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Messages - keelhauler

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General Discussion / Re: Refrigerator Drain tube and collection tray
« on: June 18, 2019, 06:57:36 am »
The small plug prevents bugs.
I added another tube and run it out the holes in the side cover. I didn't like the water overflowing into the cabinet. Looks bad but works fine.

General Discussion / Re: Roof Air Conditioner
« on: June 02, 2019, 11:09:14 am »
If it's cooling. its working.

General Discussion / Re: Electrical problem
« on: May 27, 2019, 06:56:57 am »
I believe those outlets go through a GFI outlet in the bath. Check that, hit test and reset. Measure voltage in and out if that didn't fix it. Note a loose connection could be the cause of voltage drop and could be a fire hazard.

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Entry Step
« on: May 11, 2019, 07:36:09 am »
I stuck one of the pads on the plunger and the problem was fixed. More red neck engineering.  I'll have it adjusted during my factory visit. 

All you did is move the internal slider to a cleaner area for a better connection. It does not need this or an adjustment.

The problem is internal corrosion on the barrel switch. It cleans up when you rotate the switch barrel until it feels smoother. This is not twisting any wires. The slider is just moving to a less corrosive position and it is removing some corrosion when rotated.

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Entry Step
« on: May 10, 2019, 01:10:33 pm »
Captain Al
Adjusting the plunger moves the contact surface to a cleaner area but is only a temporary solution.  Eventually the corrosion will move to the 'clean' area of the contacts.

Not true, When you rotate the barrel the switch does not turn, just the barrel. And the contactor slides and cleans the corrosion on inside of the switch.

On my 2006PC, I put in a new commercial grade sealed push button and it worked great for years with no problem. But on my 2012PC, this was easier, I just keep turning the switch barrel and it cleans it up for about 3 months.

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Entry Step
« on: May 09, 2019, 11:38:22 am »
The problem 99% of the time is not adjustment.
It is switch corrosion. About once a month I need to just grasp the switch and spin it around. Feels rough at first and then smooths out.

I took one of these switches apart and it is just a hollow barrel and a little slider that slides inside. Corrosion makes it irattic, keep it clean and it will never open on its own.

I don't see need for shield on batteries.
My wife did not like the sunken stove in our 2006PC so we had it installed on top in our 2012PC.

Tom you say
I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.

Did you mean 14.8, which is what Trojan recommends when battery is not fully charged. 13.2 volts is the float charge.

General Discussion / Re: Adding a Third Solar Panel
« on: May 01, 2019, 06:57:32 am »
There is a lot of good to bad info out there, and answers on this forum are opinions often and not fact.

So to start with why not get a little more information. Start with this 2 part article: http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
There is a lot of info here, some is still not absolutely correct. In fact many solar panel sales companies may have bad info.

Handy Bob's Charging puzzle is another good article: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/

Here is an article about shading and angle: https://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/Download%20folder/solar-panels.pdf

There are many discussion about this subject but not as much as monitoring how your batteries are doing. I love this product by Bogart(TM-2030-RV) that lets you know exactly what is going on with your batteries. http://www.bogartengineering.com/products/trimetrics.html

So for those who want answers and don't want to read much. Solar panels provide about 17.5 volts to push the watts to your 12.7 volt batteries. The smaller and longer the cables the cables  the voltage could drop low enough to provide no push. But if you keep putting too much current you will boil or ruin the batteries. So that is what a charge controller is for, it provides the batteries the voltage the batteries want depending on their state of charge.

General Discussion / Re: Adding a Third Solar Panel
« on: April 30, 2019, 02:51:31 pm »
I agree with donewprking,, a good way to go to ensure at least one panel will see the sun.
Use #10 wire wire.

General Discussion / Re: Adding a Third Solar Panel
« on: April 29, 2019, 12:37:37 pm »
Make sure when you mount it it doesn't get any shadows from antenna, A/C or vents. Small shadow, no power. Just run + to + and - to -, The arrays are three batteries in parallel. You can connect on roof to the other panels.

General Discussion / Re: Annual Oil change and grease
« on: April 29, 2019, 12:32:47 pm »
I think there are 4-5 fittings, all easy to reach on steering linkage. My also has a fitting on the first driveshaft yoke.
Grease gun with tubes of grease are inexpensive and a simple job to do as long as you are under there changing the oil.

General Discussion / Re: Main Power Panel
« on: April 29, 2019, 12:28:37 pm »
I had a 2006 PC with a single batter & tray. I was able to remove the tray and set up a table on the outside with some 2 x 6 boards on top  to get boards to the  bottom of the opening. I made the cables long enough to connect batteries on the table and slide them in the opening carefully so the terminals didn't touch the frame.

These were flooded batteries and it was a pain sliding them out to check the water.

General Discussion / Re: Gray tank auto switch continues to blink
« on: April 22, 2019, 07:56:48 am »
If the valve is really sticky, the round plastic gear inside the actuator motor assembly will break in half. Then the actuator will not move the valve at all but may indicate that it is open or closed.

Remove the actuator, try valve manually to see if it is very hard to move.
Try the actuator to see if it moves at all while stilled wired in but not connected/
If not:
You will have to disconnect the 4 wires going to the actuator
Then, pry open the actuator so you can see the little gear that moves the lever back & forth. See if it broken.
I'm not sure if you can buy just this gear, you can buy the whole actuator.
You may be able to SuperGlue the gear back together but don't reinstall until you get this valve free and working again.

Let us know what you find and did to fix.

General Discussion / Re: Gray tank auto switch continues to blink
« on: April 20, 2019, 11:13:27 am »
Our experience has been about 3 days before needing to dump the gray tank. At only 23 gallons, thatís the limiting factor. We have not had an issue with fresh water or black tank capacity.
That is my experience with our 2552 also, 3-4 days
We take NO showers inside and try to use as little water doing dishes as we can. I carry a 50' - 3/4" hose and use macerator to dump the grey tank if we can reach a good place to dump. We also dump the grey into the black tank when we can't dump.

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