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Hutch42, I guess that is the answer then:  no more For Sale by Owners.

I find that interesting.   I would have thought that exposure for the product from previous owners would have been good for business.  I guess it is now seen by management/ownership as a form of competition.   


That's not the way I read it, it says it has to be requested via email.   That's pretty much how it's always been.

No postings of other stuff for sale and PC's for sale by owner only by following the email route.

I have 2011 2552 and my hand spray wand at the kitchen sink will only produce a very very slow trickle when pushing in the thump trigger. I took apart the sprayer and flushed and cleaned it and saw no or felt no obstructions from hard water cal. build up. When I push the trigger with a good water flow coming out of the facet the water stops and the slow trickle comes out of the hand sprayer. I turn off the facet and back on to get the normal flow of water out of the facet.I am thinking there is something causing a near blockage near the point of attachment of the sprayer hose. The sprayer hose is clear and easy to see any obstruction so I do not think its the hose. How does one get to the point of attachment as it is behind the sink I took a picture of where I think the blockage may be occurring.. your thoughts? 

I had a similar problem, took out the 3 drawers under the counter top and found the hose kinked where the weight is on it.   I moved the weight so it no longer kinked the hose and problem solved.

Notice it's only for the "body structure" which I find very interesting.   I wonder if they consider cabinets, countertops, windows, battery tray, plumbing lines (both fresh and waste) valves, flush lines, etc. and/or storage compartments part of the "body structure."

Likewise with their wiring.

General Discussion / Re: Hidden Generator Relay & Gen Problem
« on: May 20, 2019, 07:03:39 pm »
You must have a 4000W test load available and, if frequency is correct and voltage is not correct, the voltage regulator is defective.   See page 6-31, table 6-14.

General Discussion / Re: Hidden Generator Relay & Gen Problem
« on: May 19, 2019, 08:55:07 pm »
Never thought of an EMS since you show a 2011 model and an EMS isn't standard.

Does it take about 20 seconds from when the generator starts for the transfer switch to click on?   If it does, your generator should not put out that much voltage after it stabilizes.   Have the generator serviced.    If the transfer switch clicks pretty much as soon as you start the generator, then the transfer switch is no longer set for the delay (there is an internal setting to delay or not) or the switch no longer "honors" the setting or it's one of the switches that doesn't have such a setting and (your option obviously) should be replaced with a switch with a delay.


General Discussion / Re: Hidden Generator Relay & Gen Problem
« on: May 18, 2019, 09:56:38 am »
I presume you checked the output from the transfer switch.  There should be 2 input lines, one from shore power and one from generator.   The output of that switch is goes to the breaker box.  Since you get power from the generator TO the switch. And since the output FROM the switch is common to both.   The only thing that I believe can be the issue is the switch itself.   If the internal relay contacts are damaged, even though the switch clicks, the output isn't being switched.

I could certainly be wrong, but I had a similar issue in an earlier RV and had to replace the switch itself.


General Discussion / Re: Hidden Generator Relay & Gen Problem
« on: May 17, 2019, 11:28:45 pm »
There is a transfer switch fed by both generator and shore power.  On my 2015 2551,it is located behind the driver's seat, behind the carpeted piece on the panel that connects the cab to the wider RV sides.  There are 3 or 4 screws near the top of the carpeted area. They are hidden in the carpet tufting.  Remove the screws, pull the panel and you will find the transfer switch.  Ideally, whether plugged into shore power or not, 20 seconds after the generator starts, it will switch output to come from the generator.   If that transfer switch is defective the generator power won't get switched into use. 

A quick call to PC should have provided this information.

General Discussion / Re: Fresh Water Pump
« on: May 14, 2019, 07:36:11 pm »
Ok, so I opened the water heater bypass valves so that they are now in the operating positions. Turned the pump on and it ran until it filled the water heater but now when I turn on a faucet the pump won’t start up.

Make sure the aerators on the faucets are not gunked up.

Obviously your pump is working since it filled the hot water heater.  If nothing else, go outside, open the expansion over pressure valve on the water heater and water (or air or both) should come out and the water pump should come on.

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Entry Step
« on: May 12, 2019, 01:05:29 pm »
So what make and model step does PC use?  Seems to be a problem on Lippert "Kiwkee" steps.

It's a Lippert step.  The issue is with the door switch.  The normal door switch is sealed and magnetic.  PC door frames are steel (the vast majority of other RV doors are aluminum) , so the magnetic switch doesn't work.

While PC has tried to seal the switch from the outside, it's not always effective.

General Discussion / Re: K&N performance air intake
« on: May 11, 2019, 09:41:34 am »
And finally, Vegas to Visilia,  306 miles, 32.2 gallons. 9.5 mpg.

General Discussion / Re: K&N performance air intake
« on: May 09, 2019, 05:14:28 pm »
Hi Don and Patti

Beware of the butterflies! They came up from Mexico through California 3 weeks ago and were swarming across southeastern Utah last week. What a mess!! Fortunately our 2350 got the Red Rocks  spa treatment while we enjoyed the pool at the excellent Oasis rv resort in Vegas .

Ran into the butterflies between Mojave and Bakersfield today.  Messy little guys.

Filled my 2551 in Vegas.    From Richfield to Vegas on the odometer is 284 miles, tank took 28.5 gallons.   10mpg.

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Entry Step
« on: May 08, 2019, 08:28:17 pm »
That happens fairly often.  Especially in wet weather.  My "fix" is to push the actuator button an also turn it to "clean" it.    Also make sure the bolt on the door that pushes on the button (actuator) isn't misadjusted. 

General Discussion / Re: K&N performance air intake
« on: May 08, 2019, 05:26:21 pm »
1st part of my trip, Grand Junction (31 miles from the Utah border and on I-70) to Richfield Utah.   Odometer says 228 miles, took 30.6 gallons.  Lousy at 7.4mpg.  No a/c, speed by GPS was 68 and a cool, rainy day.   Headwinds much of the way.  A lot of up&down hills.  Started at 4600' at home, highest point was 7900 feet and then down to 5400' in Richfield.   

The K&N has been on my PC since April 2015.   A month and a few thousand miles after I bought the PC.

PC is a 2015 2551 with a 4.59 rear end.

I have had many instances of 10mpg with this vehicle, so I am going to chaulk this on up to the steep grades (although the downhills were the same steep grade) and the headwinds.   

Stopped for the night in Cedar City Utah.

Oh, forgot... Prior to the fill up, right before I left, I still had 15 gallons of "winter blend" in the tank from the beginning of March and did not add stabil to it.   So that 15 gallons was 2 months old.  Doubt that made a difference.,but who knows.

General Discussion / Re: K&N performance air intake
« on: May 07, 2019, 10:31:02 am »
Just the K&N  77-2570KTK, otherwise all oem. The difference is hard to believe. We had a stiff crosswind all the way to Moab too.
For anyone familiar with the route from Vegas to Moab here’s some calculations  from my gas receipts:

Hurricane UT to Moab UT 352 miles / 30.28 gal. = 11.624 mpg

Moab UT - Richfield UT 165 mi / 14.3 gal. = 11.538 mpg

Currently in Vegas , only 289 mi since topping off in Richfield. Will fill up again before leaving Nevada and update mpg for the last climb through 7700 ft driving west out of Utah.

Doing 67mph uphill in 3rd at 3200 rpm the scan gauge was showing 6.8 mpg. Before the transmission would typically downshift to  3rd at 2850 then to 2nd and struggle to hold 60mph at 3800 on steep grades. The outside temp was around 75. I was watching the water and transmission temps closely on the scangauge , both only increased 10 degrees on the long climbs.

I am going to do the opposite direction trip starting tommorow.    My 2551 is an E450 with a higher numerical rear end ratio than the E350.

I already have a K&N filter but just the filter, not the intake setup.   

With that, with the cc set at 68 and no serious head or tailwind... I average right about 10mpg.

I can get exact numbers for this trip.

General Discussion / Re: K&N performance air intake
« on: May 06, 2019, 01:47:23 pm »
Finally got to road test this on a 1600 mile trip through the mountains. It exceeded all expectations.

R/T from sea level to Moab UT via 15 to 70 to 191 with cc set at 67 achieved consistent 11.6 mpg calculated  at fill-ups, not just watching the scan gauge. The Ford V10 sings and pulls like  a freight train at 3200 rpm while maintaining 67mph on grades . We climbed  through 7700 and  6600 feet multiple times but  my 4 speed auto never dropped to 2nd gear and the ambient temperature was cool enough that I felt ok with letting the cc hold it at 67 in 3rd at 3200rpm. This completely changes the  driving characteristics by letting the engine rev another 500 rpm higher instead of downshifting again, and driving 160 miles on 1/4 tank is a very noticeable  15% improvement.

It really works !!

So summarize... Exactly what modifications did you do?

Chip upgrade/reprogram?  K&N?  Muffler replacement?  Intake modification?  Etc.

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