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Geojude
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« on: October 03, 2011, 08:38:16 pm »

Anyone ever had a problem with the auto drain valves for the holding tanks?  I can hear the grey water one cycling when the switch is on, but don't hear anything for the black water one, even though the light comes on.  Before I go tearing into things, I wondered if anyone had any ideas/advice.

Thanks - George
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2011, 07:08:30 am »

George, the black water tank is in the middle of the PC back by the rear bumper. It is just far enough away that you might not hear it working. You can lay by the side, push the button and see the handle moving. If it is opening, it is doing what it should. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Tom Hanlon
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2011, 01:13:02 pm »

Thanks Tom - I will check it out and keep my fingers crossed.

George
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2011, 03:43:01 pm »

On the 2350, both valves are physically close to eachother, and close to the mascerator pump.  Both are heard with equal volume of "eaeaeaear".  If you look underneath the rig when flipping a switch, you can see each valve open and close.
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Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
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« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2011, 04:46:25 pm »

The electric valves in my unit gave me problems the first year.. especially on cold weather. The often would not open. I bought manual valves from about ten bucks each replaced the electric valves... Not really any harder to use than the electric ones, you can bend down to push a buttion, or bend down to pull a lever.
Alan J.
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2011, 05:33:28 pm »

You are right......But that takes the fun out of it.  Smile
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« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2011, 05:43:58 pm »

On my 2350 PC the black tank is in the middle of the coach and there is 15" between the gray handle and the black handle. Also the gray water tank is between where I stand to push the buttons and the black tank handle. I do not, I repeat, I do not hear the black water valve when I open or close the valve. Maybe things are a little different on the older models, like Ron has.
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Geojude
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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2011, 11:07:28 pm »

Tom,

Crawled underneath this weekend and found that the black water tank drain valve is not moving.  I read on the Barker site that the auto-drain can be disconnected so that the valve can be operated manually.  Has anyone ever done this?  I am not terribly mechanically minded, so I'm inclined to take it in somewhere, but would like to save some money if it is easy enough to do yourself.

George
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2011, 07:22:34 am »

George,

I would suggest that you call the factory and ask them how to fix the problem. It sounds to me like the valve has frozen shut. If it was mine, I would spray the valve around the handles shaft with WD40 and try pulling on the handle.  I would also check the wires to make sure they have a good contact. But the factory would know best.

Tom
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2011, 08:35:35 am »

I like Tom's advise to lube the track/slider area and pull manually to make sure it's not stuck.  Also check wiring.
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« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2011, 02:26:51 pm »

One suggestion I would make for the winter is to put antifreeze (RV or Windshield Wiper type) in the gray water tank, then open the dump valve and allow it to get to the macerator pump.  Cycle the pump on momentarily to allow the fluid into the pump impellers.  Then add more fluid in both the black and gray water tanks to bathe the dump valves in antifreeze fluid.  This will protect both valves from being frozen shut and the pumps impellers from damage.  Do this after you have dumped and cleaned the tanks at the end of the season.  If you use the coach in the winter, then you need to do this after each dump.  Plus, only use the anti-freeze windshield wiper fluid in your p-traps and holding tanks, not in your fresh water system.  It cost less than RV anti-freeze and performs the same function.  Just my thoughts.
     Bob
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JackD
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« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2011, 05:21:38 pm »

I had paper get lodged between the disc & seat of the black water tank, so the valve wouldn't seat. Disconnecting the drive fitting from the shaft was very easy, and after moving the shaft a few times, the paper cleared and valve seated.  I don't think you'll have any problem disconneting the drive, and moving the valve stem manually.  Once you move the shaft, a little lube might help.  I'd tryy this before taking the valve apart.
Jack
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Geojude
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« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2011, 04:03:51 pm »

Further update:  crawled underneath on Saturday and disconnected the auto-drain mechanism from the valve and voila! - the valve opens and closes manually.  It's kind of a pain to get to, but I can operate in that mode for the rest of the season (probably a trip out this weekend), and then winterize and deal with the issue in the spring.

George

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