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Author Topic: Sani-Con electrical schematic  (Read 1069 times)
Trudy
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« on: April 24, 2011, 09:39:34 pm »

Does anyone have an electrical schematic of the Sani-Con pump? Ours quit and my husband thinks its an electrical problem.

Actually, he just said he wouldn't mind having a schematic of the whole motorhome!!
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Trudy
aimee
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2011, 11:07:41 pm »

Great idea!  As soon as I finally get a free moment  rolling on the floor  I'm going to publish the wiki manuals software I have so that owners can create or share their own manuals or schematics, etc. I keep thinking I'll get a chance, but  shrug
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Bob Mahon
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« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2011, 06:13:40 am »

Trudy,
You didn't say what particular feature of the Sani-Con stopped working but I suspect it's the Macerator rather than the valves. Have your Hub go back by the Sani-Con & valve switches and put his hand behind the pump switch. He'll probably find 2 female push-on (Sta-Kon type) connections.
As they are exposed and prone to corrosion, simply pulling them off the terminals and pushing them back on can often help.
As a side, when this happens to me I'll most often replace the switch with a waterproof type having sealed wires coming out and solder the leads into the system I'm having problems with. I'll then shrink-wrap (put the shrink-wrap on the lead before you solder) the soldered area and, after shrinking the tube, finally apply liquid tape. On simple 2 position on/off (SPST or DPST) switches there are no polarity concerns. I've done this so many times over the years I've amassed quite a collection of used switches I'll someday find a use for (yeah - right! - anybody interested in a used but good 1968 collector's edition MOPAR rocker switch?).

Aimee,
If you want to try, send me one of the schematics. I'll use Auto-Cad to make a pictorial diagram that many may find easier to follow. But, do it before the weather changes and we hit the road again (the Windows 7 machine I carry while traveling doesn't like Auto-Cad).
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« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2011, 07:10:22 am »

Trudy, before you do anything else, make sure the battery disconnect switch by the door is turned on and not in the storage position. The sani-con is a 12 volt system and when the switch is off neither the pump or the valves will work.  I found this out the hard way, but that is another story with an unhappy ending, like gray water all over me. pulling hair out pulling hair out pulling hair out
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2011, 08:18:53 am »

Our Sani-Con quit while traveling.  The On/Off switch was exposed behind the panel (exposed to weather).  I simply replaced the switch and coated it with weatherproof gel.  Weatherproofing as explained by rmmpe would probably be better.

By the way, our step starting going in and out on its own while traveling.  Same problem.  The switch on the door was exposed to weather.  Same solution.
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Bob Mahon
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« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2011, 09:06:55 am »

Gray water, Tom?

When we were going through the initial inspection before purchasing our 2007 2350, the Salesman was instructing me how to use the Sani-Con system.
Well, there was no cap on the discharge and when I turned the macerator on was a little surprised when the black tank contents were ejected in my direction. Peg said she didn't know I could still move that fast. Bolt

The dealer should have made sure the tanks were empty and he was extremely apologetic about the incident (while also becoming more accommodating).
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« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2011, 11:55:12 am »

Our Sani-Con quit while traveling.  The On/Off switch was exposed behind the panel (exposed to weather).  I simply replaced the switch and coated it with weatherproof gel.  Weatherproofing as explained by rmmpe would probably be better.

By the way, our step starting going in and out on its own while traveling.  Same problem.  The switch on the door was exposed to weather.  Same solution.


"weatherproof gel." any special place to find. This is one place Cruiser could have "Shown Off" maybe not every place but some of the main places they could have Sealed these wires a little better.
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« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2011, 01:55:05 pm »

Yep, such gel or a spray should be included in the manufacturing process.  It's not just a Phoenix deficiency.  Every motor home company fails in this department.  The trouble is amplified, the more "do-dads" you have.  Have a conventional sewer hose instead of a sanicon.  Have a mechanical step instead of a motorized one.  That eliminates two problem areas right there.  LOL

As I am sure of all, I'd rather have the features and just add a protectant.  Since I store my PC indoors in winter, and my seasonal driving has been relatively dry, I've become very lazy about that.  Thanks for the reminder.
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« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2011, 04:00:13 pm »

You're right Ron, 4 rv's and there all the same as far as outside wiring. I am with you, I would not mind paying a little more for some quality in these areas. Just my simple opinion.
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« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2011, 06:07:09 pm »

Billy;

When I purchased my snowplow for  my truck a few years ago, the dealer gave me weatherproof gel for the electical connections.  I asked him what it was called and he said it is sold as di-electric grease.  I think that spelling is somewhat correct.. rolling on the floor

David
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JackD
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« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2011, 09:07:01 am »

Exactly as David says --- I'm pretty sure it's dielectric grease -- but the most complete solution is the procedure rmmpe says.

Trudy, I'm assuming your Hub has turned the screw in the hub of the pump?  When mine "quit" it was due to jamming in the macerator section, that I thought was electrical.  I did also replace the pump later, but as Tom says, that's another story.

Jack
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billy
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« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2011, 12:39:42 pm »

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506555

Just stumbled across this, go figure.    shrug
« Last Edit: April 26, 2011, 07:00:07 pm by billy » Logged

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Trudy
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« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2011, 10:16:11 pm »

Well, guess what? He fixed it by doing what Jack said. Guess it wasn't electrical after all. One reason he thought it might be is there seems to be 2 tiny red wires hanging lose by the system. It looks to me like a wire was cut, leaving 2 ends hanging. He's thinking it might have something to do with LED lights that are supposed to light up when using the pump (if I understood him correctly, which I seldom do  shrug). I'll have to take a pic and post it to see what you guys think.

Thank you all for your responses. Gonna have to get some of that grease I guess. Btw, he'd still sure like to have electrical schematic of the motorhome!! Hope Aimee can come up with that.
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Trudy
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« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2011, 11:10:00 pm »

I should have told y'all our tanks and flushing valves were marked wrong. Don't you think that caused some confusion     shrug
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JackD
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« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2011, 11:36:11 am »

I should have told y'all our tanks and flushing valves were marked wrong. Don't you think that caused some confusion     shrug

WOW!!!  I bet!

Trudy -- glad he got it fixed ---

Jack
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