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Messages - keelhauler

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1
General Discussion / Re: Auxiliary Refridge Fan
« on: January 17, 2019, 10:34:06 am »
The problem is not inside the refer it is the fins in the back that need the air circulation to cool better.

2
General Discussion / Re: E450 Battery Red Light On - No Start
« on: January 12, 2019, 11:02:15 am »
The only time I turn on the switch is in storage so my solar power charges all batteries, stays on for months, and for short time when I want to boost the Ford battery because on non-use, parked for a long time, and Ford battery is dropping below 12.3 volts.

If you have solar no need for trickle charger.

3
General Discussion / Re: Iím cold!
« on: January 12, 2019, 10:56:13 am »
Quote
My furnace blower stays on, but the flame turns on an off intermittently.  Is it safe to use?   Yes - I have propane - just had it filled.  Feels like it has something stuck or maybe the thermostat has a problem. 

Are you sure you have your thermostat set to Auto?

You can use 1500 watt electric heaters on a 30 amp RV without a problem. My small heater has a 500 W setting which I use if I plan to use the microwave.
A big user of power is your electric water heater. You could turn that off and use propane if you want to run 2 electric heaters without a problem.

4
General Discussion / Re: Auxiliary Refridge Fan
« on: January 11, 2019, 09:01:47 am »
Ron, All the models with refer in the slide-out have fans built in.

The models that vent through roof, do not have fans but as Doneworking says, can benefit by a small inexpensive fan. My old 2551 would not work well without an extra fan.

5
General Discussion / Re: E450 Battery Red Light On - No Start
« on: January 10, 2019, 11:02:34 am »
I'm not sure if PC made any changes over the years on how the dashboard charge switch is configured.
In my 2006 model it was an on-off switch and when in storage with my solar arrays working I left it on to also charge my Ford battery.

In my 2012 PC, it was a momentary rocker switch. I replaced it with an identical sized on-off switch. A easy change, slip wires off old one and install on new switch. So it works the same way as the 2006. Is it any different on models from 2013 to 2018? maybe someone else can answer.

However I did notice two quirks:  The step goes in even if door switch was turned on, the awning switch is disabled.
But it charges the Ford battery fine, I leave switch on months at a time when in storage.
I also use a Bogart TM 2025 monitor for my solar arrays, it has a readout position to monitor the Ford battery. If I'm at a campsite for a few weeks without running the engine, I can observe the voltage on the Ford battery decreasing, I just flip on the switch and it quickly recharges my battery. Of course the step goes in but goes out OK when door is opened.

6
General Discussion / Re: Door latch HELP please
« on: January 05, 2019, 07:56:09 am »
Quote
PS - we are in Stuart at the COE Campground if you are in the area stop by.
We won't be that far south until 2/7 at W.P. Franklin. Right now for next two weeks we will be at Lithia Springs near Tampa.

Phoenix was closed so I ordered the new door latch off E-bay from RV & Auto Parts  in CA.
I got the latch yesterday. 2 days from CA & free shipping, $92.75. It is much heavier than original.

The problem with installing it is that the dead bolt mechanism takes more room on the opposite side of the latch. You need to put a slot in the 1" aluminum channel, 1/4" x 1" to accommodate it. A Dremel tool could do it easily. I used a drill and a file. Took a while, then a fellow camper saw me and came over with his Dremel and helped me finish the job. It went together OK. I did not have to change the slotted plate on door jamb.

7
General Discussion / Re: Door latch HELP please
« on: January 01, 2019, 10:13:55 am »
My door latch just broke today.
I read some posts that indicate that this trimark latch has a pot metal plunger that breaks. Mine was stuck in place so the door would not open.
I was able to push it in with a screw driver from the inside and when door opened out poed the latch & sprint.

It's new years day (Happy New Year), so I will call Carol tomorrow.
From what I read the old Trimark Latch was a  060-0650 which is still for sale on Amazon with same pot metal plunger.
I think the new design is the 060-1650  has been upgraded with a steel plunger for better security and long life, maybe someone can confirm.
I see Amazon sells this https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-Collection-T507-Entrance/dp/B00EOTE8BA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 for $104 including shipping. or $92.75 on ebay. Neither say who makes it.

8
General Discussion / Re: Step lube
« on: December 13, 2018, 09:03:51 am »
I use Tri-Flow on my steps and on my bikes.

9
General Discussion / Re: Running generator w/o cia C&C h batteries
« on: December 10, 2018, 11:27:02 am »
I agree with Ron. I would leave batteries in place and just take the ground (Black) cable off when you are done.

10
General Discussion / Re: Running generator w/o cia C&C h batteries
« on: December 09, 2018, 06:15:23 pm »
If you run the truck you will have 12v going to generator. The question the wires are not very big and may not be able to supply the amps you need to start, but it may.

If it starts you will have 110v anywhere you want to use it, microwave or A/C are biggest loads.

If you don't want 12v to the converter just turn main power disconnect at the door off. The converter will still supply 12v DC to all DC fuses.

11
General Discussion / Re: Black Valve
« on: December 07, 2018, 03:41:11 pm »
Quote
If I remove the actuator, do the wires just unplug or do you have to cut them?

Unfortunately you have to cut them since they used shrink tube around the connection, but should not be hard to rewire, if hooking back up. 4 wires all different colors.

12
General Discussion / Re: Black Valve
« on: December 07, 2018, 08:40:06 am »
If the actuator fails you do not have to buy a manual valve.

There are two screws that hold the actuator in place. Just remove and work the valve manually.

I just had a failure and had to remove the actuator,

The reason for the failed was my manual valve is working very hard. My PC is 6 years old. In order to clean and lubricate I will have to remove the macerator and spray a silicone lubricant into the valve as I move it open and closed. I haven't tried this yet.

Right now I have to reach underneath to open the manual valve which takes a big hard pull.

I won't try to replace the actuator until I get the valve working freely.

If the light doesn't come on, it means the actuator did not reach the end of its travel.

When mine broke, it sounded like it was working but never moved.

There is a plastic gear in the actuator that broke in half, so it was not attempting to move at all.

13
General Discussion / Re: Potential Four Down Vehicles
« on: December 03, 2018, 02:18:09 pm »

14
General Discussion / Re: Saga of all our Equipment Failures
« on: November 30, 2018, 08:34:30 am »
Quote
I live in Brooksville,

A week from now we will be a few miles from you at Silver Lake (Cypress Glen Campground) for 10 days.
We love it and paddle our canoe on the Withlacoochee and bike with our Tandem on the 46 mi long state trail.

15
General Discussion / Re: Saga of all our Equipment Failures
« on: November 29, 2018, 08:20:12 am »
Quote
Hope we see you in Florida again this winter.
Barry & Sue

We will be at WP Franklin again this year from 2/7 to 2/20, I heard Fred & Joan (Fandj) will be there at the same time.

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