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Author Topic: Initial Oil Change and Fumoto Oil Drain Valve  (Read 518 times)
sailors35
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« on: May 29, 2017, 04:44:34 pm »

Needing advice or experience.  We picked up our 2351 on the E-450 chassis and promptly drove it while towing our Fiat 500 back to our home in Fort Myers Beach.  Odometer now reads a little under 1500 miles.

1.  Would you change the oil now or wait until the specified 7500 miles?  We will be heading out again for 3-4 months in a week or so.

2.  Has anyone replaced the factory oil drain plug with one of the Fumoto valves?  Looks interesting as it might be a way of controlling the draining rate to make for a cleaner driveway! 

Many thanks,

Mike & Lynn
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Joseph
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« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2017, 05:26:17 pm »

Personally I would change it. Then for the next one I would change at 5,000 miles and send in a sample to Black stone labs. If you have never used them send them an email and they will send you the kit for free. The test runs $30 but well worth it. From there you will know how your engine is breaking in and if the oil can hold up for 7500 miles between changes. On my Ford Fusion I have to change out at 5,000 miles. The oil has life left at that point but not enough to safely go to 7500.

As far as the valve goes. I see no reason for one other than making your wallet lighter. I have no problem changing the oil with the oem plug using a piece of card board and a drain pan. No muss no fuss.
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2017, 09:40:02 am »

Hi Mike and Lynn,

Congratulations on your new purchase!

It likely doesn't matter, but with 1500 brand new miles plus towing, I would feel better to change the oil before the next trip.  I would also feel better using full synthetic motor oil.  As far as the brand is concerned, price is king with me as long as it is SAE approved.....and what synthetic motor oil isn't?  I stock up on full synthetic Quaker State (sometimes another brand) when it is on sale along with a store credit rebate at my area Menard's.  With our PC, I change it with the engine hot just prior to the next big trip which works out well since we never exceed 5000 miles during any given trip.  Whatever oil you decide to use, be sure to follow your manual on the viscosity which I think continues to be 5W-20.

I personally like to use the drain plug because when you remove it, there is a bigger opening for a faster flow.  Maybe I am over-playing this but I feel better ejecting sludge instead of letting it collect and settle near the opening.

Another thing I have been doing is placing a very strong magnet on the end of the oil filter to attract steel/iron particles that may be floating around.  In general, the break-in period is most prone to floating particles.  The strongest magnets I found are from old computer hard drives.  I have used weaker magnets only to find them missing during my next oil change.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2017, 01:45:15 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron & Irene Dittmer, 2007 Model 2350, Ordered Without A Slideout
donc13
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2017, 12:21:35 pm »

Needing advice or experience.  We picked up our 2351 on the E-450 chassis and promptly drove it while towing our Fiat 500 back to our home in Fort Myers Beach.  Odometer now reads a little under 1500 miles.

1.  Would you change the oil now or wait until the specified 7500 miles?  We will be heading out again for 3-4 months in a week or so.

2.  Has anyone replaced the factory oil drain plug with one of the Fumoto valves?  Looks interesting as it might be a way of controlling the draining rate to make for a cleaner driveway! 

Many thanks,

Mike & Lynn

I will differ from the other answers... I would not change the oil after 1,500 miles.  I would check oil level frequently.  I would agree on using synthetic only, i use 1 grade above reccomended, so for me that's 5w30.   Why, because manufacturers went to the lower viscosity rating simply to give slightly better performance.  The heavier oil is thicker and provides better protection in hot engine conditions, in particular.. Highway travel.   And isn't that where most of your RV miles are... gettung there?

I change my oil RIGHT AFTER being on the road and BEFORE putting the RV in storage.  That way, any foreign material in the oil won't have several months to settle out.

I have no opinion on the oil plug, I gsve up doing my own oil changes years ago... I let Grease Monkey handle it  The $100 a year I would save isn't worth the mess of doing it or the need to take the used oil to a recycle center.

« Last Edit: May 30, 2017, 12:23:07 pm by donc13 » Logged

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Joseph
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2017, 05:34:02 pm »

Oil threads are like Tire threads, no end to opinions.  Now I only use syn blend in my fords. Why, because that's what ford recommends. IN my smart I use mobil one, again because that's what they recommend.  Does that make it the perfect answer, nope. Find what your comfortable with and go with it. Just make sure it meets manufacturers specs or better.


One note of interest. When I spoke to the techs at Blackstoine lab who make their living doing these tests I asked what oil or at least what type of oil they thought was best, standard, semi syn or full synthetic. Every tech there uses standard dino oil, not one of them finds it necessary  to use blend or full syn.

So if you really want to know what works for your rig, forget my opinion and have your oil tested.  Its the only way you will know. No advice or opinion from any of use can make up for that.   

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Michelle Dungan
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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2017, 02:42:21 am »

There has been a 40+ year effort towards using low viscosity motor oil to incrementally reduce fuel consumption and thus improve fleet averages for Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE).  In some cases, no changes were allegedly made to certain engines and there were claims that, for example, some Honda engines with a manufacturer preferred grade of, say, 5w-20 in the U.S. would list 10w-30 (or something) in parts of Northern Europe, leading to assumption heavier oil was what it really needed.
However , only someone who was a Honda engineer or mechanic experienced with engines on both continents would really know for sure whether the engines were the same or different. .  But, when the Ford 3.0 "Vulcan" was introduced for the '86 Taurus, I recall something about the oil pump being designed to specifically handle 5w-30, a shockingly "thin" oil for year-round use at the time.  Ten years later or so, the same thing with the Triton V-10 for 5w-20 and I think I recall Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)s admonishing dealers to not fill them with heavier weight oil both for cold start protection and because there would actually be a noticable difference in fuel consumption, unlike many engines where differences were in tenths of a mile per gallon.  As far as full synthetic vs. partial synthetic, the same as weights of oil, if in doubt, check the manual, especially if you want to keep the warranty in effect.  Another issue which may invite controversy is the use of synthetics too soon if in an engine that didn't specify it in the first place.  There were claims of improper break-in, with oil consumption remaining high for some time.  Some claim the Triton (and some others) are to be run somewhat hard; not abused, but not babied, either.  And that's with whatever factory fill of whatever they put in it for whatever time or miles were specified.

Someone with an owner's manual might comment on what it says regarding oil, break-in, when one can start towing, etc.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2017, 03:07:38 am by Michelle Dungan » Logged
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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2017, 09:49:29 am »

Oil and tires do always bring out the opinions!  I will leave tires for another day and concentrate on oil.   My rule is to go by the owners manual 100%, if the engine calls for 5-20 that is what I use for I do not have a PhD in chemistry and I am not about to question the recommendations of Ford engineers for their engines.  Today's engines   are way to complicated and nothing like engines of even 10 years ago.  It is always interesting that folks invest well over $100,000 in their coaches and then worry about $100 annually in oil changes, the oil is the life blood of the engine...change the oil frequently and use the best oil possible.  Our coaches sit a fair amount and that generates a lot of moisture and therefore i change the oil every 6 moths and never exceed 5000 miles.  To each his own but good oil and a quality filter is cheap insurance.
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