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Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: dickreid1 on March 23, 2012, 04:10:31 pm

Title: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: dickreid1 on March 23, 2012, 04:10:31 pm
Please excuse a dumb question but how do I drain the tank after the chlorine treatment?

Dick in FL
2012 2910
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: kevin on March 23, 2012, 06:04:35 pm I seem to have missed the part where you put the stuff in, I'll tell you what I learned years ago & it seems to work. This is if I have left the system all winter & I think it may be sort of scuzzy.  I fill the water tank to about 2 thirds & put in some bleach, drive around the block (a mile sq with hill & dale) & let it sit overnight.  I then pump it through the lines, letting it into the two tanks.  Drive into town & get a coffee, then home & put a clear hose on the outside drain & drain the fresh tank.  I fill with water, drain & fill.  Pump through lines till I don't smell chlorine ,put a bunch of vinegar into water tank and drain the grey & black tanks, pump the vinegary water through the lines, drain all the tanks.  Fill & drain the fresh tank & I'm done.

This is what we used to do on sailboats.  And those tanks were really raunchy most of the time, so it may be a bit extreme.

Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: dickreid1 on March 23, 2012, 08:13:30 pm

Thanks, but the question is how to drain the tank.  I could not see the tank or any tubing leading from the gravity fill that would disclose the tanks' location, drain or drain valve.   

After a lot of time under the coach finding nothing, the only thing left was that the tank is under the bed (adding 300 plus pounds on the slide!). I extended the slide to look underneath.  There, at last, was a tube that likely was a drain.  Digging under the mattress I found a panel secured with four screws (torx?).  Can someone who knows the 2910 tell me what to do next?

Dick from FL
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: lmichael on March 23, 2012, 09:11:02 pm
Not familiar with the 2910, but if you look underneath outside (probably close to the city water fill)--you should see 3 white tubes extending down from the chasis.  Above those tubes (probably under the bed or possibly in the storage area) you should find valves.  One will be fresh water, one will be cold water, one will be hot water.  Usually the on on the farthest right is the fresh water drain.  I'm sure someone with a 2910 will tell you exactly where the drain is.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: bigbadjc on March 23, 2012, 10:08:54 pm
I know my 2551 has a plastic spigot on the outside of the body near the water tank fill inlet that is used to drain water out of the tank.  i'm not sure how much, if any, it drains the lines.  I have always been told that the most effective way of draining the tank and all the lines was simply to open all the spigots in the kitchen and bathroom sinks and flush the toilet repeatedly using the water pump until you drained all the fresh water into the black and gray water tanks and then dumped them.  You might then want to put another 10 gallons or so of fresh water into the tank and repeat the exercise, then refill with clean water.

Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: billy on March 23, 2012, 10:46:51 pm
In our 3100 there is an all water drain under the drawer by the kitchen sink.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: kevin on March 24, 2012, 05:19:22 am
Dick, Sorry, I keep forgetting that the Phoenix's all seem to have their own quirks.  Our tank drains the way Billy's does from a white spigot attached to the lower side of the tank & sticks out the wall, allowing most of the water to drain out & dribble down the outside of the Phoenix - hence my attaching a 3 foot piece of tube when draining.
Oh-and Stuart has pictures of most everything on each model on the gallery pages for the different models.  Maybe you can see the drain there.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: TomHanlon on March 24, 2012, 07:38:37 am
The best thing to do is to call the factory and ask them.

On our first PC, the 2350, it had the three drain lines in the passengers side outside compartment just above the drawer in the right hand wall. The current pictures of the 2910 show a cover in this position. Our current 2552 has the fresh water tank under the passengers side bed and the bed board has a cutout that allows me to reach in and open the valve. The hot and cold drains are under the kitchen sink on the floor. You have to remove the bottom drawer to get to them. Before you ask, to remove a drawer, any of the drawers, you pull the drawer open until it stops, then on each side, at the end of the slider, you will find a pointed plastic part that looks like an arrow. On the right side you push down on the plastic arrow, at the same time on the left you pull up on the arrow and gently pull the drawer forward. I find that I don't have to fully remove the drawer to reach in and turn the valves. I marked one side of the drawer with an arrow to help me remember which side goes which way. When done you just push the drawer back into the closed position.
Kermit told me that to speed up the draining of the fresh water tank, I should open the valve and turn on the water pump. I don't see how this will help on the new 2552 as the drain is separate from the line to the pump. One can always just pump the water into the gray tank via the sinks and then dump the gray, as has been suggested above.

On both of my PCs I found that the water was hardly coming out of the drain. So I took an air hose and put it up the drain hose and blew the line out. When they drill into the tank to put the hoses in sometimes a little of the tank plastic stays in the tank. This can then stop up the drain.

In 2011 Phoenix did put an outside spigot to drain the tank, but there where a lot of complains by the owners so they stopped doing this. I think they call this a running modification. They started late 2010 and and early 2012 I think.

While you have access under the sink, you might want to check the water heater bypass switches. The two outside lines should be open, valve lined up with the line, and the crossover line (bypass) should be closed, valve 90 degrees to the line.  When winterizing you reverse these to bypass the water heater and save on the RV antifreeze.

I hope this helps.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: JackD on March 24, 2012, 08:56:35 am
Tom --- love the term "running modification"!
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: dickreid1 on March 24, 2012, 01:52:48 pm
Thanks all,

None of the suggestions apply although they have caused me to become more familiar wirh the innards of the coach.  No drawers under the sink either even though I am famiar with how to remove them.

Earlier today we arrived at our campsite for our first trip.  We are using city water until we figure out the drain delemma in sanitizing the fresh water tank.

Dick in FL
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: lmichael on March 24, 2012, 05:30:53 pm
Dick, didn't you get a booklet from PC (should have been in the gray leatherette bag) that gave a summary/instructions of the features on your PC --and stated how to sanitize your fresh water system?  Mine shows where the drain valves are and gives the ratio of bleach to water, instructs to run the faucets until you get a bleach smell, how long to let it set in your tank/lines, to drain, refill and repeat until you no longer have the bleach smell.  Some people then add vinegar to neutralize any possible left over bleach.  Drain, refill and start using.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: Syd and Margo on March 25, 2012, 09:14:07 am
On my 3100 the tank drain is under the bed on the passenger side.  It's a stretch but I can reach valve from small opening for water pump under bed.  I took all screws out first time to see what was under there.  Hope this was helpful.  If not call the wizard Kermit for all answers.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: billy on March 25, 2012, 04:06:38 pm
Kevin, my spigot is no longer, dumb place to put it. when i returned to our park someone had put a rebar up and guess what, yup I no longer have a spigot on the side. Made a nice little round pice of black plastic and covered it up. Under the passenger I drill a hole, ran the drain pipe thru and installed a small plastic on/off valve.
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: dickreid1 on March 26, 2012, 01:12:32 pm

Yes, I have the booklet but the chlorination procedure is a generic write-up with no drawing or references to how to access the drain valve.

This morning (Mon.) I talked to Bobby at PC who confirmed my speculation about removing the mattress and prying up the cut-out at the back.  Removing screws was not necessary.  This gives access to the demand pump, a T-valve for winterization, and the drain valve. We have now have a clean tank. Presumably, there will an illustrated addition to the handbook that is specific for the 2910.

I also talked with Ed the electrician about the unusual cyclic high-current draw on the engine battery that I reported earlier.  My Battery Minder can only barely keep up to the demand even though I have rejuvenated the battery with desulfation and equalization.

Ed says there are only four things using the engine battery: outside mirrors, coach step, back-up camera and compass... not the slide-outs. When the step is out, the step controller pulls around 0.8 amps.  I can see this difference in the cyclic thing-a-majig because it causes a higher draw.  That leaves something in the Ford turning on and off.  Ed gave some ideas of how to track this down.  We shall see.


Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: ragoodsp on March 26, 2012, 02:38:39 pm
I believe there is a fifth draw off the Ford battery (you may not have this option) and that is the power front seat/seats, not sure how that could be drawing anything but they do operate without the iignition on.   good luck
Title: Re: Disinfecting potable water tank
Post by: dickreid1 on March 26, 2012, 07:59:14 pm

Yes, we have one power seat.  I just tried it.  Does not seem to pull enough affect the cyclic high current thing.