Why did you winterize this early? We were up in Jim Thorpe and Hamburg this past Saturday and there is still a lot of fall left before needing to winterize. In two weeks our Good Sam chapter will be headed for our annual trip to Lancaster area.  Then there is the Tanksgiving weekend. Acutualy we will take the whole week off and head south to either Williamsburg or North Myrtle Beach. It is not time to put out PCs away yet. I will drain and blow out the lines between each trip just to be safe.

For those who did not get or have not added the anti-freeze pickup tube, You can always pour the anti-freeze into the fresh water fill hole into the fresh water tank. Then just turn on the water pump and run each facet until the pink comes out. This will take more anti-freeze as you can never get all of it out of the fresh water tank. In the spring when you sanitize your tank what is left will come out. Remember to turn the hot water bypass before turning on the water pump and to drain the tank by using the drain plug on the tank.  The pink that comes out of each facet will go into the "P" trap and winterize them. I have not tried to winterize the sani-con pump yet, but I guess I will just put some anti-freeze into the gray tank and pump it out throughthe pump onto the ground. What a waste of aniti-freeze. If anyone knows a good way of doing this, please let me know.  Help

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« Reply #21 on: November 01, 2010, 01:26:29 pm »

I live in North Idaho. My winterizing procedure is drain the all tanks: grey and black, fresh water and water heater.  Turn on water heater bypass.  I have made a fitting to hook up my air compressor to the city fresh water hookup.  I blow out all lines with air including the toilet.  With the drain on the water heater still unplugged, I open the coldwater line to the water heater blow out some residual water in the heater, although the heater manual states, about two quarts will remain in the heater and is OK for the winter.  Close the heater line again and run the water pump to get any remaining water out of the pump.  Run air through all faucets, and do not forget the outdoor shower.  I had PC install shut-offs inside the coach for the outdoor shower as we sometimes use our coach in the winter, so after the outside shower is blown out we close the shut-offs and do not have to worry about that area freezing.  After everything is blown out, I add RV antifreeze to all the drains(p-traps), and do not forget the shower drain and toilet.  I pour about half a gallon into the shower drain and then open the gate valve on the grey tank so it goes to the sani-con pump, run it momentarily to protect it, then close the gate valve.  There is enough anti-freeze in the systems to protect the gate valves, especially if you use your unit in the winter. Nothing like going to dump and finding your gate valves frozen shut.  Another thought is you may find RV antifreeze expensive, so an option is windshield washer antifreeze fluid.  Our local dealers use it exclusively, but do not use it in your freshwater lines.  After they are blown out there is no reason to run antifreeze through empty lines.  I use about 50 PSI air to blow out the lines. One thing I was surprised about was the lack of a sacrificial anode in the water heater.  Without one, in most cases the electric heating element becomes the sacrificial anode.  My first RV water heater without one.  Just my thoughts.
     Bob
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #22 on: November 01, 2010, 01:39:10 pm »

Thanks Bob, that is very helpful. If it works in northern Idaho it definintly work here in Maryland.  ThankYou
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mciai2000
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« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2010, 09:05:56 pm »

Bob: I did basically what you said.  I just had to run to the local hardware store to buy more anti-freeze than I had.  I know I don't have to run anti-freeze through the system after I blow out the lines. Just call me paranoid.  Tom: Put the MH away as the kids are back in school and the daily grind of work life calls...Still in my forties and the bank still wants me to pay my bills on time. Imagine that?? rolling on the floor
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aimee
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« Reply #24 on: November 04, 2010, 03:55:15 pm »

Quote
Oh yea, last but not least I had my kids go up top and pressure wash the roof..I took some pictures of them up there, I will have to post for Aimee's adveture anywhere. lol.

Please do!  I'm behind on adding photos to the site, but I'm going to get it done today no matter what!
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rockrat
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« Reply #25 on: November 12, 2010, 11:50:48 am »

Tom

thanks for the pic on mod on the sani-con hose. I was finally able to do the modification as you descripted and everything work out great. Now I don't have to stoop down to the ground to check on the line to see if the black water is coming out clear or not.

Another thing, could you tell me what is a pickup tube and where is the water pump in a 2350? and where is the switch to turn it on, and can you install a pickup tube on the water pump permenently. Thanks for all the help.

Donald
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rockrat
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« Reply #26 on: November 16, 2010, 08:56:57 am »

Tom

after going back to some of your old posting, I think I have a pretty good idea on the antifreeze pickup tube and the water pump. I believe I can put one of those sucker connect to the water pump. So thanks for all the very helpful posting.

Donald
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