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1
General Discussion / Re: AC Issue
« Last post by Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 06:49:17 pm »
 (WH)  Dunno. I know what was there, and was 110V.  Kissimmee / St Cloud Fl c1992-8. Houses subdivided into apartments. Guessing 60's to 80's construction? No central HVAC.  Huge older window shakers. They had the odd plug so they only worked with that outlet.  We had a Sears one.  2o2   18,000 btu IIRC, but that was MANY beers and several years ago...  :)(:


My plasma cuter uses the 220v 20a you picture, familiar with that. 
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2018 model 2552 for sale, a 2018 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk rigged up to tow can be included. 
17,000 miles on the coach and 40,000 on the Jeep.
Lower body paint.
Electric awning.
Premium convenience package.
Power 80" sliding bed drivers side.
6 way power drivers seat.
HWH leveling jacks.
Leather sofa instead of dinette.
Surround sound with DVD player.
Insulated glass.
Mirror with compass.
Back up monitor.
Two 150 watt solar panels with upgraded Bogart Engineering solar controller and battery monitor.
Surge protector.
2 max air fans.
Magna shades.
Safe t plus steering stabilizer.
Chassis window tint.

Asking price is $110,000 add another $20,000 to add the Jeep.
Please contact
Gary Frens
269-993-0564 (cell)
gandcf1984@gmail.com
3
General Discussion / Re: AC Issue
« Last post by BlueBlaze on November 14, 2019, 01:00:14 pm »
Actually, THIS is the "one you plug the A/C into".  It's a 20amp 220V recepticle.  Note the horizontal hot-side blade.  Whatever you do, do NOT plug your PC into a plug that looks like that one!

I've never heard of running a special 20a 110v circuit just for a window unit.  110v window units usually don't pull 20 amps.  I guess someone could wire a dedicated 20am circuit for a 110v window unit if they wanted to.  But the whole reason they even make 110v window units is so you don't need a dedicated circuit to plug it in.

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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
« Last post by Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 12:13:57 pm »
Sweet! PC leads the way again.


I will post my valve mod to the kit.  I wish to leave the supply hose installed on the camper, and also to change it to the 'handwheel' external tank connection.



I really want a 'tool free' external tank hookup. Having to carry 3 wrenches and remove the hose for travel is a no-go in my book.  (7/16 and backing wrench to remove/install hose, 7/8 wrench to connect hose to external tank) 
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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
« Last post by mikeh on November 14, 2019, 11:46:00 am »


But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves.

Might just note for the record that Phoenix offers this kit as a build option on new units--the kit they installed on mine was a Camco, but looks identical to the unit that Volkemon installed.  I believe the installed Phoenix option was about $160 or so.  It includes the long hose to feed a gas grill or other propane appliance and the short hose to feed from an auxiliary LP source to the RV.  I haven't had occasion to use mine yet, but definitely wanted the capability.

Mike
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General Discussion / Re: AC Issue
« Last post by Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 07:32:16 am »
A household 20amp receptacle/plug have the 2 power carrying blades at right angles to each other.  15amp blades are parallel to each other.

See attached pictures of 20amp "household" plug and socket.    Normal household duplex outlets are rated at 15amp although I have seen where people have replaced the 15amp breaker with a 20amp breaker.  Which is not a safe practice.

Don, that's really only true of newer homes.  The T-shaped 20 amp plug is a fairly recent addition.  For many years, the same recep was used on both 20 and 15amp 110 volt circuits.  You really need to check the breaker box to determine the amperage of a given circuit in most homes, but as a former electrician, I can give you some hints.  Kitchen, bathroom, utility room, and garage circuits are normally 20 amps, and many local codes even limit them further to two recepticles per circuit. Outside GFI receps are also a pretty good bet because they are often the same 20amp GFI circuit that also feeds a bathroom or kitchen.



FWIW, this was the type of receptacle that we had for the 20 amp service, and known as "The one you can plug the AC into" plug.  :lol  It was on its own circuit, and near the window. Might be a 'Florida Thang'.The larger window shaker AC's had a plug that one side was vertical, one horizontal. You could use the outlet for either 15 or 20, but only use the AC in that outlet.  I think todays window AC's are a lot more efficient and use regular 15A plugs.
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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
« Last post by Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 07:25:07 am »
To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat.

On my 2006 2350, they are above the stove like Rons, in the vent hood.  Ergo ""kitchen hood propane meter.""     I never did check to see if it was accurate as far as full -  1/2 - Empty   (thinking on it, might be 1/3 - 2/3 etc... whateveah...)

 From a memory of installing a home unit for indoor LP tank meter reading, I seem to remember you can rotate the sending unit to calibrate to 'empty'...but that may have been specific to that unit.  More research needed.

But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves. The exchange tanks are available in a amazing number of places. Pretty sure I am going to make a 2-tank holder for the trailer to carry my spares.    But WOW... not such a pressing issue with the leaks solved. I never would have DREAMED of 3-4 weeks of fridge with the onboard tank before. Thanks for that input Ron!
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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on November 14, 2019, 06:51:33 am »
To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat. It shows propane, fresh water, black tank and grey tank. As Ron stated for the propane, these are not known to be accurate but they are handy for a quick check in non critical conditions.
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General Discussion / Re: 2552 RV Cover
« Last post by jim.godfrey on November 13, 2019, 09:41:16 pm »
Hi Folks: Received my Goldline cover today,
Although I have no idea if it will fit my PC :), it sure looks like a well made cover.
Comes in a nice duffel bag, straps and hardware look much nicer than the standard covers I have had before.
The material is a sturdy cloth, (claims to be waterproof), the seams all have double stitching about a 1/4 apart and the zippers look to be of good quality with fabric behind them.
Overall very pleased with the quality. Even comes with some patch material should the need arise.
One thing to note, there does not appear to be any type of lining at least in the part I could see. So the sturdy material is in direct contact with the paint.
Not sure I like this but I suppose if it was a problem they would not be so popular.

Will update when I get to put it on the PC but I am holding off a bit hoping for some Indian Summer so I can get the PC out once or twice more before she goes into hibernation.  :'(
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General Discussion / Re: AC Issue
« Last post by BlueBlaze on November 13, 2019, 08:03:54 pm »
A household 20amp receptacle/plug have the 2 power carrying blades at right angles to each other.  15amp blades are parallel to each other.

See attached pictures of 20amp "household" plug and socket.    Normal household duplex outlets are rated at 15amp although I have seen where people have replaced the 15amp breaker with a 20amp breaker.  Which is not a safe practice.

Don, that's really only true of newer homes.  The T-shaped 20 amp plug is a fairly recent addition.  For many years, the same recep was used on both 20 and 15amp 110 volt circuits.  You really need to check the breaker box to determine the amperage of a given circuit in most homes, but as a former electrician, I can give you some hints.  Kitchen, bathroom, utility room, and garage circuits are normally 20 amps, and many local codes even limit them further to two recepticles per circuit. Outside GFI receps are also a pretty good bet because they are often the same 20amp GFI circuit that also feeds a bathroom or kitchen. 
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