The only difference is the distance between the coils. I admit I don't understand how the E150 can have everything identical minus the varying distance between the coils, making them a lower-rated spring with a softer ride.
I am considering the pig tails as part of a full turn......I count 9.5 turns on the new Moog coils, but the spec HERE says 10. Maybe they round-up.My originals, I count a full 9 turns.I am not worried about disassembly. Everything always comes apart nicely because there is no corrosion on the rig. I changed the shocks last year and the old ones unscrewed off just fine. No need to cut them off as is the usual practice. I wanted to disassemble them to take pictures for comparison purposes.
Yes you and I are both arm chair coil spring engineers. Let us hope nobody else reads this thread seriously until "after" we are done with our front coil spring replacements, hopefully with great results to share with the PC community. You and I are taking different coil spring replacement approaches trying to address much of the same. Your focus is more on lowering the front through custom-made springs to get a specific height. My pursuit is an out-of-box approach to soften the ride up front with hopes of also lowering the front by whatever it gives me.
Not me! Before I put the work into it I would LOVE it if someone with the proper knowledge chimed in. PLEASE.
Ron,I would strongly suggest you keep the old springs so you can have them re-installed if and when you sell your PC. Modifications the affect the load capacity and steering geometry (lowered front end) can create a liability for you should that change cause an injury or accident.Just sayin'Your choice. Don
Ron - you may get lucky with those e-150 aftermarket progressive springs because the e-350 Super Duty has a much larger, heavier engine. Progressive dual-rate springs act like a 2-stage suspension. The lighter (tightly spaced) coils compress first until touching before the stiffer (widely spaced) coils compress under more extreme conditions, resulting in a softer ride without compromising handling and braking too much.Because pure lowering springs are significantly shorter, they also have to be much stiffer to prevent bottoming out, resulting in a much harsher ride.Custom spring manufactures measure true ride height between the wheel center and fender lip to eliminate wheel and tire size variables. But you wonít find any data for an e-150 with a 6.8 engine swap anyway, so go for it . You may want to test drive it and then let it settle inside the bat cave for a few weeks before aligning, just in case the new springs sag, then measure it again periodically after putting on some miles.Hereís a better explanation from a real engineer - the last paragraph may be of particular interest 😎https://www.hypercoils.com/tech-tips/linear-vs-progressive-rate-suspension-springs/
Because pure lowering springs are significantly shorter, they also have to be much stiffer to prevent bottoming out, resulting in a much harsher ride.WRONG. They dont have to be stiffer. A custom spring manufacturer can tailor the spring rate regardless of the wheel travel. You DO indeed run closer to the bump stop when you lower the ride height below stock, reducing suspension travel. Bump stops are trimmed in extreme lowering cases. They can make the ride as hard or as soft as you want in roughly 15% increments of spring rate. In my application, being that the ride height starts out higher than the stock cutaway height, the wheel travel should be close to stock after i lower it. Custom spring manufactures measure true ride height between the wheel center and fender lip to eliminate wheel and tire size variables.Not mine, as this is a custom spring. He was interested in the height reduction I wanted, ground to fender lip. This spring is not being made to fit a bunch of cars where the wheels could be a variable. It is being custom made for one vehicle. Heck, he is even making one side 1/2 taller to accommodate my non-factory added weight. But you wonít find any data for an e-150 with a 6.8 engine swap anyway, so go for it . You may want to test drive it and then let it settle inside the bat cave for a few weeks before aligning, just in case the new springs sag, then measure it again periodically after putting on some miles.TRUE! Wont find much data for a E350 with the RV weight added..with or without slide, etc either. But that data is only really valuable to the 'shadetree' who is trying to fit one model part onto another. My custom spring maker has the data for the springs that were factory fitted on my coach. He can use this data to reconfigure a set of specs for my desires. Then he has a machine that pre-stresses the spring , putting it though many cycles to almost coil bind to ensure the springs have their 'set'. Then each spring is put on another machine to ensure the spring rate and resting height are still accurate. If not, they make another.