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Author Topic: Improvements & Enhancements, 2007 PC-2350  (Read 18591 times)
Barry-Sue
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« Reply #45 on: July 20, 2012, 09:45:16 am »

Quote
My sheets fit PERFECT.  I bought mattress covers from JC Penney's.

Ann

   See my post on the velcro straps I added to my sheets http://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php/topic,714.msg4852.html#msg4852.  They work great.   Yes, these beds are very comfortable.




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« Reply #46 on: July 20, 2012, 10:54:15 am »

I was on line last night and found my sheet snuggers at a Suspender company.  They come 4 to a package so I got 2 packages.  Instead of the metal toothed suspender end they have what reminds me of the garter we had for stockings when I was a kid.  That way they are really secure and won't rip the sheets.  The mattress covers and the sheets have elastic all the way around but still need a little snugging up.

I didn't purchase the quilted bedspreads because I have a perfect color comforter down at our Arizona place which I bought for our queen size bed and didn't use it.  It even has matching pillow shams.  I will just cut it in half and bind off the cut portion and it is going to be perfect.
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« Reply #47 on: August 20, 2012, 08:29:13 pm »

Ron: Vince and I really like the  neat improvements that you have done to your 2350 !!!!
On our 2350's door, we have a small hydrolic door closer .... do you have that as well ?  I like the extra cable that you have but wondered if you have both items ?

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« Reply #48 on: August 20, 2012, 09:25:13 pm »

For many years including our 2007, PCs did not come with any kind of door closure device.  I came up with the rope thingy and it works so well for us that we never considered upgrading to the one mounted on PCs today.

BTW:  Thanks for the compliment on my "Improvements" post.  It's nice to know people still find it and read through it.  Some of my ideas no longer apply to later rigs, but to someone buying an older rig, they could relate to much more.
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« Reply #49 on: October 27, 2012, 12:27:53 pm »

Hi Ron,

Overall a very enlightening and educational write-up.  Thanks for taking the time to do this, and continuing to monitor this topic.

Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

I'm completely unfamiliar with the wall and door construction of the PC.  Over the years I've had no problem remodeling/repairing various walls and windows in regular buildings, including stick-built and concrete wall structures.  But for some reason, starting any repair on the PC is totally intimidating.  (Probably because the wife doesn't want me to make it worse as I don't know what I'm getting into!)  Any insights into wall structure would be appreciated.

And this also pertains to item #4, your Entry Door Limiter.  How did you mount the bold to the door?  I can't tell from the picture.  Please provide additional details.  And about the rope:  you said it stretches a little.  When I ask about this at a hardware store, they seem to think I'm referring to bungie cord -- is that what you used?

Thanks in advance for the info.

--GeorgeB

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« Reply #50 on: October 27, 2012, 09:09:54 pm »

Hi George,

I received your email and will email you my writeup and template.

I never addressed the window shade in the entry door.  The discs I used were selected for their durability, a good match, and look factory-like to me, rather than the after-thought that it is.  

Because your door requires an odd shape plate, maybe something of painted metal would be a better choice.  Just be sure the material is thick enough as not to deform if hit hard.

The walls of PCs use a vacubonded process  The outer material is a quality strong gel coat fiberglass.  The inside finished wall is a masonite type of material finished with a paper coating that is water & stain resistant and looks nice.  Between the outside and inside walls is steel framing similar to studs on a house with top plate and bottom plates.  The air space is filled with block foam.  The foam is very similar to a disposable styrofoam cooler.  There is also special metal framing used for windows and a/c unit.

Kermit explained this is how the assembly process is done.  An adhesive is applied to inside of the fiberglass and masonite panels, and also to both sides of the block foam, steel frame, and window frames.  All components are aligned and then placed inside a huge baggie-like thing and the air is sucked out to draw the masonite and fiberglass together.  It is sort of a clamping method to assure everything makes contact evenly.  After the adhesive has cured, that wall panel is ready for the motor home.

If you want to mount anything substantial, say a shelf or TV.  Just like at home, it is best to locate a stud.  Screws and wall anchors are only as strong as the inside wall board which is only 1/8" thick.  It's not much.  I don't advise to use self-tapping screws in the wall board, but rather pre-drill a pilot hole to the inside diameter of the screw threads.  This assures the masonite won't fracture, creating a weakened condition.

Your 2008 rig has a gas charged door closure, right?  Maybe the door closure was introduced in 2009.  I did not use a bungy cord.  It is regular rope.  Any regular rope stretches a tiny little bit when pulled hard.  A chain or cable for example would not stretch at all which would provide an abrupt stop.  My button on the door for the rope to loop around, is screwed on a short threaded rod.  That rod is screwed into the sheet metal of the door.  I tapped threads into the hole of the door metal.  Given the stresses are at 90 degrees to the tapped hole, there is no concern of the button ripping out from the door, or deforming the metal door in any way.
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« Reply #51 on: October 27, 2012, 10:19:26 pm »

Wow!  Thanks for the through explanation, especially the structural information.  That could be useful -- assuming the wife will allow me to put any holes in any wall (she's okay with the window shade anchor mod, just doesn't want ANY holes in any walls).  I'll keep working on her.

Looking at the door problem again, I'll probably have to post a separate thread regarding that crack, including a pix or two.

I'm guessing the foam is somewhat more dense than a foam cooler, closer to a structural foam panel?  In my experience, studs are almost never where you need them!  In maintaining a 60+ year-old concrete block motel, years ago I started using almost exclusively Toggler Alligator anchors http://www.toggler.com/products/alligator/overview.php#.  While most of the walls were concrete, I used the same anchors in hollow walls, including walls with just standard paneling.  Very rarely did I have to resort to lead anchors in the concrete.  So do you think these might work for light applications in the PC?  I'm thinking coffee cup/eye glass shelves, maybe a magazine rack.

And now I need to locate one of my two stud finders, both in storage, hopefully not buried too deeply.  Else I'll be buying a 3rd.

My 2008 2551 does NOT have a piston-type door closer, just a regular door.  But I see your point about rope vs. metal chain or cable.

As for the door stud for the rope:  I think that you're saying that the door frame is thick enough to allow sufficient threads to accommodate the stress from a door swinging open, not necessarily due to a strong gusting wind, would that be correct?  And any reason a 1/4" or 5/16" SS bolt couldn't be used instead of a threaded rod with a bolt?

The explanation you provided goes a long way to reassuring me I may be able to tackle some routine repairs or simple mods.

Thank you again,

--GeorgeB
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« Reply #52 on: October 27, 2012, 11:25:04 pm »

Cup holders, eye glass shelves, even a towel bar, I feel all can be mounted using coarse thread wood screws, as long as you pre-drill avoiding masonite crumbling.  My towel rack in the bathroom here is just srewed into the wall board.


About the rope door stop, it "Is" strong enough for a strong gusty wind.
I selected the button as I call it, instead of a bolt for the ease of slipping the rope off, and so the rope would not get damaged from any sharp edges.  It  is deeper than most bolt heads offer so the rope stays on better.  Those buttons are sold at hardware stores and home improvement centers, most common in those loose hardware bins.  Not packaged on hooks.  I wish I knew their proper name.
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« Reply #53 on: October 28, 2012, 08:05:12 am »

I have two suggestions in addition to Ron's comments.

The first is that most RV factories give free tours of their plants that explain how an RV is made. If you live close to a manufacture, or are going by one, call them and ask about their tours. It is very interesting and informative. Also there used to be a three part video on "You Tube" showing Phoenix factory making a PC. I think it was made about the time your PC was made. I just searched You Tube for Phoenix Cruiser and found several videos, including one by Nexus. Now I will need to send some time watching them.

The second suggestion would be to remove one of the screws used by the factory to see what they think works. I believe you will find that now a days they are using self tapping 1 inch screws for most of their work. I don't know if they have changed the inside wall board since Ron's and your PC were made or not.
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« Reply #54 on: October 28, 2012, 12:46:36 pm »

Tom:  Thank you.  I'll have to rely on the YouTube videos.  Possibly traveling to Minnesota next spring, may jog down to Elkhart.   Full-timing in the PC with no toad -- we'd be reluctant to drive in to the Monaco coach factory here in Oregon!  I may try removing one of the door bolts, but in another post in General Discussion I learned that removing bolts (floor bolts in this case) may not be a good idea  Smile.  (Those bolts hold the generator and the LP tank, per Kermit.)  So I will cautiously approach this method.

Ron:  by button, I'm guessing you mean something that resembles a cabinet pull knob but is threaded to fit over the rod.  I think I've seen something like that, will have to check out the big hardware stores when we get near some.  Also thanks for the window shade anchor mod info, will start on that soon.  Thanks again for the information, very useful.

In the interim, I now have to deal with a cranky Westinghouse TV:  the remote isn't working, the volume up button on the tv is now the channel down control, etc.  Resolving this just jumped to the top of the todo list.

Thanks again,

--GeorgeB
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« Reply #55 on: October 28, 2012, 01:04:08 pm »

Right now, I am in need of the details regarding #5: Window Shade String Reinforcements.  One of the anchors in the window in the slide-out is in need of immediate attention before it comes completely out of the wall.  But I also have a beginning problem with one in the door, on the right-hand side immediately above the door handle; there is a crack developing which will eventually lead to the anchor pulling out.  Did you reinforce the ones in the door as well?  This particular one would require modifying the reinforcing disc (?) by trimming the most of the bottom.

--GeorgeB

I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

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« Reply #56 on: October 28, 2012, 04:17:44 pm »

I have used a fix different from Ron's, not better, just different.  I drill out the hole and install a wall anchor, after expanding in place I remove the screw and use a longer one for the length of the string holder, I added a large diameter fender washer for the string holder to seat against.  This has worked well for me.

Bob A

Okay, that's definitely another possibility.  I can get fender washers relatively easily, maybe even some pretty decorative ones. <g>  Down the road, if there was a problem, go with Ron's solution, which does seem to add more support.  I'll study the pix more, and ponder these two solutions further.

Your use of wall anchors is quite reassuring, and the pictures are very helpful.  My confidence is growing.

Thank you,

--GeorgeB
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« Reply #57 on: October 28, 2012, 05:03:34 pm »

The outside walls are 1 3/8 inches thick. Be carefull when using long screws that you do not go all the way through the wall to the outside, It will make you say bad words. 
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« Reply #58 on: October 28, 2012, 10:11:26 pm »

Oooooo  cool  I like Bobander's idea.  Like Tom says, be sure to consider wall thickness to prevent damage to the outside wall.  Insert a thin screw driver or long nail in the hole to measure depth before taking the next step.

Those wall anchors are made in a variety of sizes for different wall thicknesses.  Be sure to get the 1/8" thick wall size or the anchor could be permanently loose even after the collapse & fanning out behind the wall.  Bobander's top picture looks to be the right size.  The picture below is surely the WRONG size, shown for comparison.

WRONG One


How They Work
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« Reply #59 on: October 29, 2012, 09:05:48 am »

George

Quick check for you on the TV remote.  If the remote is able to control more than one type or model of TV it might need to be reprogrammed.  Most of the codes for the remotes and TV's are in the owner's manual.  Worst case you might have to get the codes off the internet.


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