We were getting just a small amount of surface rust on the door frame where it is welded to the body of the motorhome.  We went out and bought some rustoleum in a GLOSSY WHITE color, cleaned the area and painted with a light coat of the rustoleum.  All looks good now and hopefully we will prevent any rust from taking over that area. 

The glossy white was a decent match, not perfect, but since we keep it covered with a small mat only we will know it was repainted.

Sue

With my 2007 2350, the only serious area of rust is the back side of the metal door-entry step.  When you look up from below (use a large mirror and light if you have to) that metal box that forms the entry step appears completely unprotected.  I need to do something with mine before it gets out of control.

Barry-Sue
I wonder if that is the same rust you are battling.  Maybe it has come through from the back side.  Maybe the real solution is sealing the back side to stop it from bleading to the visible side.

I sprayed the stair box with rust sealer spray and then covered it with 3/8 closed cell adhesive foil backed insulation.  This insulation really helped with road noise coming up thru and I am sure it helps with heat/cold.  Very inexpensive and looks really nice when complete.

I sprayed the stair box with rust sealer spray and then covered it with 3/8 closed cell adhesive foil backed insulation.  This insulation really helped with road noise coming up thru and I am sure it helps with heat/cold.  Very inexpensive and looks really nice when complete.

The only concern with the adhesive insulation would be for returning rust without knowing it.  But I like the sound deadener idea.

I wish I had some left over POR-15 but it is so expensive and I need so little.  That is ideal for stop-rust, then insulate over it.

Barry-Sue
I wonder if that is the same rust you are battling.  Maybe it has come through from the back side.  Maybe the real solution is sealing the back side to stop it from bleading to the visible side.

No Ron, it is not from the back side of the metal door entry step.  It is just from the overspray of the welding process when they put the door frame together.  It is right at the corner on the front of the step.  

We used chassis saver to handle any of those areas that are prone to rust.

The box you speak about behind the steps up underneath .... our 2013 2350 is solid rust. Didn't seem like the company we picked it up from cleaned it up and we had rust in the tail pipe and some corrisive areas from what I am assuming is salt from the vehicle coming from up north ?
I read something somewhere on the blog about something clear that takes care of the rust and protects it, or did I just dream it ?

I would like to take care of it asap butu not sure what to use.

Carol,

We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue

We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue

Sue that sounds about right.

I used POR-15 (it's black) on my pickup truck frame with the cargo bed removed.  A little got on my skin through a hole in a rubber glove.  I think it finally went away after 6 weeks.  My skin had to shed for it to go away.  It would not come off otherwise.

My little 1996 Ford Ranger truck sees Chicago salty winters, and I never wash it.  I used POR-15 on it's badly rusted frame 4 years ago and most of the frame is still well protected.  I did bang off the loose rust before application.

I'll have to check out your chassis saver since POR-15 is not easily found in stores around town.

Thanks Sue ... I could not believe how bad it looks. Vince pressure washed the underneath of the rv yesterday but we really need to treat it .... do you have to do anything to the existing rust first or just paint right on it ?
Carol

Carol,

We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue

Carol,

We have used chassis saver to take care of any rust on the frame.  This is a link http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
It is similar to por-15.

It is not clear.  It comes in a couple of shades of black and a silver color.  Not cheap and you have to be "VERY" careful when you use it because it will bond to anything--including skin.  But the benefits are it does bond the rust and thus stop it from speading further.

We bought it at a local auto store in our area.

We used it first on our battery tray and it looks brand new.  I think we bought an 8 ounce can for $30.

Sue

Carol,

Such products say to just paint right over the rust, but I advise to remove loose flaking rust.  Quickly going over rust with coarse sand paper would be adequate.  I consider it critical for the metal to be clean of road grime, salt and also to be dry.  It never hurts to wipe the area with laquer thinner or rubbing alcohol to remove rust dust and any oil, though not an absolute requirement unless condition is excessive.

Carol,
   Chassis Saver should be applied to clean sandblasted steel or right over tightly adhering rust and scale.  So we made sure we cleaned and had a somewhat rough surface.  If it is over a smooth surface you have to use an etching primer or sandpaper to get it somewhat rough.  But the parts under the RV that need protection just need to be cleaned and have no loose rust.

   Another word of caution is that if it is exposed to direct sunlight it will lose its gloss and turn a dull almost grayish black.  The silver color will not change much.

   We used the black and since it is not exposed to direct sunlight it looks like the day we put it on.  Just cover yourself well before applying it and don't splatter anything on your skin or anything you do not want permanently painted.

Sue

I'm about to tackle the entry door rust problem.  Reading the posts made here most of my questions were answered. I am wondering if the screen door can be removed so that I can clean and repair the whole step at once.

Bill

I Like The Way You Think.   

Come on Bill--Cough it up! We agree with Barry and Sue--a 2450 would look real smart in Massachusetts!!!!!

Judi

Barry opened up a can of worms.
Got to thinking , not only a new screen door.
New Tires....I need 6 new tires.
New Batteries.
Nice wood floor vs. Tiled
More Room
Power Awning vs Crank it out

And she could be all dressed and ready for PEI in August.  Maybe I'll ask Karen to go and get that  knee replacement done early.....I'll ask her just as they put her under cuz that's only way I might have  a chance.