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General Discussion / Re: Leveling Jacks pro & con
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on Today at 08:07:48 am »
What about the rear wheels off the ground?  I've had that a few times.   Doesn't seem to hurt anything.   Makes it easy to change a tire!   heartshower (cheer) (cheer)

Bad plan on a slope. We did that and the rig rolled forward off the jacks. Luckily I was to the side and it didn't hit me or our car as it jumps several feet before slamming down and stopping when those back tires/brakes hit the ground and stop the forward momentum. The jacks were fine as they are designed to kick back if you have to drive forward off of them. It was a scary lesson learned and while I'd like to say we never did it again, I'd be lying. Our second time beat it into our heads a little better and I remind John all the time when he gets into over leveling mode (front up, back up, right up, front up, left up, back up...). Bottom line, some of those tires should be on the ground!

Now for backing up on the jacks. Another bad plan. Yep, we did that too. John forgot the jacks were down, didn't see the red light telling him the jacks were down, and backed her up. We snapped a cable on one of the jacks and it wouldn't deploy anymore. Doug fixed it last time we visited the factory. He told us we could have manually pulled the jack part way down and it would have worked. The cables keep it from retracting too far up. The jacks need to be angled down a bit for the system to swing them the rest of the way to vertical.

Another lesson learned. We are (somewhat) happy to be the guinea pigs in these user error experiments so you can learn from our mistakes. Hopefully you're quicker to learn than we are.
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General Discussion / Re: WInterizing/AC Heat Strip
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on Today at 07:51:47 am »
We went years without using the low point drains because turning them did nothing. A friend mentioned one of his broke and he ordered a pack online. When he gave me some of his spares to replace my "bad" valves he showed me how they PULL UP to open and drain. Huh. My original valves work fine now that I know how to open them. No turning involved.

Our low point drains are under the kitchen cabinet drawer. There is an "H" configuration with the low point drains at the feet of the H - they angle down and exit the rig through the floor. Pull up on the plastic handles to open.

The hot water bypass is the oval silver valve handle on the cross bar of the H. Turn so the wide side aligns with the water line to have it open. Turn the wide side across the pipe to close.

As stated above, the hot water tank itself is drained from outside the rig. We use the onboard water pump to blow out the lines as described in the manual for the pump.
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General Discussion / Re: Anyone using Ready Brute Elite tow/brake system?
« Last post by biglegmax on September 20, 2019, 10:10:33 pm »
Hank, since our CRV is a 2012 also, just curious what base plate you went with? I'm considering the Blue Ox.
I can't see really any draw backs to the system, a little crude maybe, but simple. I understand cables, some of this electronic excess drives me nuts.
Thanks for both of your input.
Doug
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General Discussion / Re: Anyone using Ready Brute Elite tow/brake system?
« Last post by sailors35 on September 20, 2019, 05:53:02 pm »
Have been using for 3 seasons.  Simple straight forward.  When get in toad just start and go for lunch.
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General Discussion / Re: WInterizing/AC Heat Strip
« Last post by swiftboot on September 20, 2019, 09:47:19 am »
I am not sure how to edit preceding post ergo this info.  I did locate a video by Phoenix cruiser for winterizing.  Just search for "how to video" for Phoenix cruiser winterizing....Earl explains it much better than I did. (exactly)
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General Discussion / Re: WInterizing/AC Heat Strip
« Last post by swiftboot on September 20, 2019, 09:31:45 am »
Welcome to forum.  My hot water heater is under the sink so this may not apply to your setup.  To winterize, turn the silver handles perpendicular on the lines to and from water heater and align the third silver handle with the water line to accomplish the bypass.  To drain the h/w heater you must remove the plug itself accessing it from outside panel (small channel locks are helpful), stand back because the water will flow out.  My fresh water drains are located just forward of and inside the passenger side rear storage area.  When winterizing, do not forget the outside shower as well as the mascerator pump and hose.  I had a thumb drive with videos of the procedure and you may be able to access those videos on line.

Larry
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General Discussion / WInterizing/AC Heat Strip
« Last post by custerhank on September 20, 2019, 08:22:50 am »
  I posted this along with our "introduction" but thought more viewers would see it here. We are new owners of a 2017 PC 2910D.

1. I need to winterize. Water drain valves - I found them under the bedroom vanity behind the access door. We have rv'd since 1971 but this time I cannot read which silver handles do what (are they really labeled?). I am assuming a water heater bypass, a water heater drain and a fresh water drain. But I turn them and nothing happens..nothing drains. Can someone tell me which is which and why at least one or two is not draining the water? The owners manual does not explain.

2. This PC has the standard 13,500 AC, supposedly with a heat strip. But the thermostat only shows AC and furnace. I called PC Service a couple days ago but their tech has been outy and nobody else can help. The AC manual suggests it might be a dip switch problem but I do not even know where they are..inside or up top.

Hank
2017 PC 2910D Prod #3396
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General Discussion / Re: Anyone using Ready Brute Elite tow/brake system?
« Last post by custerhank on September 20, 2019, 08:19:58 am »
 We have used one since 2003 on 3 MH's - the most recent the 2017 PC we just bought last week. We got it because it incorporates a cable-activated brake into the tow bar resulting in less expense and no brake "box" on the front seat. We have the 1st generation" version. The only downside is it is fairly heavy. You should check with the factory on weight of the current version. It is also not as easy to manipulate the clevis's/bars (I believe) as the lighter Blue Ox etc. But it is a great product and certaibnly cost-effective. The base plate install on our latest car (2012 Honda) was much cheaper than many I have seen priced.

Check with the factory if weight is a factor and also to find an installer - NSA Products in Iola Kansas.

Hank
2017 PC 2910D
2012 HOnda CRV Toad
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General Discussion / Anyone using Ready Brute Elite tow/brake system?
« Last post by biglegmax on September 19, 2019, 10:55:47 pm »
We just picked up an older CRV, not really sure I want to tow yet, but thought I would like the option. This system appears to be less invasive, and cheaper.
Any thoughts?
Doug
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General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself!
« Last post by custerhank on September 19, 2019, 10:32:21 pm »
  We are Hank and Joyce Whitney from Custer SD (The Black Hills, 15 miles south of Mt Rushmore). We purchased a 2017 2910D on Sept 10th in Texas and drove it home 1,000 miles. We have downsized from a 42' diesel pusher we full-timed in for 6 years and had a total of 15 years. We are already enjoying the "smaller" lifestyle and the PC tows our 2012 Honda CRV very easily. We have 2 quick questions and then I will revert to the "regular" Forum for any others.

1. I need to winterize. Water drain valves - I found them under the bedroom vanity behind the access door. We have rv'd since 1971 but this time I cannot read which silver handles do what (are they really labeled?). I am assuming a water heater bypass, a water heater drain and a fresh water drain. But I turn them and nothing happens..nothing drains. Can someone tell me which is which and why at least one or two is not draining the water? The owners manual does not explain.

2. This PC has the standard 13,500 AC, supposedly with a heat strip. But the thermostat only shows AC and furnace. I called PC Service a couple days ago but their tech has been outy and nobody else can help. The AC manual suggests it might be a dip switch problem but I do not even know where they are..inside or up top.

Thanks,

Hank Whitney
2017 2910D Prod #3396
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