Hello Guest

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
General Discussion / Re: Gray tank auto switch continues to blink
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on Today at 08:16:34 am »
Our black valve is sticking.
Talked to an RV repair shop yesterday. He said sticking valves is common if using liquid tank chemicals because many contain formaldehyde and it destroys the seals. We use the blue Walex pouches which he said are the best and he never heard of valve problems with them.

He also said the problem is usually swelling of the two "O" rings that flank the opening in the valve blade. He said once they swell you have to replace the valve. Being really bad at home repairs, we're paying the man to put a new valve in on Monday. John is tired of crawling under the rig to dump.
2
General Discussion / Re: Replacement of Fiamma 45i awning
« Last post by Volkemon on Today at 07:56:51 am »
I dread the day I have to replace our awning material.  12 years so far and still good.  But we don't use our awning much so it remains fairly well preserved.

Ron, the way you maintain that coach, my money is the awning fabric outlasting you.  (exactly)


 I bet with the awning on the ground it isnt that bad a job. Anyone that wishes to live the adventure can have my awning...    :-D  I wish it was ~10 foot so I could use it on the carrier.
3
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by Volkemon on Today at 07:51:47 am »
CORRECTION!!!

I sorta had a memory of a RED tube... but knew it was 5200...?!? So i dug out the receipt. It was 5200 FAST CURE. Mrs V got it for the posted $18.99 a tube when she noticed the exceptional value. We were nearing the end of the windshield repair, and things were hectic.

So, I still would be comfortable using a hose on the regular after 48 hrs. I probably could have gotten it off the gun if it had been 'regular' 5200, which I normally use.

We now return to the thread...







, I just am not 100% my seals are cured completely.  I've read that to be 100% it can be up to a month.  So I thought no need to test it to that degree at this time.

I read you used 3M 5200 GREAT stuff.

  I get mine at West Marine. Couple bucks more, but always a fresh manufacture date. I used it between the cap and top of the windshield.

The '100% Cure' refers to the condition where the sealant has completely hardened to the center of the thickest recommended application, and under the waterline. Exposed to air, I would direct a pressure spray at it in 48 hrs with no hesitation. Stuff is incredible.

I had a tube plunger fail while using it in my power caulk gun. My normal MO for this is to extend the rod, allow the sealant to cure to a skin, then peel off/ wire brush etc.



Not 5200. Overnight it firmed an armor that I am not gonna spend a week chipping off. I just tried to scrape that smear by the trigger off - HE** No. Its parts for the new one now.  :lol
4
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by PeaceBeTheJourneyCruiser on April 25, 2019, 02:33:20 pm »
Yep in the panhandle I just get hit a little sooner than you.  I lived near the Space Coast for six months before coming here.  Now we're headed to Oklahoma on Saturday, building more of a nest egg to finish the RV and hit the road full-time.  😍

You're correct on the hose, I just am not 100% my seals are cured completely.  I've read that to be 100% it can be up to a month.  So I thought no need to test it to that degree at this time.  Rain will show anything major that needs to be done, hopefully.  Will save up and do all the windows next time when I have ordered all the right parts.  Worse case scenario I'll just caulk it tomorrow if it still leaking with the storm tonight.

Our marker light did leak on that side but replaced all of them with new Led ones.  Not as cool as yours, saw that thread after the fact.  😂.
5
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by Volkemon on April 25, 2019, 01:36:51 pm »
Yeah, I am looking at the storm to hit us tomorrow night. Rain is free and handy, but a hose can definitely pinpoint water leaks faster.. just remember to start low, and work your way up to the leak.  ;)  Soaking it from the roof down will quickly show a leak, but may make it difficult to pinpoint, especially with multiple leaks.

The dealer I bought the coach from were convinced the upper marker lights were leaking, and had even replaced one. They were leak free...it was the windshield area. They had a shower head on a pole that they would start soaking at the top for inspection.....every time.  :lol

6
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by PeaceBeTheJourneyCruiser on April 25, 2019, 01:20:56 pm »
Sorry, I was further inspecting the problem and documenting.  It's leaking but it could've possibly come from the door latches that we've repaired since the last storm.  We're about to get hit with another one in a few hours, that will tell me more.  As you can see regardless it definitely needs to be replaced and that butyl sealant isn't holding up either.

It could've been the door latches but the water is going down the door inside, can see where the wallpaper is buckling at the bottom.  It comes out thru the screw and puddles at the bottom of the door there.  Obviously not the worse water damage we've encountered but trying to figure it out.  I'm sure this storm will let us know, lol.  😜
7
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by Volkemon on April 25, 2019, 12:50:30 pm »
I have the same issue, I am 99% sure they are a trim item and not a sealing item.  I can direct a stream of water at my windows and no leak, even with gaping holes at the corners.

I know the fixed window in the entrance door uses a black sealant (butyl strip?) that seals the window to the frame, the trim does not keep water out of the coach. The sliders....I would like to take a closer look before being 100%.  ;)

Are your windows leaking now? That might answer the question quickly.  :lol
8
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by PeaceBeTheJourneyCruiser on April 25, 2019, 10:26:48 am »
Volkemon, thank you for the additional site.  I think the main problem is a seal, the hubs saw a YouTube video and said it was the glaze.  Attaching pic of the problem..

We're down to the last two days we can work on it, have to go to Oklahoma for a job for a few months.  So we're just trying to get it sealed as much as possible.  We luckily got the major water damage taken care of and will try to store it indoors until we get back.  Maybe an RV store in town will have something temporary seal wise until we get back.

Thanks again, definitely think black is the way to go when redoing it.   That's going to look great!
9
Speaking of fiberglass insulation in the transitions and the cap...
Was thinking about requesting that PC put some dynamat in those areas before the insulation goes in thinking those areas might add to noise in the cab.
I asked Barry about this and he kind of dismissed the idea as unnecessary and said the fiberglass did a good job on noise.
Would you guys agree?
I also asked about adding dynamat to the inside of the door skins and got the same answer. I have gotten excellent results using dynamat in passenger cars for sound deadening.
Made my Camry ride like an Avalon! Have a feeling if they won't do the doors at the factory that I will be doing it myself.

Might be worth considering while your transitions are open.

I agree that dynamat is not a necessary item to dampen fiberglass. it has no 'resonance' to dampen.

  Quick test to see if noise dampening material will help - pound on it with a closed fist. Slap it quicker and lighter also, you are trying to emulate road vibrations.  Does it have a dull thud? No dampening needed. Does it 'ring' or 'gong' at all? Or do the vibrations make something else 'buzz'? Dampen it.

Restoring my 2350, I found the noise(s) in the cab were all ceiling and top cabinet related. Only ONE of 8 screws were seated correctly attaching the cutaway roof to the cabinets - had a horrible noise sometimes right above the passenger head.  I upgraded the screws with carriage bolts... After firmly re-attaching the cabinets to the original roof, I am VERY pleased with the lack of noise on the highway. The 'creak-creak' it used to have going over rough terrain slowly is gone also.  heartshower

Doing the cockpit floor with dampening material made a big difference also. My coach is 'airplane' quiet on the road now.
10
General Discussion / Re: Window Glaze
« Last post by Volkemon on April 25, 2019, 05:00:19 am »
Thank you, CalCruiser!  I did see that website but was hoping for cheaper since I probably need to do all of them.  Lot less expensive than water damage though, I will look into a sample kit and quick fix to hold the one until I get the parts.

The window ''glazing' on the RV windows is a trim item, not a seal. The pulling away at the corners is unsightly, but doesn't let water in. At least not yet on my 2006...

Found another source for seals also,  http://www.parkin-acc.com/page53.html

I am also in line for the glazing. Going to paint the frames and dividers 'trim black' and use black glazing to update the look.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10