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Author Topic: Water Drain valves on 2350  (Read 1502 times)
lmichael
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« on: February 17, 2011, 01:59:22 pm »

I have 3 water drain valves on the large storage bay/drawer side, and I'm not sure what 2 of them are for.  I do know the back one is for draining the fresh water tank.  The other 2 may be for blowing out the lines for winterizing??  Any thoughts?  Also, the fresh water tank drains very slowly.  I was having problems filling the tank, so I checked the hose under the bed and found it bowed in the middle.  I supported it all along the run and made sure it sloped to the tank, and that corrected that problem.  I also found a kink in the overflow/vent tube just outside the water tank, and the tube was full of mold.  I replaced this tube with a stronger tube and made sure it drained properly.  I thought that might improve the drain flow, too, but it had no affect. 
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2011, 04:02:16 pm »

The two drains in the floor that are together, drains the pressured plumbing.  You open those valves and open all faucets, both hot and  cold, and don't forget the outside shower too.  Gravity drains it all.  It is for winterizing purposes.

About the fresh water tank drain, some people experience plastic debris getting into the drain and/or the pump.  The debris is "tank plastic" from when the holes were drilled to accomodate the tubes.  The factory should be better about collecting the debris before installation.  It is a common problem among many motor home manufactures.  Still there is no excuse for that.  Kinked tubes is something that shouldn't be either.  I think you can purchase spiral plastic tube stiffeners, designed to prevent tube kinking.  But I don't know where to buy them.

About the mold.  Unfortunately that is normal.  That is why we all need to following the chlorine bleach process in the owners manual, to sterilize the entire plumbing system just before your first trip of the year.  And don't forget to include the hot water tank.
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lmichael
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2011, 10:43:11 am »

Thanks for the info, Ron.  When I replaced the overflow line, I did find a piece of plastic in the line.  I'll bet there's more in the drain line that's causing my slow drain problem.  I'm planning on replacing the water pump soon, so I'll check all the lines under the bed. 
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« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2011, 12:19:12 pm »

I will mention this just to be complete about it.

I bought a cheap 99 cent blow-out plug from Wal-Mart that screws into the shore water supply fitting on the outside of the motor home.  After I let the system drain via gravity, I close all faucets, screw on that thing, and blow out anything remaining using my air compressor blow gun.  I admit barely anything more comes out, hardly worth any effort with my 2007 2350.  But other models and model years may benefit more, pending how the plumbing is routed and the slope of the parking area for your own motor home.

Here is the blow-out plug.


Here is the blow gun I use.
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lmichael
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2011, 03:50:07 pm »

I've been thinking about making a blow-out from an old hose and misc fittings, so you've saved me some time & frustration--not to mention it will probably work better.  Since we live in an area with a moderate climate (although not this year), I've been wanting to winterize by blowing out the system instead of using rv antifreeze.  I used rv antifreeze last year and this year, and I have to confess an error I made both years.  I did the most obvious things - drained the water heater tank, switched the by-pass valve, ran the antifreeze through the hot & cold water taps/inside & outside shower head/toilet line.  Then when I de-winterized and used the kitchen sink, I got a small shower from the spray nozzle that I failed to even notice when I winterized.  Those of you in colder climates can laugh now.  My check list now has "remove kitchen spray nozzle".  Anyway, I'm off to Walmart...
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2011, 03:53:29 pm »

Ron, why don't you use the nozzle for inflating your tires on the blow out plug? Also you might want to have someone hold the air to the blow out plug while you turn on, then off each facet. That way you blow the water out of the line to each facet also, not just to the low point drains. I always blow out my lines before adding the RV anti-freeze.
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« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2011, 05:44:30 pm »

Tom, that would work better yet.  Good idea for the faucet plumbing

About draining all water from the entire rig.......I don't know how to completely empty the hot water tank.  When I remove the plastic hot water heater drain plug and blow out the system, there is still 1/2 gallon of water in that tank.  I know this because a year ago over the winter, I replaced my 110V heating element.  To my surprise, a lot of water came out.  I talked with the tank parts fellow who sold me the new element and he confirmed that.  He said it is a safeguard, in-case when plugged in during storage, someone accidentally turns on the 110v heating element with a dry system.  There is enough water in the tank to prevent the element from burning up.  I suppose the boiling sound would be the alarm system.
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« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2011, 07:00:48 pm »

Ron according to the techs I used to work with, they also told me that you should leave water in the bottom of the tank. Like you said if the electric water heater is turned on, it will heat the water until the thermostat turns it off. It will work just like when the tank is full. If you don't have any water, the heating element will burn up. I asked them about the water freezing and they said it would be alright because the ice would expand upward into the tank that is now just air, pushing the extra air out the pressure relief valve. They said it is like an ice cube tray, the ice just expands upward. As long as it can expand it would not do any damage. If you leave the tank full of water, then it would expand outward and burst the tank.
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #8 on: February 19, 2011, 10:50:44 am »

Ah, that makes perfect sense.  Thanks Tom for that explanation.
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« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2011, 10:37:36 pm »

There is also an air attachment that fits on the valve stem with a small clip like feature that holds in on. I have a Black & Decker small air pump you can set on any pressure. I set mine on 30 pounds, go inside and turn on one faucet at a time.

Sorry, I should have said an "air chuck" has the attachment.
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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2011, 09:48:09 pm »

great replies all:

I too blow out my lines with a blowout plug I made from brass parts I obtained from the local non big box hardware store.  I just attach the compressor and turn on each spigot in progression.  Works good. When you order your MH be sure to add a winter bypass (wish I did).  On the water tank fill, if you take an old hose and cut off the male end you can push the hose right down into the plastic holding tank and fill your tank very quickly.  I cut off a lot of hose so that I have a short hose that does not take up  lots of room in storage.  Make sure you purchase the smaller diameter hose so that it slides easy. 

Waiting on another 10 inches of the white stuff tonight. Can not wait for camping season.

Happy trails.

David
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lmichael
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« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2011, 10:24:48 am »

David, if the by-pass valve you mentioned is the one for the water heater, you have one under the bottom drawer on the 2350 that comes standard on all PCs.
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2011, 12:34:43 pm »

Speaking of the bypass valves for the hot water heater.......

I have never touched mine in the 4 years we've owned ours.  Why would anyone need to bypass the hot water heater?  Am I missing something?
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« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2011, 01:33:06 pm »

Ron, going as I always do to Google, I got the answer I thought - it's for winterizing.  The reason, which I didn't really know, is as follows.


Your RV water heater typically holds 6-10 gallons of water. In order to prevent having to fill your water heater completely with antifreeze during winterization, a bypass is installed to eliminate the water tank from the RV plumbing circuit, and so both the hot and cold water systems are tied together. This can save you a lot of money and it makes de-winterizing much easier.


Read more: How to Install an RV Water Heater Bypass Kit | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4546786_install-water-heater-bypass-kit.html#ixzz1EcTQ6ugK

Jerry
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2011, 01:51:41 pm »

Oh, I got it!  Thanks.
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