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Messages - Volkemon

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1
Speaking of fiberglass insulation in the transitions and the cap...
Was thinking about requesting that PC put some dynamat in those areas before the insulation goes in thinking those areas might add to noise in the cab.
I asked Barry about this and he kind of dismissed the idea as unnecessary and said the fiberglass did a good job on noise.
Would you guys agree?
I also asked about adding dynamat to the inside of the door skins and got the same answer. I have gotten excellent results using dynamat in passenger cars for sound deadening.
Made my Camry ride like an Avalon! Have a feeling if they won't do the doors at the factory that I will be doing it myself.

Might be worth considering while your transitions are open.

I agree that dynamat is not a necessary item to dampen fiberglass. it has no 'resonance' to dampen.

  Quick test to see if noise dampening material will help - pound on it with a closed fist. Slap it quicker and lighter also, you are trying to emulate road vibrations.  Does it have a dull thud? No dampening needed. Does it 'ring' or 'gong' at all? Or do the vibrations make something else 'buzz'? Dampen it.

Restoring my 2350, I found the noise(s) in the cab were all ceiling and top cabinet related. Only ONE of 8 screws were seated correctly attaching the cutaway roof to the cabinets - had a horrible noise sometimes right above the passenger head.  I upgraded the screws with carriage bolts... After firmly re-attaching the cabinets to the original roof, I am VERY pleased with the lack of noise on the highway. The 'creak-creak' it used to have going over rough terrain slowly is gone also.  heartshower

Doing the cockpit floor with dampening material made a big difference also. My coach is 'airplane' quiet on the road now.

2
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« on: Today at 05:00:19 am »
Thank you, CalCruiser!  I did see that website but was hoping for cheaper since I probably need to do all of them.  Lot less expensive than water damage though, I will look into a sample kit and quick fix to hold the one until I get the parts.

The window ''glazing' on the RV windows is a trim item, not a seal. The pulling away at the corners is unsightly, but doesn't let water in. At least not yet on my 2006...

Found another source for seals also,  http://www.parkin-acc.com/page53.html

I am also in line for the glazing. Going to paint the frames and dividers 'trim black' and use black glazing to update the look.


3
Yep, I think you are correct in it being a stealth Gray water trickle ie low volume dump tube. and I do think it could and would be easily blocked with debris. Someone also suggested it was put in in case there was vacuum or air lock in the system. I'm not sure I agree with this as the system is not in a sealed closed loop circuit thanks for the input.

It looks like 3/8 tubing, and thats what the OEM bypass was on my coach.   (WH)   Suppose the flow rate is slow enough the debris is not 'force-jammed' to block flow. But the trickle over hours and hours keeps up with use.

 I like the idea it presents, and will soon be exploring the drainage system..... Thanks!    :)(:   Seems like a cool modification.


4
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« on: April 24, 2019, 07:24:43 pm »
Quote from: CalCruiser
but now that I know itís just the awning housing warping under tension it doesnít really bother me anymore.

[rant]

       >(    PLEASE FIX IT.    >(   You share the highway with others, secure your 'load'. NO excuse>(
[/rant]


*
Yes indeed, there is a gutter. I overlooked it. They told me I would go blind...  roflol 

EDIT - The gutter/awning rail is not a proprietary item. Easy Peasy stock stuff.  (cheer)



The awning assembly SHOULD drop out of the awning rail. I examined the rail on my coach closely... and it shows trauma. Gap varies. That and the double screw holes ..... I think the awning I removed was #2.  (WH)

I had a section of awning rail, and it does lift off of the Fiamma awning. Here it is mocked up as mounted on the coach.



Here it is with the awning rotated 180* up. Maybe a tad more... but it released from the rail.




I bet if we had rotated my awning up, and slapped it down out of the rail....it would have fallen out. NOW I know...  (nod)

5
Looks like a boondocker gray water drain to me. Not a bad idea!

In the top pic, labeled "Valve off mas"  it sure looks like a valve off the gray water tank.. before the slide valve.  This may be up off the bottom to avoid solids clogging it. When in use, take the end of the hose off the 'storage nub' and allow to drain on the ground?

My original macerator had a gray water bypass on it, the replacement did not. Mine was like the pic below originally: Clear tube on the top of the pump is the bypass.



 Even that system still had an issue with appearances,  I have no problem dumping gray water, but the appearance of improper blackwater dumping will be a problem if people see the 'big hose' coming off dumping graywater. Even with the garden hose cover -



the appearance still could be an issue. I like the 'stealth' valve and small dump hose.  May do something similar when I have mine apart, and set it to drain somewhere behind the back tire...
   Many times we have water and power, but no sewer. Often we rent a port-o-let for our site, and the commode is only used late night/bad weather. So black water can stay tanked. But the long hot showers need a drain. LOVE my showers, especially with the extend-a-shower rod in there now. .




6
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« on: April 24, 2019, 08:19:28 am »
Hi Volkemon,

If I understand correctly....

To avoid disturbing the rain gutter and sealed roof, you instead slid the awning sideways out the rear.  If the rain gutter directly above it wasn't there, you would have room to pivot and lift the box awning off the aluminum mounts.

Nope!  Sounds like you read the instructions also.  roflol The original book on that awning, that came with the coach papers, had NOTHING in it that applied to my mounting.  >(   There are no other mounting plates, no screws in the bottom, etc.   The back of the awning box had a " J " shape that fit snugly into the factory awning rail. LOOKS like one could lift-and-rotate the piece out, but it does not allow for that.  I dont think there really is a gutter.. I must look again. Or maybe the water collects between the awning and rail. See? MORE PICTURES NEEDED.  (nod)



How heavy is your fully assembled awning? 
Guessing 60 pounds? Maybe a bit more. One man can move it around easily on the ground.

Could you have lightened the load by partially disassembling it?

I tried. The arms do NOT come off the body or the extending part without drilling out the rivits that hold the end covers. The inner arm mount has 2 allen heads, and the backer comes out, but there is no clearance to get the assembly out the front. I tried, thats why the arms are 'kittywampus' in the housing, and the extending part is shifted to the back. Easy fix should someone replace the fabric. The best option was to bungee the ass'y together to reduce bulk.


Whatever new awning you decide to get, I assume you will need to locate the aluminum studs to mount it firmly, likely using the existing holes.

Not likely. The existing awning mounted a box to the coach. The new one will mount only at the very ends, and right at the top. Old holes will be filled and finished before paint. The new awning will have the fabric slide into the same rail, then the side rails will anchor outside. Pilot holes carefully sized, and careful installation will be the foundation for a strong mount.

Ron Dittmer


Pictures will be posted for install also.   Just need to get an awning kit...SOON!!   (exactly)  Next festival is May 15. http://www.orangeblossomjamboree.com/  and I am in charge of audio and video documenting of the event.


Chatting with Calcruiser, we determined that his awning never got the end mounting bolts. Only the middle.  :beg  So when he rolled it up, the housing pulled away from the wall. Waiting to hear if more screws fixed the problem.

7
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« on: April 23, 2019, 06:19:39 pm »
Torn Awning.



Had to cut the rest of the awning to access screws



Fabric was bunched up on support. Center four mounting screws are visible here.



Both ends had three screws



Bungee cords are wrapped around the arms to hold things. Tried to lift the awning off, did not work.
It does slide freely back and forth in the awning rail.




So we slide it out the back. CAREFULLY.



The red circles show the old mounting holes. Green shows the new.



Its off!  Now to get a new one...


8
General Discussion / Re: Gray tank auto switch continues to blink
« on: April 23, 2019, 10:33:46 am »


I read some other forums and blogs and the sticking is apparently common and it helps to lubricate them periodically... Somehow. Some people drilled holes and put grease ports in... Yeah, not happening.

Any thoughts?

I would be right at home adding a grease fitting...any chance of a link to that post?

Mine appears to close, light stays off, but it leaks.  >(  I am GUESSING maybe the rubber gasket is shifted/torn/gone.   I did try the flood method to flush it, filled the black tank until I saw water in the commode. No improvement. For now I have an 'add on' valve at the end of the line to contain things.

I have to bring it in to work to dump the tanks to work on it. Grandson apparently used the bathroom a few times going home. He is still amazed at the ability to go to the bathroom while underway.    roflol   The only other thing Grandpa has (in a car) that fascinated him this much are the windows in my lil' truck.  Manual, crank up windows.  :cool  He is 8, and had never seen such a thing.  :-D 

9

About your comment on fiberglass insulation....Phoenix uses block foam insulation in the walls, floor, and ceiling including back in 2006, so you're already set with the best.


See the pics above, Ron. They used fiberglass between the transition pieces and the wallboard.

 My 2006 has fiberglass insulation there also, as seen when I looked down after taking out the shelf. I could only see down 6 inches or so without removing the panel.  I was hoping to run marker light wires down behind the wallboard to the bottom, but it looks like there are two horizontal wood braces that nix that idea. (Thats why I was so interested in pictures of that area)

RE: replacing fiberglass insulation above with foamboard.. I would not. Be a good 'squeak generator'  :lol I would put 1-3 inches of fiberglass back in, whatever seems to fit/replace original.  MOST times, foamboard is better than fiberglass fill. But thats for large, flat areas that can be glued down. The transition area we are referring to has irregular contours that suit fiberglass insulation very well.

I do love the foamboard, did the entire trailer interior with 2" foil faced. Glued down with PL300. GREAT stuff to work with.








 





10
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« on: April 22, 2019, 10:31:36 am »
Well, I think the awning rail/drip rail is factory from PC. Same thing on the other side, and looks like a critical piece to hold the roof skin on.

The awning itself, from a side view, LOOKS as if it would lift/rotate out and be removed. It would not do so for us, for whatever reason.  We had to slide it out the back, and carefully support it during those last few feet... my nephew up on a 12 foot ladder.   2o2

RE:screws-  when you extend the awning, you could see 3 screws on either end and 4 near the middle that went into the coach. Took those out, and broke the glue seal to release the unit to the 'sliding back and forth' state..  I had to cut the awning the rest of the way to extend the frame, as when I rolled it up to get home the material fouled in the roller and would not roll out.

Pictures coming!  I forgot to bring the camera in to work to post them.  (exactly) I am still impressed...negatively... that the factory manual mentioned nothing about the mounting I have. Pages and pages of non-applicable things in 6 languages.   roflol

11
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« on: April 22, 2019, 09:24:48 am »
Well now. The link I posted above for the Fiamma f45s was useless. BUT SO WAS THE ORIGINAL MANUAL.  pyho  Both of them do not show how the awning is mounted.

Pictures coming, but the awning is off and holes sealed. Looks as if there was 'history' here too... there was a second set of screw holes offset by ~1 inch or so that had marks around them that looked like they were ripped out.  :beg Then the awning replaced/remounted.


12
WHOA!   I had not seen this level of damage yet on a PC.









If this was built like most of them with 2x2 pine.....it would be a basket case.

Here you go Sarah!   Keep us posted as you go, you now have your own thread.  heartshower


Feel free to contaqct me on FB, here or email for any more assistance.

13
General Discussion / Re: Gray tank auto switch continues to blink
« on: April 22, 2019, 04:21:26 am »


Remember, the mixing of grey water into the black tank "MUST" be done in the order I described.  You do NOT want to open the black tank valve first to keep the nastiest stuff inside that tank.  Bad black in the grey tank is a bad thing when the grey tank backs up into the shower pan.  Get the idea?


I have to remove the valves to find out why the black valve does not shut completely. Multiple flushes did not cure it.  >(  Believe you me - You do NOT want black water in the grey tank. Many odors.  Not sure what happened, but the valve didnt close this last trip. No flashing light to indicate a problem!

14
General Discussion / Re: Removing/Replacing the DVD head unit.
« on: April 22, 2019, 04:16:43 am »
Our 2004 2350 has a Fisher component that has a DVD player, surround sound, AM/FM combo. Itís mounted in that very narrow slot under the cabinet to the right of the TV as most are in PCs. My question is, how is that unit fastened in that slot?  Iím planning to relocate the TV and it would be nice to upgrade to Blu-ray so I will have to remove the Fisher unit.

Thanks

My 2006 was fastened with velcro on the bottom.  Still dont have a replacement, we generally just use USB sticks into the TV.

15
General Discussion / Re: New flooring
« on: April 22, 2019, 04:15:05 am »
I have used the wood laminate flooring in a house last year. I don't think it is a good idea for an rv. Any water that gets in will make it swell and ripple. Vinyl laminate is the only way to go, it's water proof and easy to cut. You don't need a vapor barrier, it can be put directly over wood and each piece interlocks with the other. I will be doing this in my soon to pick up used 2006 2551. Scott

Ditto!  I have the vinyl in mine, only way to go. VERY happy with it so far, over a year now, just about bulletproof.  I am talking "65QT yeti cooler scrubbing dirt into the floor leaving no marks" bulletproof. Impressive.

https://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?topic=3016.   My thread.  Sorry about the late reply, busy weekend. Got the awning off!  (cheer)

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