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Author Topic: How does your PC ride?  (Read 1752 times)
TomHanlon
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PCPC
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PurchDate: 11/11/11
Model: 2552
ModelYear: 2012
Slide: Yes
IntColor: Cherry
ExtColor: full paint Cafe
Location: Maryland
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« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2011, 03:09:12 pm »

Thanks George, I will talk to Kermit when I pick up the new PC. Getting closer to that day and I can hardly wait.
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Tom Hanlon
Current PC 2012 2552 Full paint Cafe
First PC 2010 2350 Full paint Umbra
BandD
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Model: 2350 Ford
ModelYear: 2007
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ExtColor: white above blue
Location: SF East Bay Area (CA)
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« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2011, 11:18:46 am »

We just took our used 2007 2350 out for our first weekend.  The road west out of Pedtaluma, CA toward the coast is smooth blacktop with both curves and hills.  The PC felt like a sports car to us.  Stiff for small bumps.  When the road tilted left, the coach followed.  There was never any rolling motion that wasn't an echo of the road's surface.  No bouncing up and down after a bump.

We had a full load of fuel and water and not much else.  Just our pillows and jammies.

I'd say the ride was fantastic.  I'll look underneath later and let you know if there are any
apparent suspension mods.  I've sure given up on the supplemental mods like Ron made
for now!

Bill and Diane
 
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Bill Cox and Diane Puntenney
ron.dittmer
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PCPC
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Helpful Rating: 177
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OwnPC: Yes
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PurchDate: June 2007
Model: 2350 Ford
ModelYear: 2007
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ExtColor: FullBody Gray
Location: Dundee, IL
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« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2011, 01:43:30 pm »

Bill & Diane,

First look underneath the rig, just behind the rear axle.  Is there a bar that goes left to right?  If so, somebody previously had added a rear sway bar.  The 2006/2007 Ford E350 chassis is not equipped with one back there when it was brand new.

About the front sway bar, if the ends of the front bar goes through holes into the lower control arms with rubber grommets, then you have the stock front sway bar.

Let me know what you find.  If you are picture savy, then take some pics and share them.

If you have no upgrades of any kind, I will then ask you to perform a small easy experiment when driving your 2350 next time.

Look through my post here to see my aftermarket sway bars to give you an idea of what to be looking for.
http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,8.0.html
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 01:45:39 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
Stored At Home In Our Heated Garage (Well-Lit & Warm Comfort In Winter)
BandD
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« Reply #18 on: January 30, 2012, 07:50:42 pm »

Hi Folks,

Second weekend cruise, and I've looked more carefully under the rig.  There's a front anti-sway bar
that fits into holes in the axles?  There's nothing like an anti-sway bar on the rear.

What was that experiment, Ron?

P.S. Got a longer fix-it list this time, including the water pump surge tank.  It's really noisy the way
that it is!

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Bill Cox and Diane Puntenney
ron.dittmer
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PCPC
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Helpful Rating: 177
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OwnPC: Yes
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ExtColor: FullBody Gray
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« Reply #19 on: January 30, 2012, 10:40:05 pm »

The pre-2008 E350 chassis does not come with a rear sway bar of any kind.  The front bar is the same one installed on an E150 van, so how good is that one for such an extreme application?  If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you could buy heavy duty Helwigs off the internet fairly reasonable.  My brother and I installed a rear on his E350 motor home without issues and he was very happy with the improvement.  I encouraged him to get a front bar, but he kept his original with worn bushings too.

I went all out spending $3900 from a local specialty shop which makes our 2007 E350 PC chassis handle beautifully.  I'll never know if I went overboard, but I can say it was well worth every penny.  I had them install both front and rear heavy duty sway bars, rear trac bar, heavy duty front steering stabilizer, all shocks replaced with Koni made-for-motor home, and a front end alignment.  What I learned about all this back then, I would do in a particular order to see how little money I could get by with.  At an absolute minimum, I strongly advise to get front and rear heavy duty sway bars and a front end alignment, then go from there.
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Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
Stored At Home In Our Heated Garage (Well-Lit & Warm Comfort In Winter)
ge_montana
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« Reply #20 on: February 03, 2012, 05:04:37 pm »

I find the 2551 to have an improved ride, with alignment, safe-t-break and bilsteins. It drives more like a panel truck, and the total cost for these  three services is about $1,100.

The alignment shop put our tires at 85 lbs, need to check that out based on other comments.

ge.montana
2551S
2010
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Greg Matthews
Photographer
EastOfYellowstone.com
bobander
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« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2012, 08:31:19 pm »

I find the 2551 to have an improved ride, with alignment, safe-t-break and bilsteins. It drives more like a panel truck, and the total cost for these  three services is about $1,100.

The alignment shop put our tires at 85 lbs, need to check that out based on other comments.

ge.montana
2551S
2010

See the link below for weight info on my 2010 2551S, I am now running 70 psi front and rear and find the ride and handling to be great.

Bob

http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,656.msg4381.html#msg4381
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2010  PC 2551
ron.dittmer
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« Reply #22 on: February 04, 2012, 09:18:13 am »

More air in the tires will improve handling by reducing tire sidewall sloshing.  It also improves fuel economy a bit.  But you get a harsher ride, uneven threadwear, and lesser grip on the road.

My PC has a sticker on the driver door piller, placed by PC-USA. stating 65 front, 60 rear.  I add 5 psi more all around because the tires look too flat, and I like the handling & fuel economy better.  So far I don't see uneven thread wear, but I only have 14k on the chassis.

I really need to do what bobander did and get my rig weighed while on a multi-week trip.  Then go from there to get it right.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2012, 09:22:24 am by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
Stored At Home In Our Heated Garage (Well-Lit & Warm Comfort In Winter)
bobander
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Helpful Rating: 133
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« Reply #23 on: February 04, 2012, 07:49:06 pm »

More air in the tires will improve handling by reducing tire sidewall sloshing.  It also improves fuel economy a bit.  But you get a harsher ride, uneven threadwear, and lesser grip on the road.

In my experience, higher pressure than necessary on the front tires also results in sloppy steering response.  My understanding is that the overinflated tire has less contact with the road (as Ron mentioned) and therefore less control when steering.  I have experienced this with my previous truck/camper and with the PC.  The door sticker on my 2010 2551S applied by PC specifies 75 front and 80 rear, too high according to the Michelin load/weight info when considering the actual weights of the loaded RV.  See my referenced link above for more info on actual weights for my 2010 2551S.

Bob
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2010  PC 2551
classact
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« Reply #24 on: February 19, 2012, 01:36:03 am »

Awesome comments all. Really appreciate everyone chiming in.

With regard to the MOR/ryde causing a "flexing of the coach causing a cracked roof" - I can't fathom how the MOR/ryde could be the cause of this.  Our experience has been that it not only softened the ride but stablized the handling as well.  The system has been used in many ambulance vehicles, airport shuttles, and other applications where ride quality is especially important.   Just speaking from my own experience here.  While I hope that any coach we purchase in the future won't need any ride issues addressed (I know, dream on) I wouldn't hestitate to add them to a coach in the future.
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2007 Jayco Melbourne
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BandD
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« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2012, 01:00:29 pm »

Hi Folks,
Our 2350 rides very well.  We've tried it on rolling, hilly roads (with full water and camping stuff) and loved the positive feeling of control, and of knowing what the chassis is doing.  I looked under the rig and found what looks like a factory-installed anti-sway bar on the front, and nothing other than springs and shocks on the back.

Ron suggested that we might do an experiment with the rig.  Ron?

Bill
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Bill Cox and Diane Puntenney
ron.dittmer
SuperHero Member
PCPC
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Helpful Rating: 177
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OwnPC: Yes
NewUsed: New
PurchDate: June 2007
Model: 2350 Ford
ModelYear: 2007
Slide: No
IntColor: Cherry&Green
ExtColor: FullBody Gray
Location: Dundee, IL
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« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2012, 01:19:16 pm »

BandD, Try these experiments.

Stand in the back of your 2007 2350 just forward of the bed, face forward and see if you can rock the rig side to side.  Make sure it is not closely parked to a wall or tree or something.  How successful are you?

While driving at about 20 -25mph, pretend a child just darted out into the street and do a quick maneuver, quick-left, quick-right, quick straight.  Do it with someone in back to observe what happens.  Does the rig tip and tilt with the rear all over the road?  Are you able to maintain good control?  Try it again, the 2nd time brake hard while doing that.

Have someone in back while in a tight 180 degree turn in a parking lot.  Maybe have them do it while you are outside observing.  Does the rear of the rig lean hard while in the turn?

A rig leaning very hard means one pair of rear wheels has very little load, and the other pair is over-loaded.  That in itself is not the concern.  The concern is braking hard under this condition.  You need your brakes to do their best under the worst of circumstances.

Picture yourself winding down a canyon byway applying the brake while taking the turns.  Imagine yourself misjudging a sharp curve causing you to slam the brakes.  You get the picture.  You want all 6 tires firmly planted while braking hard in sharp turns.  Don't say you don't drive that way.  Your day will come when you misjudge a tight turn with steep drop-offs abound.  The condition is agravated further with a tow vehicle.

Even if you only add a rear heavy duty sway bar to your older chassis lacking any type of rear bar, that will have the greatest impact.  But I would not stop there.

My brother with his little 21' Starflyte on a 1998 E350 swore his rig handled fine.  I convinced him to invest in a rear HD sway bar anyway.  Afterward he said it was miraculous.  He had no idea it could improve so much.  I never could convince him to invest further.....especially replacing his front sway bar with worn out bushings.
« Last Edit: February 22, 2012, 03:40:08 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
Stored At Home In Our Heated Garage (Well-Lit & Warm Comfort In Winter)
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