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Author Topic: Cleaning Lime/Calcium Stains  (Read 774 times)
Barry-Sue
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« on: May 03, 2012, 10:59:33 am »

This winter I did not keep up on the water that was seeping out of the hot water heater.  As a result when I got home there were lime and/or calcium stains just under the door of the hot water heater and down the side of the motor home.  They looked pretty bad and would not rub off with just a wet rag.  I did not want to use harsh cleaners like LIME AWAY and CLR.

In the past I have used Turtle Wax BUG & TAR and TREE SAP REMOVER on other paint stains and thought I would give it a try here.  I applied a coat with a Q-Tip and  let it sit a few minutes.  I rubbed with a  cloth and to my surprise most of the stain came off.  Followed up with a second coat and the stain was completely gone.   Even though there are other cleaners on the market I chose to use the Bug & Tar remover since it was safe to use on clearcoat.   As always make sure you test it in an inconspicuous spot. 

I had the Bug & Tar remover on hand since it is great to get all the grime off your toad.   We bought our toad used and it was in need of a good cleaning since the other owner had towed it behind a motorhome.   We find with the PC we get very little road grime on the toad.

Barry
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ron.dittmer
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2012, 03:05:46 pm »

I would have thought that CLR and Lime Away type products would have been safe to use on any surface.  Was that a painted finish or a raw fiberglass finish?  Regardless, it is good to know the B&T remover works.

I believe kerosene is equivalent to that B&T remover.  I have used kerosene to remove lots of crud off my painted surfaces including my Corvette.  It is a very simple penetrating oil that has no effect on paint.  Just be sure the kerosene you use does not have any additives.  Use only pure kerosene.

Kerosene is also excellent for a car with an engine compartment that looks like a solid blob of grease & grime.  Spray down the entire engine compartment with kero, let it soak in, then spray again, then power wash off.  Today they sell more environmentally friendly cleaners, but I have not had the same good results.  The blobs of greasy crud doesn't disolve anywhere near as well.  I wonder what is more environmentally friendly?  Disolved crud, or half disolved crud?
« Last Edit: May 04, 2012, 03:21:46 pm by ron.dittmer » Logged

Ron Dittmer (wife Irene) 2007 Model 2350 Without A Slideout
Our Rig Is Available For Viewing Any Time Of Year In Dundee, IL
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Barry-Sue
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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2012, 08:39:02 am »

Ron,

    The area that we had to clean was the painted surface.  I always try to find cleaners that specify they are safe for clearcoat. 
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TomHanlon
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2012, 10:26:56 am »

I wonder what WD40 would do?
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Tom Hanlon
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aimee
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2012, 02:43:29 pm »

Here's what you do for calcium and lime stains.  It also works for general soap scum back at home:

You heat up 1 cup of vinegar (stove top or microwave)
Add 2T dish detergent
If you feel like it's very stubborn and you're going to need an abrasive, you can add 1T cornstarch.

Put it in a spray bottle and spray generously over the area. 

Let sit one hour and wipe and rinse.

Test the vinegar on your painted surface, but I've never had this to damage the surface of anything I've tried.

 Cheers
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Paul/Marilyn
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2012, 09:03:11 pm »

 Grin Will try this on some spots as soon as we get home!
Marilyn
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