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Messages - Volkemon

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Any suggestions?

Yeah... get a voltmeter.  roflol  So much info for so little $$.. Not even $25!!!

Checks your frige temp also...  2o2 and So much more!


How To measure voltage ( under 2 minutes ) -  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NJPUXC2frQ

If nothing else, I have been able to assist people when THEY had tools, but I did not. Even if you cant use them, others may be able to get you going with them.

I bought some sea foam has anyone tried that  for cleaning the injection system would that be something to try?

They do sell a lot of it, and I have had many people say they run it 'all the time' and have no fuel problems. I do not use it at all, and have no fuel problems.  (WH) Must work like elephant repelling powder..

""A man is sprinkling a powder all over the streets, when a policeman walks up to him and asks what on earth he is doing. The man replies saying keeping the elephants away of course! It's elephant repellent!
The officer replies, don't be absurd, there are no elephants here. The man replies saying then it must be working!"" 

I have used it several times in the past, and have yet to ever have the intake manifold cleaning procedure do anything noteworthy but to blanket the area in a fog.  That does make an impressive sight, however, and might be worth doing for the experience alone.  :lol


I got a P0191 code on my trip up to Canada. Itís a fuel pressure related code. Engine ran fine and fuel mileage was great.  I cleared the code with my Scanguage.  It seemed the code happened after restarting the engine. When I cleared the code the check engine light stayed off until I restarted the engine and after refueling. I replaced the fuel pump module last fall when I couldnít get the engine started at all and that solved that problem. Any ideas whatís causing it?  Could it be as simple as needing a new gas cap?

Not quite clear... is the timeline:

CEL with P0191 code, no driveability problems. Cleared code, code returned after restart. Engine had no-start condition, replaced fuel pump and solved no-start problem..... and the CEL?  I am gonna assume you still have the P0191 code lighting the CEL regularly.

Loose cap would give a P0465/P0467 or other EVAP leak code. This code (P0191) indicates there is "something wrong"  with the readings the fuel pressure sensor is reporting back to the ECM. By "something wrong" I mean the numbers that the ECM is 'seeing' are not within the limits that are expected.

It doesnt state WHAT the problem is, but indicates that other tests are needed. If a P0191 code keeps setting, one would check fuel pressure readings, especially when starting. Then in conjunction with the pressure gauge, observe the readings the sensor is sending to the ECM, preferably with both an active voltage reading on the sensor output and observing the value the ECM is displaying. If your scanguage displays the fuel pressure from the ECM then you can use a pressure gauge on the fuel rail to see if the readings agree. This could tell you if it is a sensor or low pressure on start triggering the CEL.

General Discussion / Re: Distribution Box AVS050HD
« on: June 14, 2019, 03:42:31 am »
I came to the same conclusion as MIKEH and disconnected the 12 volt power plug.
Don't need another drain in the batteries.
Thanks to all for your input!!

All things old become new again...


From 6 years ago almost to the day ( ok, within a week...still close).... same forum, same thread title, same item, same conclusion.   roflol Came up in google searches on the subject.

on site search led to this, might solve part of the mystery of why they have this outdated format on board....

All I can contribute is that my backup camera runs through a 'Riverpark AV Distribution Box' which is located in the cabinet above the passenger seat (Model AVS050HD).

   - Mike

link to above thread -  https://www.phoenixusarv.com/community/index.php?topic=2055.0

With no check engine light (CEL) , might be a little tough to find.

1) Try going to an auto parts chain store that reads codes and see if there are any pending codes in the P03XX  series, engine misfire detected. the 'xx' will be 00 for a random misfire, or 01 - 10 if it is a specific cylinder. (ie: code P0304 means a misfire on cylinder 4)  This can pinpoint an ignition issue, or help find a vacuum leak. (this P03XX series is OBD2 mandated, so any code reader can see it. Not like the factory diagnostic codes..  >( )

2) the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is after the air filter, and sometimes when a dirty one is removed particles get past and clog it. There is a simple spray that cleans it,(  https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Industries-05110-Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Cleaner-Wt-11-oz/39950006?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1122&adid=22222222227028232711&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=60525702969&wl4=pla-95221774089&wl5=9011833&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=101593696&wl11=online&wl12=39950006&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiN2RhIbk4gIVj56fCh2hEA6wEAQYASABEgKNTfD_BwE ) and that has solved rough idle issues before. Can help fuel mileage too. Might be a pending code in the P017X series if this is the case.

For some reason, Ford vehicles have had a history of MAF sensor problems caused by contamination. In some cases, dirt gets past a leaky air filter and fouls the sensor wire. In other cases, carbon varnish builds up on the sensor from fuel vapors backing up through the intake manifold. Either way, contamination makes the MAF sensor sluggish, and often sets a P0171 or P0174 lean code.

The fix is to clean the sensor element with aerosol electronics cleaner (CRC makes a good product for this). The MAF sensor is located inside the air filter housing on some applications (Windstar, for example) or between the air filter and throttle body. Spray the sensor element with electronics cleaner, let it soak for about 10 minutes, then repeat. DO NOT use any other type of cleaner as this may damage the sensor. Also, DO NOT touch, scrub or attempt to physically clean the sensor element as this too can ruin the sensor.""
source - https://www.aa1car.com/library/maf_sensors.htm

(When I clean them, I will give them 4-5 soak-wait-rinse  cycles with the spray. Do something else while you wait, or you will rush the process. May take 45 min to an hour total. I do this task thoroughly ONCE, as I do NOT like come-backs from customers. )

3) a slow acting IAC (Idle Air Controller) can also cause rough idle, but really requires a scan tool to properly diagnose. Or you can be a shadetree mechanic and just throw parts at it until something works.  :lol

My top 3 guesses.  :-D  In order. If no CEL or pending codes, I would look at cleaning the MAF, especially after the problem seemed to arrive after a dirty air filter change. 

Good Luck!

General Discussion / Re: Distribution Box AVS050HD
« on: June 12, 2019, 03:58:35 am »
There are two A/V cable pairs on the right (output) side of the box but NO A/V cables on the left (input) side???

They should come from the DVD/surround sound player over the passenger side if my memory is correct.  I won't be able to check until Sunday

Glad you have someone with a similar model to help.  2o2 Donc13!!!   (cheer)

In reference to your question here.. well, are there?!? You are looking at the unit, so I will assume that there is currently 2 outputs connected and no input connected.  :lol

Your original question asked where the two output cables from the distribution box went.
The Distribution box in my new 2552 has 2 output cables and NO input cable.
Where do they go and what do they do??

If you read the 'book' I put above, you will be somewhat familiar with what that box does, and how it should be connected. The answer to your original question is still 'The output cables probably go to where the TV should be/ is located' and 'they carry the input signal from one device to 2  TVs  '

If your question is "Where is my input cable?"  It looks like Donc13 is going to scope that out for you and get you located.  (exactly)

The more information you give the greater the possibility of help.  :)(: 

**** rereading things to be sure I didnt miss something...and I did.. you picked this coach up new about 90 days ago?  I would think this is an EXCELLENT question to be posing to the factory.. I was thinking a previous owner might have reconnected things, but it looks like you are Owner #1!

General Discussion / Re: Distribution Box AVS050HD
« on: June 11, 2019, 12:23:41 pm »
The Distribution box in my new 2552 has 2 output cables and NO input cable.
Where do they go and what do they do??

Coming out of the right hand side of this?

They will output the signal, amplified, that you feed into that distribution box.. The output wires SHOULD  end near where a TV mounts. This box will amplify and 'split' the signal to be used by more than one device at once. ie: watch one movie on two tv's.  It does not create any signal, so the input would be from a DVD player, Blu ray player or other TV tuner/ video player.   

Little outdated with the component video and audio, most devices now use HDMI.   If you are wanting to 'feed' it with a source that only has HDMI out, you will need one of these-


And when you find the other end of the cables, you will either need a TV with component input, or another converter. Been a few years since I used anything with component input/output, so not sure if TV's come with them standard..

Hope that helped!

We get stuck on the 'end of a cord' a few places, and here is a method to get the AC working without blowing a fuse -

1) turn the FAN ONLY on to high.

2) after it is running for a few seconds, QUICKLY turn the switch to low AC.

This has allowed us to run AC off a 20 amp breaker, 15A outlet with a ~50 foot 12Ga cord at the house. Trying to start both the fan and compressor at once blew the breaker each time. Using this method, we had the AC running for a few days in the driveway before the trip.

We do have the 13.5K AC, not the 15K. The extra size may make or break this method...dunno.

Frige would run on propane with it, but not 110v with the Air Conditioner. It would run for a while, but we would the breaker tripped sometime later.

As far as an extension cord overheating, if you are not using the entire length, uncoil it to allow it to radiate heat. A loose bundle on the ground may cool OK,  but I use the cord reels and have had a few 'wake up' calls when I saw how warm the cord got on there.  :beg

I now see that you are using your shore power cord with an adapter. So extension cord is HD enough, DEFINITELY check the adapter several times when you start using it. I have had a couple cheap ones that dont engage fully, and can roast the cord end.  >(

I finally made up a proper 30A service for the house, but the above method would run the AC for a few days while Mrs V got the coach ready for the trip.

General Discussion / Re: Touch up paint?
« on: June 10, 2019, 05:19:52 am »
Is touch up paint supplied by the factory when you buy a new unit?  If so, I guess I need to contact Carol, 'cause I didn't get any.


Be sure to get the paint codes and brand!  Might be very useful, and usually easier to get while things are fresh. Even after the small touchup can is lost or gone bad, most paint shops can mix a spray can of the correct color for repairs. Either base coat that needs to be cleared, or in single stage that requires no topcoat.  (cheer)

Update. I think I have finally reached the correct dip stick reading. after almost 6 quarts in. Now I have to do some research on what damage could have been done to my transmission with only 5 or so quarts in the tranny when picked up my rig at the Westlie Ford Super Duty Service Center in Minot ND. As I understand it the correct amount in the tranny is 11-12 quarts. so I was 5 or 6 quarts low when I picked it up. I have been slowly adding so I do not over fill due to the fact I did not know how much was really in the tranny to begin with. I would go here. very poor work

Where did you source the 11-12 quarts capacity? For a 5R110W transmission (which I think you have...open for correction...) I am finding a TOTAL capacity of 17-19 qts for a total refill after rebuild/hotflush  and 8 qts from a pan drop refill. 

IMO, if the fluid is clean, you are OK. Heat is the most critical factor, and the color of the fluid is a good 'tattletale'.  Not sure how one would 'research' what else went wrong inside without a teardown.  Fortunately you have a 'dirt common' tranny, and not hard to find replacements. So the 'worst case' scenario isnt all that bad, although not pleasant either!!!

I am with HenryJ on this one also - CHECK YOUR LEVELS after someone has been working on your rigs powertrain. I do think that your caution to avoid overfilling was good, but the way you went about it I would not advise anyone to follow. Driving the rig AT ALL when the fluid doesnt show on the stick does not strike me as a good idea. Far from. I would be easily convinced driving over a thousand miles with low fluid could be more damaging than the initial under fill.  :beg  Chalk this one up to tuition towards your degree at 'The School of Hard Knocks' and carry on.  :)(:

General Discussion / Re: Roof Air Conditioner
« on: June 06, 2019, 03:43:09 am »
Volk.  even if I could go to sleep over the tin can full of ball bearings running if my better half is miserable as well, itís a rough journey.

Sir, there you have it. Happy spouse happy house.  Were it not for the ladies that put up with us we would still be in caves.  (exactly)

@TNcanuk -  I have yet to have to work on my water heater....so no guidance there.  (WH)

If the fluid is clean, I wouldnt worry. But it is a wakeup call for those who trust the 'professionals' to do a good job.

General Discussion / Re: Roof Air Conditioner
« on: June 04, 2019, 10:36:50 am »
Volkman.... yes, but is that every night for months on the road. Itís been a month so far and another 6 to 9 weeks to go.

You are talking to someone who used to barrack next to the runway at Pease AFB as flightline security... KC135 's and FB111's will rock you to sleep there*, at uneven intervals. ...   The drone of my AC hardly is a bother.  roflol   I do understand that once it does get 'under your skin' it can be unbearable. Good Luck!  :)(:

Wonder if TNcanuk got inside his AC yet to ensure condensate is draining. Be quite the eye opener if it was disappearing into the coach...

*OK, was refreshing my memory of 'zactly what flew out of there back in '87, and found it was closed and turned into Air NAt'l Guard a couple years after I left.   :beg  Dont know what they fly out of there now.

General Discussion / Re: Roof Air Conditioner
« on: June 04, 2019, 03:54:46 am »

To be honest, if I canít find a better option regarding the ac noise Iím going to have to get rid of this unit for one with a basement ac or ducted or quit the rv travel all together. How a person can sleep with these noisy rattle trap ac units us beyond me. I really want to hear one of the advanced rv units before pulling the trigger but Iíve had my fill of the noise.

One mans trash...

At the last festival we were parked with the 'younger family' aka 'party all night' crowd. We were so happy to have the white noise generator on (that loud AC  :lol ) to allow us to sleep in all the din.


They are having known problems with the flush machine refilling vehicles.  And they dont do a check of the dipstick before letting the vehicle out of the bay.  :beg  I am so fortunate not to have to go to other shops.

I drove the rig about 100 miles and checked the Tranmission dip stick and did not see any fluid on the sick, So I added about 1/4 a quart of Tranmission fluid, I repeated this action every 100 miles until I was 3 full quarts added and still did not any fluid on the dip stick.

Out of curiosity, why are you running it so long between small additions of fluid instead of just filling it once? Just me, but I would not be running the rig down the road AT ALL until I knew the fluid was correct. Or close even... but not touching the stick?!?!? You are braver than I am.

You may want to be careful what you say to this dealer in case the tranny does have problems. The fact that you drove it several hundred miles without the dipstick showing correct level, and did so knowingly, may not reflect well in a court proceeding. (Adding a 1/4 quart every 100 miles, and adding 3 quarts total = drove it 1200 miles not even touching the stick?!?!)

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