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Trudy
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« on: December 07, 2010, 11:59:28 am »

Hey, anyone know if the heat on the holding tanks is 110 or 12v? Going to be traveling in cold weather and want to carry water (but obviously don't want any freezing problems). Thanks!!

~Trudy
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Trudy
TomHanlon
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2010, 03:23:18 pm »

The heated holding tanks are the black and the gray water tanks. I believe they are 12V so you can use them while going down the road. They would not be of much help if you could only use them when plugged in at night. You might want to call the factory to confirm this as I have been wrong before. The fresh water is kept from freezing by having heat in the living area.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2010, 03:40:51 pm »

Found out the hard way that tank heater & inside furnace will not keep the sanicon pump from freezing up.  All was well after we warmed up later in the day & dump was successfully accomplished.  Guess we could've done a manual dump but not sure how the sanicon valves wd/be operated or if they need to be.  I'll have to read up on that.
 Blush
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2010, 06:57:36 pm »

The values (both gray and black) are before the 3" pipe that runs from the tanks toward the sani-con and the 3" clean out. On ours you can see a cap on the back end under the bumper. If you remove this cap, this is where you can hook up the normal style stinky slinky hose and dump. You would open the black value first, then the after it has dumped, open the gray and allow it to dump and wash out your hose. This way you do not need to use the sani-con pump. Hope this helps.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2010, 07:01:43 pm »

Thanks Tom.  I'll take a closer look underneath when I'm trying to fix the leak near the macerator.
 obliged
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Trudy
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« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2010, 09:02:24 pm »

Thanks for your responses. Our trip got postponed and I'm just now checking back.  Embarrassed  Just too darn busy these days! 
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Trudy
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« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2010, 12:11:39 pm »

Hey Tom - I guess what I meant to say is "What if one or both valves fail?"  not the pump itself.
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gl1500
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« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2010, 01:55:45 pm »

After dumping your holding tanks and your gate valves are closed, I add some anti-freeze to the grey water side through one of the sinks.  Then I open the grey tank dump valve and allow anti-freeze to flow to the Sani-con to prevent it freezing.  Then I close the valve and add anti-freeze to both the grey and black tanks through the toilet and a sink.  This, I find, allows me to use my Coach in the winter and still be able to dump. Our dump station here in N. Idaho is open all year.   Anyways, it works for me.
      Bob
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2010, 02:41:42 pm »

Hey Tom - I guess what I meant to say is "What if one or both valves fail?"  not the pump itself.

Bob has the correct procedure for winterizing the values, just be sure you use RV anti-freeze and not windshield washer or automotive anti-freeze. They are different and can do damage to the seals. If your values will not open with the electric button, first check to make sure the house batteries are turned on (the switch by the side door) and charged. You can try sliding under the rear and manully put the valves open, works sometimes. If they are frozen, use a hair dryer on them, also works sometimes.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2010, 09:19:49 pm »

Have to agree with tom here.  had to manually open valve after wire problem with the grey tank. easy to do.  You must remember to have a spare slinky hose with you to drain manually.  As I recall, someone on here has modified thier MH with a holder for the slinky.  They used a pvc pipe to hold the slinky and attached that to the frame near the generator.  .

DJM
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2010, 03:25:51 pm »

 Embarrassed
Either I have to start working out or your "easy to do" grey tank valve opening is a bit easier than mine.  I have 2 electro-mechanical valves; they do each have a handle but - for the life of me - I can't get either of them to budge manually.  Thought there might be an electrical cut-off or something.  Just wondering; haven't had to resort to that yet & simply trying to educate myself ICE.
 obliged
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2010, 04:37:40 pm »

Like I said "works sometimes". Sometimes it don't. Just hope you never have to do it for real, which is most likley the case.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #12 on: December 25, 2010, 01:04:44 pm »

Thanks Tom.  I'll take a closer look underneath when I'm trying to fix the leak near the macerator.
 obliged
"Pesky small leak" turned out to be a sheared, internal brass bolt (1 of 4) connecting the armature assy to the macerater blade housing.  Only found 1/2 the bolt so I guess that speaks to the macerator's power to be able to pass the other half & mating cap nut through!  Once again, father-in-law's dream tool room came through.  Instead of simply ordering the bolt through the Sani-con folks, we just cut to length & threaded a similar diameter brass rod, put some marine seal on the reused paper gasket, cleaned off the blades (they were really wound up w/hair, possibly some sort of cardboard - a sanicon no-no, etc. - a wonder it was working at all!) reinstalled & as Jackie Gleason would say: Away we go!
 Wink
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